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Just bought a 521


mainer311

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14 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

That sucks. My local guy is so good, that I don't even buy new anymore. I just bring the stuff to him.

 

I wonder what makes the inexpensive ones fail so quickly. Is it crap bearings or bad re-machining of the cases?

 

One main reason for failure is high RPM use. Even a brand new OEM Datsun alternator won't stand up to constant high RPMs. The alternator on my race car, a Bosch ALRACE1 alternator, is built specifically for racing.  https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-ALRACE1-0124120006-New-Alternator/dp/B00427PMJQ

 

Another reason they give out is wobbly brackets. Luckily for the Datsun guys, the stock brackets are pretty stout, so this isn't usually a problem.

is the alternator internally regulated cuz i looked on the link you provided and checked specs but it does not state if internally regulated

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17 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

I wonder what they really do when they 're manufacture' an alternator? Clean it, paint it and put a sticker on it? 

I'm sure there are minimum requirements from the retailer. It probably gets disassembled and cleaned, the com maybe cut or polished, new brushes and bearings, and a plastic cover on back. New pulley and either paint or clean blasted case. For us to do that in our home shop would take an hour, but they can probably do ten per hour, or more.

 

They make their money on bulk.

 

When I used to cook for a living, I could break down a whole chicken in 45 seconds. Did that make me a bad cook? Nope.

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On 5/18/2022 at 12:02 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

One main reason for failure is high RPM use. Even a brand new OEM Datsun alternator won't stand up to constant high RPMs. The alternator on my race car, a Bosch ALRACE1 alternator, is built specifically for racing.  https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-ALRACE1-0124120006-New-Alternator/dp/B00427PMJQ

 

Is this fucker  confirmed fit for a 521 or are you just tickling our fancy with stuff like this?

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I just want a solid reliable alternator and am willing to pay good money for it.  I think Troy Ermish was selling them at one point but his website is painful as hell to navigate.  

 

And anyone seen this?  Oil pan support?  Mine still has a slow drip from the back passenger side and wondering if this would help?

 

Tired of your 510 oil pan leaking oil at the rail? Someone over tighten the bolts and pinch the gasket creating an even worse leak? Just finished up a run of pain rail supports. Designed to help support the rear to passenger side of the pan. The lowest points and most likely to leak area. Especially helpful when using the heavier 7qt comp race pan. Only 1 rail is needed per oil pan. ( sold individually )

 

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Edited by d.p
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4 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I'm sure there are minimum requirements from the retailer. It probably gets disassembled and cleaned, the com maybe cut or polished, new brushes and bearings, and a plastic cover on back. New pulley and either paint or clean blasted case. For us to do that in our home shop would take an hour, but they can probably do ten per hour, or more.

 

They make their money on bulk.

 

When I used to cook for a living, I could break down a whole chicken in 45 seconds. Did that make me a bad cook? Nope.


Whatever it entails, they forgot the woodruff key on the shaft…

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Seriously?

 

Yup. Only the nut torque was keeping the fan and pulley in place. Once I got the nut loose, I couldn't remove it because the shaft was spinning with the nut, even after I jammed a screwdriver into the fan. Had to reach in from the back and lock the armature in place to get the nut off. Top notch.

Edited by mainer311
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This was way easier than I expected. And I’m glad I changed the bearings and seals…they were nearly dry and burnt. 
 

The parking brake solution is not the greatest. I’m going to hook it up for now, and maybe find a better way this winter.

 

CCq1VVn.jpg

Edited by mainer311
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29 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

This was way easier than I expected. And I’m glad I changed the bearings and seals…they were nearly dry and burnt. 
 

The parking brake solution is not the greatest. I’m going to hook it up for now, and maybe find a better way this winter.

 

CCq1VVn.jpg

Atleast this guy had a solution for the ebrake.... and its actually clocked a little lower than the beebani's bracket.... my caliper is higher up and closer to the frame....

I dont even think the silvermine setup had a solution.....

 

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7 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Atleast this guy had a solution for the ebrake.... and its actually clocked a little lower than the beebani's bracket.... my caliper is higher up and closer to the frame....

I dont even think the silvermine setup had a solution.....

 


With the caliper clocked as shown, it really only works with a lowered truck. The drop blocks give clearance between the leaf and the parking brake mechanism. On a stock height truck, they’d be colliding.

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1 minute ago, mainer311 said:


With the caliper clocked as shown, it really only works with a lowered truck. The drop blocks give clearance between the leaf and the parking brake mechanism. On a stock height truck, they’d be colliding.

 

Well what the fuck do you care if your truck is lowered lol?  Seems pretty trivial to complain about if you ask me.  

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2 minutes ago, mainer311 said:


With the caliper clocked as shown, it really only works with a lowered truck. The drop blocks give clearance between the leaf and the parking brake mechanism. On a stock height truck, they’d be colliding.

I see what your saying.... 

Atleast yours works for your setup and mine works for mine....

Clearance is clearance no matter what.....

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Just now, Crashtd420 said:

I see what your saying.... 

Atleast yours works for your setup and mine works for mine....

Clearance is clearance no matter what.....


The issue is that the supplied parking brake brackets make the cable bend around the u-bolts, so it’s not a straight pull, and they’re always rubbing no matter what. I’m sure I can come up with something else.

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9 minutes ago, mainer311 said:


The issue is that the supplied parking brake brackets make the cable bend around the u-bolts, so it’s not a straight pull, and they’re always rubbing no matter what. I’m sure I can come up with something else.

I have seen one other who bent a tube for the cable to run through.... so It wasn't against a sharp edge....

You might even get lucky and can find some different lines with a rubber exterior that fit the bracket on the frame.....

I found a bunch of different lengths one when I was looking for some for mine.... 

Then just connect the 2 sides with an unsheathed cable around the stock center pull..... 

I'm sure you'll come up with a good fix that you like.  

Edited by Crashtd420
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Here is a pic of my setup and it looks like the only thing that rubs against the u-bolt is the spring that goes over the parking brake line.   

 

52395561089_833a92ef8b_b.jpg

 

For me I don't think it even matters because I don't drive it at all but I could see where maybe it could be an issue for someone who drives these fuckers all the time?  

 


 

 

 

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