mainer311 Posted March 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2019 Tapped the breather to 1/4 NPT. Worked great. Also installed a new o-ring for the striking rod, and new output shaft seal. Pulled the bottom cover and will get that painted. All that’s left for the transmission is to press the new throw out bearing on, and get a new seal into the front cover. 5 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 Okay, what’s a good way to hold the crank in place while the flywheel and clutch pressure plate bolts get torqued? 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 19, 2019 Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 Put a socket and breaker bar on the front crank nut and then turn the engine by hand till the breaker bar rests on the pass side frame rail, if it doesn't reach put a piece of pipe over the handle. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 Thanks Wayno. I'll see if I can get a socket in there. Transmission is done. Got the old clutch, flywheel, and pilot bushing out last night. Installed the new pilot bushing and the press-fit is making the ID too tight. Looks like I'll have to hone it out a little bit. Looks to be about 0.003" from where I need it. I can get the alignment tool to fit (0.062"), but the trans shaft is 0.063" and doesn't go. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 19, 2019 Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 Where did you get the pilot? Maybe try another. They should not be that tight or hard to hammer in. Did you use a block of wood to seat it? Metal to metal may have distorted it. The nose is 0.063" 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 It's the one that came in my Exedy clutch kit. I used a small chunk of aluminum round stock on it, and then hit the aluminum with a hammer. It took a few goods whacks to get it in. I read in another post that you used a National PB22, but I don't think anyone local has one. Willing to bet the local dealer doesn't have one either. BTW, the Nissan number has been superseded, and is now: 32202-B950A. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 19, 2019 Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 16 hours ago, mainer311 said: Okay, what’s a good way to hold the crank in place while the flywheel and clutch pressure plate bolts get torqued? I use a vise grip on the ring gear. It will rest against the bottom of the block when the flywheel tries to rotate. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 19 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: I use a vise grip on the ring gear. It will rest against the bottom of the block when the flywheel tries to rotate. If I can't get a socket on the front pulley, I'll try something like this. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 20, 2019 Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 It's 27mm. But know that the flywheel mounting bolts are 101 to 116 ft lbs and the crank pulley bolt is 87 to 116 ft lbs. You may end up loosening the front pulley while tightening the flywheel bolts!!! Take the valve cover off and slip a socket extension through the cam sprocket and turn engine till locked in place. 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted March 20, 2019 Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-23800-Flywheel-Turner/dp/B000FN7JE2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Flywheel+tool&qid=1553086881&s=gateway&sr=8-4 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, datzenmike said: It's 27mm. But know that the flywheel mounting bolts are 101 to 116 ft lbs and the crank pulley bolt is 87 to 116 ft lbs. You may end up loosening the front pulley while tightening the flywheel bolts!!! Take the valve cover off and slip a socket extension through the cam sprocket and turn engine till locked in place. Not unless the front nut is left hand thread. Is it? Edited March 20, 2019 by mainer311 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 20, 2019 Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 Just now, mainer311 said: Not unless the front nut is left hand thread. Is it? No it's not, I was just wondering the same thing.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 20, 2019 Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 But with the vise grip, you don't need another hand to hold the ratchet on the crank bolt or the ring gear tool. The vise grip does the work by itself, allowing you to keep both hands on your torque wrench. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 7 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: But with the vise grip, you don't need another hand to hold the ratchet on the crank bolt or the ring gear tool. The vise grip does the work by itself, allowing you to keep both hands on your torque wrench. That's what pipes are for. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 20, 2019 Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 Ok. Your call. Vise grips always worked best for me. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 20, 2019 Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 Before I suggested the breaker bar/socket on the front pulley nut I thought about if it would loosen that nut, it does not. 2 Quote Link to comment
NC85ST Posted March 20, 2019 Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 For the flywheel bolts, I always used a chain hooked to a transmission bolt on the block and a clutch bolt. Never had a problem. 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 (edited) 2 hours ago, wayno said: Before I suggested the breaker bar/socket on the front pulley nut I thought about if it would loosen that nut, it does not. Yeah, it makes sense that it wouldn’t. Not sure what Mike was thinking. I just can’t remember if my radiator shroud is in the way or not. Edited March 20, 2019 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 Well, I ordered 2 new bushings from Nissan. Probably over paid. I did manage to get the new Exedy bushing out and measured it. OD is .810. The old bushing OD is .8085. Both bushings fit the trans input shaft in their free state. I sanded the new bushing down to .8085, but will wait for the Nissan bushings to show up to measure those. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 I prefer this one. Flywheel lock Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 2 hours ago, mainer311 said: Yeah, it makes sense that it wouldn’t. Not sure what Mike was thinking. I just can’t remember if my radiator shroud is in the way or not. It's just that they are close to the same torque. Close is... close, that's all. I've had a crank pulley fall off before. Alt. belt came off light on. I walked back the highway and found the bolt and put on with vice grips to get me home. How the woodruff keys never fell out I'll never know. I don't recommend this experience to anyone. 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 Yeah, but the direction the crank turns when tightening the flywheel bolts, It tightens the pulley nut. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 I does so! It was a long day yesterday. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 (edited) On 3/20/2019 at 12:41 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Ok. Your call. Vise grips always worked best for me. Used this method today. Worked great. As I suspected, there wasn’t enough room to get a socket onto the front pulley with the engine in the truck, so I used the vise grips and they held on just fine. Torqued the bolts to 120ft-lbs. Had the flywheel ground at a local shop, and now it’s ready for the new clutch install. Also got the pilot bushing back in after sanding a little bit of the OD off, and the new rear main seal is in. Edited March 22, 2019 by mainer311 3 Quote Link to comment
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