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Home Built Z 'Full video build'


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I'm not sure if you have tried this or not, but when I'm wrapping wiring with electrical tape, i wrap it in two layers.  I wrap the first layer inside out, sticky side out.  Then i wrap the second layer normally, sticking the two sticky sides together.  This creates a vinyl tube for the wiring.

 

I prefer this for two reasons.  

 

1) when you need to pull a wire, you can because it's not stuck anywhere.

 

2)if you ever need to go back in, you don't have that disgusting black tar all over the wiring that makes the whole job super miserable.

 

In reality, i wrap the two at the same time using two rolls of electrical tape.  I will start both layers then wrap a few inches of inner, then wrap the outer to catch up.

 

Still loving the videos.

 

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1 hour ago, Lockleaf said:

I'm not sure if you have tried this or not, but when I'm wrapping wiring with electrical tape, i wrap it in two layers.  I wrap the first layer inside out, sticky side out.  Then i wrap the second layer normally, sticking the two sticky sides together.  This creates a vinyl tube for the wiring.

 

I prefer this for two reasons.  

 

1) when you need to pull a wire, you can because it's not stuck anywhere.

 

2)if you ever need to go back in, you don't have that disgusting black tar all over the wiring that makes the whole job super miserable.

 

In reality, i wrap the two at the same time using two rolls of electrical tape.  I will start both layers then wrap a few inches of inner, then wrap the outer to catch up.

 

Still loving the videos.

 

I like that idea, I have never heard of it before but it absolutely makes sense. I will give it a go.

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On 2/20/2019 at 5:10 PM, Lockleaf said:

I'm not sure if you have tried this or not, but when I'm wrapping wiring with electrical tape, i wrap it in two layers.  I wrap the first layer inside out, sticky side out.  Then i wrap the second layer normally, sticking the two sticky sides together.  This creates a vinyl tube for the wiring.

 

 

 

Interesting.  I use harness tape which is made for wrapping looms.  You can unwrap a bundle, then wrap it right back up again.  I use a TINY piece of black tape at the very end of the wrap which is easily removed for any service needs.  

 

When I did my wagon, the PO used electrical tape on the entire harness which was a disaster to deal with..

 

 

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2 hours ago, Tedman said:

Hey Jeff, 

I like the stripes!  Scroll to the bottom of this page to see a similar stripe scheme on a 260Z Official Pace Car.  Perhaps this was your inspiration?  BTW- Yours looks better. ?

http://zhome.com/Racing/PaceCars.htm

Keep up the great work!

 

That original design was actually done by Peter Brock for his BRE race cars.

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With the key on you should be able to trace power to that oil pressure switch, but not out of it.  If that is the case, turn off key, unplug both wires from oil pressure switch and put a jumper wire across them.  That should kick the pump on with the key if you wired it all up correctly.  Then you can undo the jumper and plug back to pressure switch so it functions how you designed it.

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Congrats on the start up man!  That feeling of satisfaction you get when a huge project like this comes together is a major part of the reason I love playing with cars.  

 

I completely understand your frustration with the wiring.  I have a '71 510 (Half Pint in my signature if you're interested) with an 80's nissan truck motor in it, and my wiring was mostly gone when I got the car, so I used the complete wiring harness from the truck as well.  Integrating that harness with the factory 510 switches (headlight, wiper, blower motor) and also with the wiring to the back half of the car took FOREVER.  All sorts of crazy little things I had to track down.

Edited by Lockleaf
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You improved the seats 100 fold!  Very nice work.

 

I must admit i was hoping the boot would be diamond stitch as well. But i can also see that being overboard.

 

My 510 had the same headlight switch issue.  I rewired mine to use a 70s Chevy floor mounted foot switch for the headlights.  I used 2 pins, to connect or disconnect the ground side of the circuit.

 

This is from my thread:

 

My high beam switch doesn't work. The turn signals work fine, but that switch doesn't.

 

So I decided to work around that problem. Chevy style.

 

20160712_130809_zpshokwdjzq.jpg

 

Floor mount headlight dimmer switch. Cheap and readily available. I don't think I could say either of those things about replacing the factory turn signal/headlight switch (but maybe I'm wrong).

 

Depinned one of the three pins. I only need two.

 

20160712_130825_zpssfrzjxzy.jpg

 

It's all wired in, tested and functional. Just need to mount it to the car. About here seems good.

 

20160712_133830_zps1sylcjjk.jpg

 

I love these floor mounted switches actually, so I'm ok with doing this mod. However, the way I wired it in, should I ever repair the column switch, I can use either one functionally, so long as the other is set to "open", which in this harness means set to high beams.

 

Progress!

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