mainer311 Posted January 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said: If if one bores a 85mm too much I would find a Nissan Compitition gasket like a 87mm if still avail. or can find one. I heard Nissan ran out of those years ago unless somebody has one on Ebay. I THINK I SEEN 88MM VERSION OUT THERE ALSO There's a few here. 88.5mm https://www.ebay.com/itm/11044-A7651-Cylinder-Head-Gasket-Nismo-OEM-For-Datsun-510-610-710-521-620-720-L/182211259235?hash=item2a6ca32b63:g:7HEAAOSw-FZXjqmG Edited January 7, 2020 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 7, 2020 Report Share Posted January 7, 2020 yeah I seen those but 88.5 is a little too big 87mm is my preferred choice. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2020 Anyone else see Wheel of Fortune tonight? Holy crap! 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 9, 2020 Report Share Posted January 9, 2020 12 minutes ago, mainer311 said: Anyone else see Wheel of Fortune tonight? Holy crap! No but now I wish I did..... What did we miss? 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2020 13 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: No but now I wish I did..... What did we miss? Pat Sajak’s daughter Maggie is the new letter-flipper... 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 9, 2020 Report Share Posted January 9, 2020 So Vanna is the host? 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2020 39 minutes ago, wayno said: So Vanna is the host? For the time being I think. She’s really awkward as the host. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 9, 2020 Report Share Posted January 9, 2020 I understand that, when someone has been hosting a show like Pat has for a very long time, if anyone else hosts it they will seem awkward until you get used to them or in other words it don't seem right, but some people are not meant to be hosts of a game show, it's kinda an art, you need to be born to it. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2020 Yeah, once Alex leaves, Jeopardy will never be the same. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 9, 2020 Report Share Posted January 9, 2020 2 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: No but now I wish I did..... What did we miss? Not much apparently. Just old comfortable shoes traded in for new tighter ones. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2020 (edited) While everything is apart, I decided to have a look at my thermostat housing, since it was leaking. Turns out the mating flange was pitted to hell. Luckily, the casting is relatively square, and I was able to machine off both surfaces today. Only took about 0.010” or so to get them both nice again. Edited January 9, 2020 by mainer311 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2020 Based on this picture, what do you guys think about my seats? I removed cylinder #1 valves real quick to have a look. I’m still working on the porting, and just received a set of valve stem seals. (Any tips on those would be great too.) Keep in mind that I wasn’t running out of valve lash adjustment. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 11, 2020 Report Share Posted January 11, 2020 Intake looks ok but lap it lightly, the exhaust needs more work. Blend the seat (here it's bronze and easy to see) into the port wall. L heads are good but sometimes the port is cut and the seat doesn't match and there is a lip or a ledge with a burr. I used sanding rolls on an electric drill.... carefully. Tear a 1/4" strip of 80 grit emery cloth and with the valve out push through the port and holding both ends tight see saw it back and forth, careful not to abrade the valve seat face. Pulled tight it is the shortest direct path through the port and it will grind away and smooth any hump on the near radius. Some valve grinding compound and an electric drill makes short work of lapping the valves... While the valve is out, chuck it in a drill and hold against some emery cloth to round the sharp edge off the valve. Again do NOT touch the face itself. This one has already been lapped with compound. I also did the port side to remove any deposits and smooth away any edge. The smoothing and rounding is like velocity stacks on side drafts. Like I said in another post each of these by itself has little effect but they all add up. 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2020 (edited) I got valve lappers and compound today too. Plan was to take a dremel with a sanding drum and clean up as much as I can around the guides, lap the crud off of the seats, and leave a lot of the chamber surfaces alone. Basically just want to get everything like new again. Not super concerned with blending and performance. None of my valves look sunk, so I may just clean it up and run it. Someone on here said that oven cleaner works awesome for getting the carbon off, so I may try that overnight. Edited January 11, 2020 by mainer311 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2020 Made some good progress. I cleaned the crud off all of the valvetrain parts, lapped all of the pitting out of the exhaust valves/seats, and polished the intake seats. Last night I installed new stem seals and reassembled all of the valves. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 14, 2020 Report Share Posted January 14, 2020 are those Nissan seals? or another brand like Felpro? Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2020 43 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: are those Nissan seals? or another brand like Felpro? The brand was Apex. P/N AVS3007. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 (edited) Head is back on. Installed the rockers and cam towers first. Spun the cam to make sure it was okay, then installed the head gasket. Plopped head on and torqued to the 60ft-lbs in the ARP instructions. Luckily all of the timing lined back up. Also, a guy I know from the Xterra community is building one insane 620 right now. Kind of along the same lines as Bigtanks 521. Check out an Instagram page by user “iknowblueberry”. Edited January 16, 2020 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 16, 2020 Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 Lol I tied my exhaust manifold back around the fender with a ratchet strap when I did my head. That was before I replaced all the studs on the downpipe and flange which was a total bitch to do. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 16, 2020 Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 I notice the motor is not set to TDC? going by the spindal position and the head. Unless you have it set to that spot as when you removed it. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said: I notice the motor is not set to TDC? going by the spindal position and the head. Unless you have it set to that spot as when you removed it. Marked the chain and sprocket, then rotated the cam around to line up with the pin hole on the sprocket when I put it back on. I didn't bother with the TDC crap. As long as it goes together exactly how it came apart, then it should be fine. Funny though, when I took the whole thing apart, the pin was in the #2 hole. I thought on L16's it was supposed to be in the #1 hole? The truck has always run pretty good, so I just left it that way. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 1 hour ago, d.p said: Lol I tied my exhaust manifold back around the fender with a ratchet strap when I did my head. That was before I replaced all the studs on the downpipe and flange which was a total bitch to do. I did that last winter. One of the studs was so rotted, it was almost half it's original diameter. Luckily I don't have to deal with that crap this time around. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 16, 2020 Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 number 2 to just adv it for chain stretch. or to bring power on sooner as they claim. But a 521 has such low gearing who would know. L20 come from Factory on #2 I just put to TDC as a ref in case something happens. dist set up, Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 16, 2020 Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 Check for proper cam timing, carefully setting the correct TDC by turning engine only clockwise to it. If you overshoot back well up and try again. This will tension the tension (driver's) side of the chain and collect all the slack on the slack (passenger) side. Correct cam timing should look like this regardless of which hole the cam is is.... This is an L16/18 on the #1 hole but perfectly timed. If you are on the #2 hole and the notch in the back of the sprocket is just below or slightly to the right of the small line above it, (as shown above) it is also perfectly timed. Maybe the chain is slightly stretched or the head was milled down and it was corrected. The position of the notch to the line governs, even if you are on the #3 hole. If on the #3 hole and you can't get it right then the chain needs to be replaced.... I have never seen a stretched chain. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted January 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 (edited) I think it’s dead on, but this is my first L series rodeo. Still on hole #2, TDC on crank, lobes at 10 and 2. Edited January 17, 2020 by mainer311 Quote Link to comment
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