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Just bought a 521


mainer311

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Tapped the breather to 1/4 NPT. Worked great. Also installed a new o-ring for the striking rod, and new output shaft seal. Pulled the bottom cover and will get that painted. All that’s left for the transmission is to press the new throw out bearing on, and get a new seal into the front cover.

 

IKZIP8o.jpg

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Thanks Wayno. I'll see if I can get a socket in there.

 

Transmission is done. 

 

Got the old clutch, flywheel, and pilot bushing out last night. Installed the new pilot bushing and the press-fit is making the ID too tight. Looks like I'll have to hone it out a little bit. Looks to be about 0.003" from where I need it. I can get the alignment tool to fit (0.062"), but the trans shaft is 0.063" and doesn't go.

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It's the one that came in my Exedy clutch kit. I used a small chunk of aluminum round stock on it, and then hit the aluminum with a hammer. It took a few goods whacks to get it in.

 

I read in another post that you used a National PB22, but I don't think anyone local has one. Willing to bet the local dealer doesn't have one either. BTW, the Nissan number has been superseded, and is now: 32202-B950A.

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19 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I use a vise grip on the ring gear. It will rest against the bottom of the block when the flywheel tries to rotate.

 

If I can't get a socket on the front pulley, I'll try something like this.

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It's 27mm. But know that the flywheel mounting bolts are 101 to 116 ft lbs and the crank pulley bolt is 87 to 116 ft lbs. You may end up loosening the front pulley while tightening the flywheel bolts!!! Take the valve cover off and slip a socket extension through the cam sprocket and turn engine till locked in place.

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

It's 27mm. But know that the flywheel mounting bolts are 101 to 116 ft lbs and the crank pulley bolt is 87 to 116 ft lbs. You may end up loosening the front pulley while tightening the flywheel bolts!!! Take the valve cover off and slip a socket extension through the cam sprocket and turn engine till locked in place.

 

Not unless the front nut is left hand thread. Is it?

Edited by mainer311
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7 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

But with the vise grip, you don't need another hand to hold the ratchet on the crank bolt or the ring gear tool. The vise grip does the work by itself, allowing you to keep both hands on your torque wrench.

 

That's what pipes are for.

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2 hours ago, wayno said:

Before I suggested the breaker bar/socket on the front pulley nut I thought about if it would loosen that nut, it does not.

 

Yeah, it makes sense that it wouldn’t. Not sure what Mike was thinking. I just can’t remember if my radiator shroud is in the way or not.

Edited by mainer311
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Well, I ordered 2 new bushings from Nissan. Probably over paid. I did manage to get the new Exedy bushing out and measured it. OD is .810. The old bushing OD is .8085. Both bushings fit the trans input shaft in their free state.

 

I sanded the new bushing down to .8085, but will wait for the Nissan bushings to show up to measure those.

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2 hours ago, mainer311 said:

 

Yeah, it makes sense that it wouldn’t. Not sure what Mike was thinking. I just can’t remember if my radiator shroud is in the way or not.

 

It's just that they are close to the same torque. Close is... close, that's all. I've had a crank pulley fall off before. Alt. belt came off light on. I walked back the highway and found the bolt and put on with vice grips to get me home. How the woodruff keys never fell out I'll never know. I don't recommend this experience to anyone.

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On 3/20/2019 at 12:41 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Ok. Your call. Vise grips always worked best for me.

 

Used this method today. Worked great. As I suspected, there wasn’t enough room to get a socket onto the front pulley with the engine in the truck, so I used the vise grips and they held on just fine. Torqued the bolts to 120ft-lbs. 

 

Had the flywheel ground at a local shop, and now it’s ready for the new clutch install. 

 

Also got the pilot bushing back in after sanding a little bit of the OD off, and the new rear main seal is in.

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