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Just bought a 521


mainer311

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Let me know what you do about getting through the firewall. Specifically where it’s threaded on the engine bay side. 
 

I had to hack together a b210 and 531 cable to get a working setup on mine.  I always wanted to do something else but not enough motivation as of late.  

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The easiest way to hold a cable through a firewall is to use the barrel adjuster supplied in the linkage kit, then a large OD washer on either side of the firewall, and another nut to hold it all in place.

 

A cleaner way is to weld a nut onto a large washer and glue that one on the inside of the cab so you don't need two people to tighten or adjust it.

 

Cleaner still is to weld up the hole and weld in a nut that accepts the barrel adjuster.

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Idk I struggled with mine (as you probably know) and in the end just cobbled it together.  I wanted to make it as cleaner but never was able to.  
 

mine gets hung up/sticks every so often and I have to apply more pressure to the gas pedal. It’s not always a smooth depress and I’ve never been able to figure it out. 

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If you look close at this pic, you can see that I just stuffed the housing of the throttle cable into the hole where the previous one was. It has worked fine like that since putting the new engine in. 
 

rXe8aZx.jpg

 

This new linkage is going to be different though. The cable entry is fairly high and close to the firewall, so I’ll need to put some strain relief loops in or something. 

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@d.p

 

Here’s what I did. I pulled the original ferrule off from the original throttle cable, and then drilled the crimped points out from the inside. Once that was done, it easily slid over the end of the new housing, and then I slid the original nut over the cable before installing. Cable tension kept the housing in place.

 

X3MpBAZ.jpg
 

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I like the 1 pc design as for some reason my Felpro intake gaskets the exhaust middle holes would eventually blow out . So I just pull the carb as a whole unit and rebolt back on.

 

just disconnected the cable. everything else is still set correctly for the carbs,meaning the throttle playes ect.

 

 

I had some 2 pc ones that a company sold as Italien Solexes just didnt want to mess with the funky linkage system hanging when taking it off.

 

but if your happy with your thats all that matters.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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I guess I never posted this, but I finished the AN lines to the DCOE’s. I bought some banjo blanks, turned some 4AN bungs down to size, welded them, and then turned them again. I then coated them with POR15 to fix the zinc that burned off during welding. 
 

hkElYBh.jpg

 

wvZRUxt.jpg
 

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This was the before shot:

5Vz92zE.jpg

Edited by mainer311
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9 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

oh  man that badass!!!!!!!

wonder if you can find a shorter trottle cable


The issue I have is that the rear exit of the linkage is very close to the firewall, so I put a loop in the throttle cable to keep a generous bend radius.

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14 hours ago, mainer311 said:

I’d like to cut the powder coat on the breather nipple and put something cleaner there (and lower) there. The hood actually contacts the hose in that spot.

You could modify the hood. We would clearance the hood by putting a 4x4 on top of the valve cover and gently closing the hood. If you do it carefully, you get a nice bend that's almost invisible, and also creates a sort of cowl induction hood. Helps the heat escape the engine bay.

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19 hours ago, mainer311 said:

I’d like to cut the powder coat on the breather nipple and put something cleaner there (and lower) there. The hood actually contacts the hose in that spot.

Tap it and put a -6 fitting. Also L20B i presume and if so you are aware the engine is taller and is an issue, like in my wagon. I actually put a small spacer in between the cross member and body to lower a little. Of course the truck does not have that option. What engine mounts are you running ? 

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