Atikin9000 Posted November 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 $50 for a block off plate with a tap for a pcv sound right? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 Buy a tap for $8 that matches the PCV valve. That aluminum is soft so a pair of vice-grips will turn a tap. Turn in back off, turn in, back off. Clear the chips away and continue at about 1/16 of a turn at a time. Wrap the PCV threads with plumber's tape if worried. Pick the crap out of those two ERG holes and fill with $5 worth of JB weld. Remove those two studs and fill them with the left over JB if you like....and.... you're done. It's not the almost $40 saved it's doing the job yourself and saying "Hell it was easy, want me to do yours?" and not saying "All I did was bolted on a pre-made block off plate" Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 I am kinda baffled about this engine, what year is the engine? What year did they connect the intake manifold to the exhaust manifold? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 All L20B from '75 ('74 on the 610) through '77. Starting in '78 it returned to (I think) the better coolant cooled/warmed intake with the exhaust separated. I converted my U67 head to run coolant into a '79 intake. I like it better. This also allowed me to use an L16 cast iron header. I really like that a lot! Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 Thankyou, for some reason I thought something else. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted November 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 I just searched for Solex 26 and the pics I found show a completely different carb. Did you google 34 DGEC? Compare those pics with the carb you have. Or post more pics. More pics, tried to clean it up a bit and still no markings. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted November 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 Mike so what you’re saying forget the plate and just tap into the manifold, sounds easy enough. I cleaned those crap holes. As for the studs, how would i go about getting them out. I tried to lock to nuts on the threads but I might be doing it wrong lol. Also did some other cleaning today, took your advice and took the intake to a car wash. Also no more cab leaks. Floors on this thing are super sad. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 I don't see one single place where WEBER or a W is cast into that carb. Stickers are nothing. Weber carbs say to look for Weber cast into the body or maybe Made In Spain. This is not the 38/38 but all have to be stamped where marked. 38mm DGES (Electric Choke)38mm DGAS (Water Choke)Both barrels open at onceFull Size ViewParts PageDiagram Guinuine Weber Carburetors made in Spain/Italy for the last 30+ years will have a Weber Logo cast into the body and be stamped Made in Spain . Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 How can you double nut wrong? Get them tight together and back that stud out. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 As you are removing anyway, just clamp vice-grips on. If all else fails hack saw them off or angle grinder. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted November 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 Maybe China Weber then? I just need base settings. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 Have u sent pictures of carb to pierce manifold? I noticed a serial number. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted November 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 I just searched for Solex 26 and the pics I found show a completely different carb. Did you google 34 DGEC? Compare those pics with the carb you have. Or post more pics. The 34 is the closest resemblance to what I have. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 China would have put the Weber logo on it. Mexican knock-off. Your earlier measurements appear to be 34mm. Not a 38 though. Wayno posted a real 38/38 above. Installing a brand new Weber was the best thing I ever did to a Datsun. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 China would have put the Weber logo on it. Mexican knock-off. Your earlier measurements appear to be 34mm. Not a 38 though. Wayno posted a real 38/38 above. Installing a brand new Weber was the best thing I ever did to a Datsun. Sorry Keith, it's a 32/36, but you could not really see enough to tell. It is really hard to get these photos, the camera doesn't like to focus really close, I took 8/9 photos to get the 2 above. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 Seeing the valves under, I can see 32/36 now. Geared linkage, or lack of, would be another giveaway. Someone gave me a 38 last year. If I had anything g more than an L16 I'd use it. For now, it just collects dust. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 The first two photos were to show the Weber in the case of the carb, but when you said 38/38 I went after the place of manufacture and model, you still cannot see the linkage side, it is just a regular Weber, nothing special. I would agree with the statement, "Installing a brand new Weber was the best thing I ever did to a Datsun", installing any new carb replacing one that is not working properly is going to be a dramatic improvement, I took that rebuilt 320 carb off the 320 that was not functioning properly and replaced it with a new Weber and the engine ran great once the idle mixture was set, the only thing that was more dramatic was taking that POS 320 distributor out and replacing it with an MG electronic ignition distributor, that was hands down the best thing I ever did to that engine so far, I wrote an article about it in the 320 section, what a difference that distributor made. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted November 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 This was short after I picked up the truck, running on 3.5 cylinders. Just thought I’d share it running, carb wasn’t junk so I have hope for it. Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 Most carb problems are caused by weak or irregular spark. High resistance plug wires, low grade switching device in the distributor like a Pertronix, high resistance spark plugs, improper advance curve for the fuel or the compression, wrong voltage input to the coil, wrong coil, etc... Then again, a knock-off Weber has its own set of issues like improper fuel metering at any rpm due to flawed ports in the casting. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 This was short after I picked up the truck, running on 3.5 cylinders. Just thought I’d share it running, carb wasn’t junk so I have hope for it. Carb won't affect one cylinder. Clean replace plugs/points. Bad plug may indicate the cylinder. Check/set valve lash Check/set timing If no improvement, compression check to find the low cylinder. Maybe cut to the chase and do first. Might be head gasket, burnt valve or broken piston even but you still need to check the first three above. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 I found a ton more info on the "Solex 34 34" than the Weber 34 DGEC. It appears to be a rebranded Solex carb, some were made in China, some in Spain, and were OEM on Fiats. Here's a link to some propoganda (unsubstantiated info) - http://genuineweber.blogspot.com/ And I found an exploded pic too, but I'll upload that after I drop the kids off at school. Link - https://www.google.com/search?biw=1680&bih=910&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=x30EWtiSOIyLjwSz1p6wDg&q=solex+34+34&oq=solex+34+&gs_l=psy-ab.1.8.0l7j0i8i30k1j0i30k1l2.405119.405119.0.409417.1.1.0.0.0.0.139.139.0j1.1.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..0.1.138....0.xnpVMtRe4qk#imgrc=HRqEHP53ymGsEM: Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 That make sense/\..when I first saw his carb, it looked like a 38/38 but looked small...all these fakes...so will the real slim shady please stand up. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted November 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 Carb won't affect one cylinder. Clean replace plugs/points. Bad plug may indicate the cylinder. Check/set valve lash Check/set timing If no improvement, compression check to find the low cylinder. Maybe cut to the chase and do first. Might be head gasket, burnt valve or broken piston even but you still need to check the first three above. This is an old video, I haven’t put anything back together yet. Quote Link to comment
Atikin9000 Posted November 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 Picked up a piece of 1/8” thick aluminum flat bar, 3 feet. Gonna attempt at a block off plate, went with aluminum cause I got a hand saw and a battery powered drill. I can already foresee comments about aluminum. I’ll go back and get steel but wondering if I can get away with it, it’s fairly thick. Quote Link to comment
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