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What timing covers fit the l-16


fisch

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Ugh, so I was a day away from firing up the 510 wagon when the water port on the timing cover broke. Literally cracked the timing cover. Coolent everywhere.  The pipe outlet was the one thing the PO put on that I didn't check, and he used really short bolts, which maybe helped break it under torque. But I was only at like 11 Ft lbs.

 

 What timing covers fit the l-16? I think the L-18 will but not the l20b. But what about the L-24 and l-28?

 

Tried to google it but couldn't find a cross reference.

 

I've never done a timing cover, but I don't think I have to pull the engine. One step forward 100 steps back.

 

21368677_10212578077800163_6706600811224

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Wow that sucks, you have a time consuming job ahead of you now.

I never use a torque wrench on anything except the head, mains, and rod bolts and don't normally have issues.

 

Wish I had a cover for you but they all got tossed, no L16s around my place anymore, I can think of a way of repairing that, but it is temporary back yard shit using high tack adhesive and a stud not a bolt.

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OH man that alot of work just for a cheap water outlet

 

11pounds is about right!!!!!!!!! not much needed on alumunum. if it dont leak . If leaks then I tighten a little more.

 

watch my vid

break cam crank bol then set to TDC and pull dizzy ans oil pump lower oil pan w/o breaking oil pan gasket ect......

 

Good luck , thats a nice wagon dont let it go to shit

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L16, L18, L24, L26 and L28

 

L20B is taller

 

 

You can drop the oil pan down enough to give you room to pull the timing cover without pulling the head.

 

Ugh. You know I knew things were going too well. It is usually two steps forward one step back. Lately it has been like 20 steps forward, no steps back. So I guess it caught up to me.

 

So as long as the oil pan gasket doesn't tear, I can reuse it and not remove it all the way? I'd assumed the whole pan had to come off and new gasket. That would save me at least one step.

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11pounds is about right!!!!!!!!! not much needed on alumunum. if it dont leak . If leaks then I tighten a little more.

This is what happened. I was filling the coolent, it started leaking from where the pipe joins. I tightened to 11ft lbs. Heard a 'Tink' sound. Suddenly wouldn't tighten at all, lol.  And I watched your vid to get as far as I did. And will again.  THe bolt the PO had in there was so short I don't think it engaged 5 threads. I am guessing by the way it broke that is why?

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Looks like there are a few threads left. I would clean and de-grease and JB weld it. Only the smallest dab on the broken surfaces as it will squeeze out. Put extra on the outside of the crack as it hardens. Measure the depth of the thread and get the longest bolt that will fit properly and grease it so any JB won't stick to it. Put a nice thick gasket on (with a smear of RTV both sides) and bolt it together but don't tighten the bottom bolt, just finger tight. This will hold it together while it cures. In the morning back it out and carefully tighten it. The RTV will seal it even with reduced clamping pressure. The other bolt will be plenty.

 

Worth a try.

 

 

Cause? I tightened a thermostat cover on once (a chev 6 cylinder) and the gasket was home made and the hole for the bolt wasn't really wide enough. The bolt drew some of the gasket in with it and the bolt got tight but I could see that it still had room to go. It snapped and I was a 13 year old noob..

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Looks like there are a few threads left. I would clean and de-grease and JB weld it. Only the smallest dab on the broken surfaces as it will squeeze out. Put extra on the outside of the crack as it hardens. Measure the depth of the thread and get the longest bolt that will fit properly and grease it so any JB won't stick to it. Put a nice thick gasket on (with a smear of RTV both sides) and bolt it together but don't tighten the bottom bolt, just finger tight. This will hold it together while it cures. In the morning back it out and carefully tighten it. The RTV will seal it even with reduced clamping pressure. The other bolt will be plenty.

 

Worth a try.

 

 

Cause? I tightened a thermostat cover on once (a chev 6 cylinder) and the gasket was home made and the hole for the bolt wasn't really wide enough. The bolt drew some of the gasket in with it and the bolt got tight but I could see that it still had room to go. It snapped and I was a 13 year old noob..

 

I would use a stud that is bottomed out, once it has cured the stud likely will not even move anymore.

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Well that would certainly save me time. I was worried I'd always question it if I didn't do it right. Driving down the road, thinking 'what if...'. But man I don't want to change the timing cover, and I don't know how much pressure that fixture is really taking. Could be fine.

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Fixes like what I mentioned either work or they don't work, the ones that work tend to be forever, especially with how much work changing a timing cover is.

I would try the stud right now and see if it works, if it doesn't you likely can have another cover on the way and plan for everything needed to change out the cover, it's a big job, I can change out a transmission faster/easier.

I didn't think of JB weld, that might be better, I have never used JB weld so I really have no opinion about that.

Oh, and make sure the stud is the proper length, too short or too long may cause problems.

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21368677_10212578077800163_6706600811224

 

Lets say that hole is 1 1/4" across. The area is 1.22 sq inch. Rad pressure maxes out at the rad cap release pressure of about 13 PSI. So that inlet only has less than 16 pounds outward pressure on it. A bowling ball. Half a cinder block. Two newborn babies. 

.

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The thing that would concern me is not the 1/5 of the gasket surface that broke off, but the irregular break that extends into the cavity where a gasket won't touch.  Since it's a clean break, I'd probably opt to JB weld it, making sure to get a thin coating all the way to the edges so that it won't seep behind the gasket area.  I'd run a greased stud in as it appears that thread matching is critical, and use a spacer or whatever was needed to get a good bond.  Then, when it cured, burnish the sealing surface and check the glue joint on the inside for pinholes or voids, and reapply as necessary.  Granted, it's a bit more time consuming, and I would opt for using a stud for that particular mount, if clearance allows.

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