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Just bought a 521


mainer311

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So the easiest thing to do then, is to just disconnect the wire going to the retarded set of points, that way it never retards. (I don't even know if that system still works.) Hell, I can even just let the second set "live" in the distributor and use them as a spare.

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So the easiest thing to do then, is to just disconnect the wire going to the retarded set of points, that way it never retards. (I don't even know if that system still works.) Hell, I can even just let the second set "live" in the distributor and use them as a spare.

 

Is that a blue/yellow wire? 

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Yup, black/yellow and blue/yellow. The blue/yellow wire disappears into the wiring harness well past the coil. The return line to the coil is actually blue/white. Where the relay resides is beyond me, but it doesn’t appear to be in the engine compartment. There is a blue/white wire on a 3-wire connector that travels down the trans tunnel and back to the rear of the truck, but it’s hard to say if that’s the right one.

 

The black/yellow wire goes directly from the advanced points to the coil. No surprises there, since it’s always active.

 

sQ5vT6i.jpg

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Yup, you’re right, I overlooked it yesterday.

 

This morning I rebuilt my dizzy. Cleaned the weights and springs, blasted out the breaker plate, lubed everything up, and reassembled. Pulled the retard points out and removed the indexing plate that they sit on. I actually pulled the advanced points out because they looked horrible, and put the barely used retard points in their place. Set to .020”. Next up was the coil. I replaced the stock coil with a 3 ohm Pertronix flamethrower, then bypassed the ballast. The only weak link right now is the points themselves. I don’t know how long they’ll last with a full 12V coil now.

 

Later today I’ll gap the plugs a little bit wider. Was thinking .040”.

 

I’ll just carry some spare points with me now until I switch over to EI.

 

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I hear that.... I hope to go stainless too in the end.... my biggest problem was the flange bolts were so rotted i didn't want to disturb it.....

Things like this and that dizzy clamp idea really make we wish I had a milling machine and lathe in my garage.....

I love making things but my tools limit me...

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My flange botls are rusted to all hell.  PO had a new exhaust put on but they just cut the existing one (south of the flange) and welded on a new section because I assume they couldn't get those flange bolts out.   As of now my manifold and exhaust are all one loooong piece.  :(  Would love another flange so that I at least have options. 

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You all know them studs come out, they are threaded in there.

What you do to get them out is heat the exhaust manifold around the stud/what is left of the stud(not the stud itself) till it is glowing orange, then you hit the side of the manifold with a good sized hammer close to the stud in one or two spots then grab the stud or what is left of the stud with a pair of vice grips and turn it out, it will come out easy, let it cool, chase the threads with a tap and thread in new studs, if your going to do one do them all and start with fresh studs/nuts.

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A lot of exhaust woes lately. I also found that the muffler had a large hole in the bottom of it (not the weep hole, bigger) and the piping was leaking at the joints. Cut the whole thing off and installed a larger Thrush glasspacked muffler with a downturn right above the axle. It sounds pretty good, and only cost me about $45 for all the stuff.

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You all know them studs come out, they are threaded in there.

What you do to get them out is heat the exhaust manifold around the stud/what is left of the stud(not the stud itself) till it is glowing orange, then you hit the side of the manifold with a good sized hammer close to the stud in one or two spots then grab the stud or what is left of the stud with a pair of vice grips and turn it out, it will come out easy, let it cool, chase the threads with a tap and thread in new studs, if your going to do one do them all and start with fresh studs/nuts.

 

Do you by chance know what the thread size is?

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So, this just happened.

 

bSa61vi.jpg

 

I removed the down pipe from the manifold and took a look at the studs. They’re shot. No surprise there. The interface between the flanges is pretty shitty too, and that’s probably why it was leaking. Found that the studs are impossible to get to when they’re in the truck, and can’t get the manifold off w/o dismantling the intake as well. Looks like I’m going to be tackling a list of things all at once while I’m in here.

 

Anyone know what the thread size is of the EGR tubes on the manifold? I want to plug them up.

 

V2LTvu1.jpg

 

PywmS0r.jpg

 

Hit list:

Replace small coolant hose on inlet to intake manifold.

Plug exhaust manifold.

Plug intake manifold on the back port.

Replace down pipe studs.

Replace all M8 hardware.

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