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Just bought a 521


mainer311

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28 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

Hey DP, sorry not sorry.

 

POapIdb.jpg

 

HpCuvY1.jpg

 

You have to drill some serious-sized holes in the fenders for these, one of which is 3/4”. 

 

27 minutes ago, d.p said:

You rang?  Chin spoiler too?!  

 

Poor truck. Lol

Dude your truck is fuckin clean. And Drew again stop the hatred. Be nice. 

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33 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

Ya you are Weber bound with the Offenhauser manifold.  I prefer the Cannon manifolds, they have larger ports.

 

I think Offy made a couple different flavors, but the more I look at it, the more I think it’s for a Weber based on the inlet diameters on the mounting flange. I’m currently still cleaning it up, chasing all the threads, installing new studs, and trying to port the casting a little bit to clean up the mismatch of the casting between the two halves. I may have it powder coated glossy black too, but I haven’t decided yet.

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Okay, I have an intermittent coolant leak from what appears to be my head gasket near the firewall. It seems to leak only when running and cold, and once it warms up, it stops. I walked out of Target tonight to a huge puddle. Luckily it was the person before me and their A/C condenser puddle, but upon looking, I do have green dripping from the bottom of my bellhousing. 

 

Here’s the leaky area:

nrqzrj0.jpg

 

My question is, do guys think it’s possible that I could snug up the two rear head bolts, or will that cause more problems? I looked at some L16 block images, and it appears there is a large coolant passage right there, directly between the rear-most head bolts.

 

I’d rather not pull the head, but if I have to, I would really want to delay it until winter.

Edited by mainer311
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8 minutes ago, d.p said:

Could It be your heater hoses leaking? 

 

I checked and I didn’t feel anything. I was reading a Z forum and another guy had similar symptoms where it would leak when it was cold and then stop when it got  up to temp. Everyone was saying it’s because the coolant pressure is higher in the block before the t-stat opens.

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Feel around under the hoses, hose clamps and the fitting into the head. Hoses may have chafed against something. Check your fingers often for wetness. Water will run down hill along something given the chance. There is also a brass block drain plug low on the block just above the starter... there may be one on the opposite side also. Looks like a bolt head.

On the very back side of the head is a core plug or a threaded plug I forget. Feel for wetness there also.

Last is the rear coolant passage from the head to the intake runner.

 

I wouldn't over tighten the rear head bolts but if you do them one at a time you could loosen one and torque to spec. 60 ft lbs then do the other side.

 

Everyone doesn't know what they are talking about. Pressure will be equal in all parts of the cooling system. Exactly how can it be higher in the block than in the rad? Is there a thermostat blocking the bottom rad hose too? Cooling system may be slightly high but not above the rad cap rating.. (about 13 PSI)

 

A remote possibility is a head gasket in the process of blowing. Compression leaks into the cooling system and pressurizes it. Maybe not enough to be pushed out the rad cap but enough to push past a loose gear clamp or fitting. Once warmed up it seals.

 

 

 

 

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I'm fairly certain it's either the rear plug in the head, or the gasket, but I'm leaning towards the gasket if it stops when it's hot. 

 

What are your opinions on Bar's Leaks? It seems like a lot of people use it for a blown head gasket, but I don't think mine is that bad.

Edited by mainer311
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NEVER ever use that stuff. Ever!!!

 

Loosen each head bolt and re-torque to spec. It's about all you can do for the head gasket.

 

The intake gasket will act the same when it heats up. See if the bottom bolts are snug on the studs. I would think an intake leak might drip down the side of the block, but who knows. Most likely are the heater hoses.

 

There is a large core plug on the back of the block hidden behind the flywheel I forgot about. No way to look and check it so I only mentioned all the others first to eliminate them.

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I personally hate any and all additives added to coolant to stop a leak.....

I think it clogs more than you really want... kind of like using tire slime .... may fix the problem but leaves you more to deal with later....

 

Could you possibly use one of those coolant pressure testers and pressurize the system..... if you do have a leak that should get it to leak so you can see it...

 

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12 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

There is a large core plug on the back of the block hidden behind the flywheel I forgot about. No way to look and check it so I only mentioned all the others first to eliminate them.

 

I replaced that when I had the transmission out this past winter.

 

I can follow the leak from the back of the block by the head gasket all the way down past the starter to the bottom of the bellhousing. 

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16 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

I personally hate any and all additives added to coolant to stop a leak.....

I think it clogs more than you really want... kind of like using tire slime .... may fix the problem but leaves you more to deal with later....

 

Could you possibly use one of those coolant pressure testers and pressurize the system..... if you do have a leak that should get it to leak so you can see it...

 

 

Yeah, I would only use that if it was a last resort or an emergency. 

 

The problem isn't finding the leak, as I'm 95% sure it's the head gasket. I'm not sure why Mike keeps suggesting areas to check, as my original question was about tightening the head bolts, not where to look for leaks. (Ratsun strikes again.)

 

Crash, did you use ARP studs when you rebuilt your engine?

Edited by mainer311
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3 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

 

Yeah, I would only use that if it was a last resort or an emergency. 

 

The problem isn't finding the leak, as I'm 95% sure it's the head gasket. 

 

Crash, did you use ARP studs when you rebuilt your engine?

Looks like someones pulling his head soon....

And Yes I did use arp .....

If you look them up they list under nissan for the L20b..... 

Or I could just look at my notes and tell you...

the head studs are part # 202-4201

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