mainer311 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 Crash! My wife sent this to me, taken on Rt. 128 in Wakefield! Who is it? 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 Got the longer studs tonight and put it back on the ground. I may have problems if I hit large bumps/potholes. I'll likely baseball bat the lips on the front fenders. Looks good. You might clear fine considering the inward swing of the suspension 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 Mike Klotz's kits fit stock 14" wheels. Sometimes cheaper is not always better! LOL 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 Mine is way lower than yours and I don't rub in the front. I did have to massage the rear fenders though. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 Crash! My wife sent this to me, taken on Rt. 128 in Wakefield! Who is it? No idea... haven't heard of that one ... or of a 620 up here.. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted February 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 Got my EI dizzy in. Still need to wire it. Figured out the clocking problem by using the original dizzy pedestal and plate. Cut off the large aluminum tab on the original pedestal, then cut a mounting slot in the plate 180 degrees from the timing slot. Now the matchbox is away from the exhaust, and the vacuum advance isn’t hitting anything. I eyeballed the timing mark around 12 BTDC, and the rotor is pointing almost exactly to one of the cap contacts. Love when stuff works out. 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted February 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 Now I need to find a new vacuum fitting for the carb since it’s not a compression fitting anymore. Assuming it’s metric. Is there a metric barb fitting out there? 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 Just get a weber 32/36 and run a rubber vacuum line. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 Yes, get a DGV. So much easier to tune than a stock carb. If you want to run a stock air cleaner, it's possible with a few mods. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted February 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 It’s an M7x1 thread, WTF? I looked at the Webers. Maybe someday. My Hitachi is in great shape and I just rebuilt it, so it stays for now. If you ask me, it has been the easiest carb to tune out of my Datsuns. Balancing and tuning SU’s sucks. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted February 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 Just fired it up. Left the vac advance undone and stuffed an M7 bolt in the base of the carb. Retimed it and left the plugs gapped to .040”. Runs like a dream. 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 I don't know if you tried this before you cut but one can just put the pedestal mount on 180 off and that will get the Vacuume adv on the other side . there where 2 types of pedastals for the matchbox as they were slightly off(pedastals) the common one using the point and matchbox dizzy 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted February 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 It wouldn’t fit 180 off, I tried. The vac advance is too tight against the upper road hose. The part that I cut off is just the big aluminum tab with gradations on it. If I ever went back to points (why would I?) it’s completely reversible. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 5, 2018 Report Share Posted February 5, 2018 It’s an M7x1 thread, WTF? I looked at the Webers. Maybe someday. My Hitachi is in great shape and I just rebuilt it, so it stays for now. If you ask me, it has been the easiest carb to tune out of my Datsuns. Balancing and tuning SU’s sucks. I guess what I mean is re-jetting and fine tuning. DGV jets are widely available, including pump nozzles, auxiliary venturis, idle jets, needle and seats, etc. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted February 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2018 Tonight I got my JAF badge installed, and test fitted my 3D printed lower-profile center cap. Will be color matched to the truck and inlaid with paint on the “D” symbol. Also test fit my new lug nuts. Went with black to offset some of that shiny wheel. 3 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Love the center caps... what holds them in? I've wanted something like that for my rims but haven't bothered yet.. need to be driving mine before I worry about things like that... 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted February 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 There's a flange on the back of the cap that nests into a chamfer on the back side of the center bore. I eyeballed it, modeled it, and it was a perfect fit. They still stick out a little farther than I would like, so I'm going to make some adjustments and then print a whole set. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Very nice... I haven't even looked at my rim to see if it's possible with what I have.... I love what can be done with 3d printers these days... 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted February 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Before our company split, we had a couple Objet machines too. One of them had dual materials that could be blended into different durometers. It was amazing. You could print rubber gaskets directly onto plastic parts. I used to 3D print clear molds for molding urethane parts. You could inject colored urethane and watch it spread through the mold halves. In fact, I printed molds and molded urethane leaf bushings and pads for my roadster when I rebuilt the axle last winter. 4 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 I like those lugs, where you get them? I got some chrome plated ones from ebay and they have seen better days. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted February 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 I like those lugs, where you get them? I got some chrome plated ones from ebay and they have seen better days. Ebay. They are the black version of the ones I used to have on my Frontier. They are 7/16-20 splined "tuner" lug nuts. They come with a special socket. https://www.ebay.com/itm/24-Black-6-Spline-Drive-Tuner-Wheel-7-16-Lug-Nuts-With-6-Spline-Key-7-16-20/282689621624?hash=item41d19d4e78:g:dnsAAOSwurZZEciy&vxp=mtr 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 D.p. just becareful on the lug nuts double check yours first.. there are differences... conical vs spherical are the most common.. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted February 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 DP, what wheels are you running? Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Only the best wheels for a 521...powder coated chevy ralleys.... 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted February 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 I believe the rallye wheels are standard 60 degree conical seat. On steel wheels, I'd use bulge style lug nuts since steel wheels are thinner and there is less of a chamfer on the hole. 1 Quote Link to comment
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