Just bought a 521

[datzenmike]

I had an L20B in my 521 and there was no hood clearance problems with the valve cover or the stock air filter housing at all using the L16 engine brackets and isolators.

[mrbigtanker]

3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

I had an L20B in my 521 and there was no hood clearance problems with the valve cover or the stock air filter housing at all using the L16 engine brackets and isolators.

Yes forgot about brackets as well. I had the 2.3 stroker and it cleared as well with the L16 brackets

 

[mainer311]

I'm using the L16 brackets. Everything was swapped over to the L20b.

[datzenmike]

I've noticed that some rubber isolators are a lot thicker than others.

 

Did the L20B have engine brackets on it? Even a slight chance they may have gotten mixed up?

 

 

Well if absolutely sure and still a clearance problem there is another way to add clearance.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I've noticed that too. Didn't used to be that way, but starting a couple years ago, I've seen people posting pics of their engines with huge, thick motor mounts. Aftermarket? Or possibly a new source of OEM parts that aren't entirely accurate?

[mainer311]

521 mounts are NLA. You’re probably seeing 620 mounts, which are an abomination. Super thick and won’t work.

 

My L20b shortblock didn’t include brackets, so it’s something else. 

[Tucson620]

Went through this awhile back when my old engine mounts needed replacing. My 521 hood is pretty rough and supports are sagging. When I adapted a stock-appearing air cleaner to a Weber, it created hood clearance problems.

 

Ended up buying all the "521" mounts offered on RockAuto - they are all thick ugly 620 mounts. See below. For the moment, am using a universal motor mount I found at Speedway Motors - intended for V8s I think. It's got a fatter 1/2" stud and is way to stiff for the 4 cylinder motor.

 

Original 521 mount filthy left. 3 flavors of 620 mounts to right.  The right/left indications for 620 mounts are a mess too - some say both sides, some say R/L only, etc. The middle one (no label) was another brand offered as for both sides - but basically same as EM-2533.

Edited January 19, 2023 by Tucson620

[mainer311]

Nice. Does the speedway mount drop right in?

[Tucson620]

1 hour ago, mainer311 said:

Nice. Does the speedway mount drop right in?

Ratsun close. As I recall, the frame mount holes were close to on-center, I think drilled out a bit. And the stud is fatter, so drilled out my 521 engine mounts.

 

As mentioned, the speedway mounts are very stiff and transmit more noise/vibration. But dropped the engine a little from the stock mount, and approx. 5/16" from the fat 620 mount . Specs are here: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Square-Rubber-Engine-Motor-Mount-Pads,1181.html

Edited January 19, 2023 by Tucson620

[mainer311]

Awesome, thanks. I’m handy with a drill and tap. 😉

[mrbigtanker]

6 hours ago, Tucson620 said:

Ratsun close. As I recall, the frame mount holes were close to on-center, I think drilled out a bit. And the stud is fatter, so drilled out my 521 engine mounts.

 

As mentioned, the speedway mounts are very stiff and transmit more noise/vibration. But dropped the engine a little from the stock mount, and approx. 5/16" from the fat 620 mount . Specs are here: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Square-Rubber-Engine-Motor-Mount-Pads,1181.html

Wow man good to know as if it will work in the 510's as well that would be great as a taller L20 has problems as well.

[iceman510]

OE 510 mounts are still available from Nissan.  I bought some last year.  Spriso buys them all the time for his SR20 conversions.  The aftermarket are generally thicker as noted in some posts above.

 

Also, you can buy banjo fittings with AN fitting ends.  Would have saved some dinking around.  Specially made for Webers too.  

 

 

[KELMO]

Nissan part # 11220-A3500.

I also bought a set around October of '21. They are installed but if you need measurements, let me know.

[mainer311]

10 hours ago, iceman510 said:

Also, you can buy banjo fittings with AN fitting ends.  Would have saved some dinking around.  Specially made for Webers too.  

 

 

In -4 size? I couldn’t find any.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Pegasus

[mainer311]

3 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Pegasus

Those won’t fit DCOE’s bub. They take special banjos with like a 16mm ID or something.

Edited January 21, 2023 by mainer311

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Don't call me Bub.

 

[iceman510]

On 1/20/2023 at 7:06 PM, mainer311 said:

In -4 size? I couldn’t find any.

 

You could be right.  I know I bought some -6 before.  As you guys discussed above, if the banjo is larger that makes it more unusual.

 

[mainer311]

14 minutes ago, iceman510 said:

 

You could be right.  I know I bought some -6 before.  As you guys discussed above, if the banjo is larger that makes it more unusual.

 

The “issue” is that the only 1/8 bspt to AN adapter I could find for the mechanical fuel pump comes in -4. And to keep things neat, I wanted to maintain -4 the entire way, instead of having some bunk adapter somewhere in the middle. I’m pretty happy with it. Hopefully no more leaks when things get hot.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

-4 is on the small side for duals, but only because everyone else on the planet runs -6. It will work just fine.

[mainer311]

Welp, I’m picking up another roadster on Monday. A 68 2000. She’s a basket case.

 

Edited January 28, 2023 by mainer311

[wayno]

I also bought a 1968 SRL311 and put the complete drivetrain in my 1967 SPL311, I sold the 68 with the R16 drivetrain and never missed it, the U20 engine is a major upgrade in my opinion, I am not floored going up freeway passes like I was with the R16/4spd, unfortunately I would rather drive my 521KC turbodiesel than the Roadster anymore, it is more comfortable and has more legroom than the early Roadsters.

 

One of the drawbacks anymore is U20 engine parts, they cost a lot of money.

[mainer311]

You’re right. It can be a fortune to rebuild them. I want to keep the U20/5 speed/rear end for myself and sell the rest of the parts to break even.

[mainer311]

Well, she’s rough. Definitely not a resto, but good drivetrain, and the rear quarters are in pretty good shape. Even came with fiberglass race fenders. Can’t save them all,