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Just bought a 521


mainer311

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11 hours ago, mainer311 said:

Mocked up the wheel using the standard adapter and kit from my roadster. Sticks out too far. I designed a thinner 3 bolt to 5 bolt adapter today and will machine it once our mill frees up. My plan is to also design a filler shroud and 3D print that to fill the gap behind the wheel. It should

have full horn and turn signal cancellation once it’s done. It makes getting in and out of the truck a lot easier.

 

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Looks good.. What diameter is the steering wheel?

How is the visibility of the stock gauges?

My steering wheel is kind of small.... makes my stock gauges kind of hard to read.     

 

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1 hour ago, mainer311 said:

It's a 13" wheel. It does occlude the stock speedometer a little bit, but it doesn't bother me. My truck is slow, why do I need to look at the speedometer anyway? ?

 

Too funny....

I think mine is a 13 also, does good, it was ruff turning before but since I rebuild my kingpins it's not a  problem....

 

I cant wait to see all your upgrades in person.... I know mines more rat than original, but I definitely like the look and mods your doing while keeping it stock looking...

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Sooo, I just received a Grant part number 3592 from Amazon. I open the box and the item inside looks nothing like their typical installation kit. Can’t figure out what it is, then it dawns on me that it’s an expensive quick release!

 

I’m so torn. It’s worth way more than I paid for it, but it’s kinda useless to me. Do I send it back? Anyone want a steering wheel quick release for $30?

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Steering wheel is in. Horn and blinker cancellation work. I modeled up the extra shroud, but haven’t had a chance to 3D print it yet. I sprayed the adapter and bezel last night with bedliner.

 

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Edited by mainer311
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Despite it being Labor Day, worked has been swamped, so I went in all morning. That gave me a chance to finally print the steering column shroud. When I got home, I acetoned it, sanded, and sprayed with the same bedliner as the other 2 pieces. I then used some JB-qwik and epoxied the stepped end into the back of the Grant shroud. Fits perfect. 

 

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Unfortunately, despite all my attempts at modifying the horn contact on the back, it kept shorting and blowing the horn as the steering wheel was turned. To fix this, I removed the female spade crimp from the housing under the dash, made a short spade connector jumper, and put an aftermarket horn button on the bottom of the dash. State law says that you need a functioning horn, but there is no requirement for it being on the wheel or column.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I made a little horn button trim piece for my new steering wheel. Japanese Car day is rapidly approaching and I’m putting some final doo-dads on it. This little piece is 1.5” in diameter, and matches my hub centercaps.

 

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Edited by mainer311
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey do you want my 60 amp externally regulated altenator Sunday? It's the exact same one you have... I'm thinking of you ever need to warranty what you have it would come in handy.... 

I'll trade you for an old one if you have one and want to.... all I want is a core, just in case, doesn't even need to be good... I would rather not give up a good altenator as a core if the situation ever came up where I needed it.... 

 

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There might be a slight gear difference but in my opinion probably not enough for the hassle.... 

You'll need to mod the driveshaft and rear transmission mount and the shifter location.... the zcar transmission is a bit longer....  it is stronger but if your gonna go that far I would find a 5spd.... the only benefit I see is you'll have the mods done for when you swap to the 5 spd....

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If actually from a 240 or 260Z the ratios are almost exactly the same. (these are old cars now and the trans may have been swapped for a later 4 speed) From '75 on they are a mid ratio which I think better over all for a truck with 4.375 diff that is used for commuting rather than work. If you mod the truck for the 4 speed, when a 5 speed comes along it's literally a drop in swap.

 

I would put an old clutch disc on and mark it and the output spline at 12 o'clock. Place in first and turn 20 times while counting the output turns...

5.5 turns would be a wide ratio, 3.592 first (similar to the stock 4 speed)

6.0 turns is a mid ratio with a 3.321 first

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