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mainer311

Just bought a 521

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I need some opinions. Sitting here, working from home, gives me a lot of time for bad ideas.

 

What is everyone's thoughts on bedliner? I use my truck as a truck. I want to preserve it for as long as possible. Should I bedliner it? I was going to get a Raptorliner kit from Amazon that includes the special sputter gun. My plan was to use the same kit on the bottom half of my Xterra.

 

The previous owner sprayed the inside of the bed with paint-matched rattle can. It looks okay, but it comes off easily.

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I thought about it, even went to the shop and got a quote but at the end of the day I like it the way it is.   

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I don't love it, but it's good protection.  I don't trust the diy products I've seen. I would also try to color match it.

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On 3/7/2020 at 4:12 AM, mainer311 said:

Last night I had a look at the float. The Weber instructions online don’t look quite right for some reason, since their 2 measurements don’t really jive. A lot of concensus is that when fully depressed the float is parallel with the inside of the cover. Mine was a few millimeters off, so I adjusted it a little. It should actually raise the fuel level a little bit. For the hell of it, I also changed the primary jet from 140 to 145. It’s so lean, I need to get some fuel flowing.

The 2 float height measurements apply to the brass float or the plastic float.

 

Pierce Manifolds Float Level

 

3236dgv-jetting-001.jpg

 

Baseline-Jetting-In-Current-New-Weber-Ca

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42 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

The 2 float height measurements apply to the brass float or the plastic float.

 

Pierce Manifolds Float Level

 

Yes, I know. Mine is the middle picture. The problem is that, if I measure the float in the fully closed position, I get the 35mm value, but in the fully open position, I get 41, not 51. They say to hang the lid vertically so that the float rests against the ball w/o compressing it. I did that. It get's me a measurement of 41. Also noted from the middle picture is that the float is parallel with the inside of the lid when fully closed. That's what I made my adjustment based on, which coincided with the 35mm. I figure I don't really care what the fully open position is, because I'm trying to adjust how high the fuel gets.

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3 hours ago, mainer311 said:

I need some opinions. Sitting here, working from home, gives me a lot of time for bad ideas.

 

What is everyone's thoughts on bedliner? I use my truck as a truck. I want to preserve it for as long as possible. Should I bedliner it? I was going to get a Raptorliner kit from Amazon that includes the special sputter gun. My plan was to use the same kit on the bottom half of my Xterra.

 

The previous owner sprayed the inside of the bed with paint-matched rattle can. It looks okay, but it comes off easily.

If your just looking for a little extra protection for the floor of the bed, demo had a good idea....

He got , I think, a 4x6 rubber mat from tractor supply and cut it to fit the bed floor,  looked pretty good...

I dont remember the specifics, you would have to ask him or check a few pages back on his truck thread....

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8 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

If your just looking for a little extra protection for the floor of the bed, demo had a good idea....

He got , I think, a 4x6 rubber mat from tractor supply and cut it to fit the bed floor,  looked pretty good...

I dont remember the specifics, you would have to ask him or check a few pages back on his truck thread....

 

Interesting, they do have one for $60. $75 delivered.

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57 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

If your just looking for a little extra protection for the floor of the bed, demo had a good idea....

He got , I think, a 4x6 rubber mat from tractor supply and cut it to fit the bed floor,  looked pretty good...

I dont remember the specifics, you would have to ask him or check a few pages back on his truck thread....

 

47 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

 

Interesting, they do have one for $60. $75 delivered.

 

Yea I picked one up from Tractor Supply, rubber stall mat,  it was ~$50 if I remember could have been $60... - they had a stack of em outside. ~ 3/4 of an inch thick. I keep the truck under a cover right now, but really havent had any issues with water pooling underneath it, it dries out pretty quick.  Still probably a good idea to seal the bed with some kinda bed liner- I should do this at some point... as can be seen by the rust in one of the photos below... - this just helps protect against big dents and what not as well as keep stuff from sliding around. I just used a box cutter to cut out the wheel wells, just keep scoring it till you get all the way through
 

20200222_164524


 

20200222_164541

 

Was perfect for moving rocks the other day! 
 

20200328_115920

 

Edited by demo243
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I've seen both professionally applied and DIY spray in bedliner failures. I suspect the failures are due to bad prep. If you're going to use your bed for hauling heavy things that you need to slide in and out (ie- engine blocks, etc) I wouldn't use any spray in or rubber bedliner, as it makes it near impossible to slide things in and out.

 

I do like the rubber mat idea. You can buy bulk matting on Amazon. Last year I made custom floor mats for my restored CJ5 that I auctioned on BaT. I couldn't find any mats so I ordered a roll of bulk restaurant rubber floor mat and cut it to fit.

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The one that I found has holes throughout for drainage/drying. Tractor Supply is actually marketing it as a truck bed mat. I mostly make Home Depot runs and carry a lot of plywood/lumber/brick pavers.

 

Funny though, even the Tractor Supply pictures show a truck with bedliner already in it.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/buffalo-tools-4-x-6-ft-truck-bed-utilty-mat-tbm46?cm_vc=-10005

 

 

Edited by mainer311
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Just throwing this out there as a helpful tip: Barkeeper's Friend is a great product for scrubbing chrome. I take a piece of an old t-shirt, soak it with water, and then fill it up with Barkeeper's Friend. Scrub your chrome/stainless/whatever with it, then rinse with water. Works great!

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8 hours ago, mainer311 said:

Just throwing this out there as a helpful tip: Barkeeper's Friend is a great product for scrubbing chrome. I take a piece of an old t-shirt, soak it with water, and then fill it up with Barkeeper's Friend. Scrub your chrome/stainless/whatever with it, then rinse with water. Works great!

A picture please of the Barkeeper's Friend container would help as there are several products made with the same basic name.

Edited by Charlie69

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Thank you, on my shopping list.

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i did a spray in bedliner with the help of dat620/tom about 6 years ago and it like a raptor kit that came with 4 cans that were i think 40 oz each then add hardener to each can and attach supplied spray gun. it has held up real well

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Installed Mikey’s kit this morning. Top notch.

 

VPwYPFZ.jpg

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Is the limit switch at the top of the gas pedal linkage part of the emissions system? (Blue wire with red stripe.)

 

My switch gets hot and stuck, which prevents my truck from returning to idle.

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I believe so. On a dual points distributor it detects either below or above half throttle and is connected through a thermal and a 4th gear switch. Engines runs 7 degrees retarded from what ever it is set with a timing light unless in 4th gear and above 50F. If in 4th the retard set are disconnected.

 

This is the stupidest set up there is. There is a relay for the retard points probably near the ballast resister. Unplug it to disable the retard points (or remove them) and run full advance all the time. Check with a timing light and maybe reset your idle. If the idle still hangs up it isn't the retard set or this switch.

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Everything else is already removed, including the 3rd gear relay. I’m running a matchbox anyway. I believe the part throttle switch was on the Hitachi linkage itself, which I removed a while back. I can’t figure out how an idle switch and a part throttle switch would work together, but who knows. I pulled it out of the firewall, and the pedal no longer gets hung up. And of course it’s some oddball fine thread so I have nothing in my stash to plug it with.

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Hey guys, sometimes when it’s hot out, there is a super loud buzzing inside the cab. Well, tonight it did it long enough for me to figure out that it’s coming from the voltage regulator. Does anyone know what it means when one of these starts buzzing super loud? If I turn my headlights off and push the choke all the way in so that my rpm’s drop really low (650 or so), it stops buzzing.

 

Heres a vid of the sound:

https://imgur.com/a/Xi02iIN

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1/ You can hear the voltage regulator in the cab?

 

2/ Your idle speed is set by using your manual choke???

 

 

The mechanical voltage regulator has 2 relays that sense voltage drop and voltage over charge and rapidly open and close contacts to maintain an average charge rate. Normally they are fairly quiet. It's like trying to drive a car at 50MPH but the gas is either full throttle or idle. By stepping rapidly on the gas, on and off you can keep the 50MPH.

 

See if the regulator case is loose or it's not bolted down to the fender tightly. I think one of the regulator bolts also has a ground wire from the battery? Certainly make sure that there is a good ground to the vehicle body. 

 

If it's charging otherwise, and no problems, at some time borrow another regulator and see if it does this. There may be no problem it's just noisy.  

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Another reason to go to an internally regulated alternator, or at least a solid state regulator

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37 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

1/ You can hear the voltage regulator in the cab?

 

2/ Your idle speed is set by using your manual choke???


Yep, it buzzes loud enough that it sounds a bearing going bad, but it’s definitely the VR. In fact, if I put my hand on it, it’s vibrating like crazy. Definitely heard inside the cab, and super annoying. If I’m driving around, the buzzing goes away.

 

I only set the idle with the choke at night when my headlights are on and the RPM’s drop too low from the load on the alternator.

Edited by mainer311

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What would happen if you set your idle with the headlamps on? Usually the load only drops the idle 100-150 RPMs. A normal idle is 750-850.

 

When you lower the idle you said the buzzing stops... does the red charge light come on? even on dimly??

 

 

 

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