Just bought a 521

[mainer311]

Well, I’ve been sick with something, it’s been cold, and work has gotten in the way. Life happens. I’ve been using the “inside time” to finish my Datsun truck model while I wait for parts to show up.

 

Notched and linked rearend. Side exit exhaust. Lowered front end. Rear axle was lost by the cat, so I had to scratch build that.

 

 

Had some silver stripe decals left over from a Shelby GT350, so I put them on the sides. Didn’t have any low-pro tires so used what it came with.

 

Made a little filler panel between the taillights. Hand painting the letters was fun.

 

Front lip was designed and 3D printed. Made the fender mirrors from scratch.

 

Hood and roof were polished all the way to 12000 grit. Didn’t have the patience to do the rest of it.

[mrbigtanker]

Wow man really cool. L series valve cover. I love the color. 

[Charlie69]

Nice work on the 620 kit.

[mainer311]

8 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

Nice work on the 620 kit.

 

Thanks dude. I'm now working on one of the 2004 JGTC 350Z Nismo racecars. 

[mainer311]

Guys, on a 521, what’s the bottom of the gas tank supposed to look like? Just one drain plug? As I was removing my drive shaft the other day, I noticed the bottom of the tank looked wet, and sure enough it smells like gas. Upon closer inspection, there appears to be the heads of screws or something, with rubber washers rotting and falling off. Maybe a shitty previous owner repair?

 

Anyone know where to get a tank, or if there is anything aftermarket that works?

[Charlie69]

Just a drain plug.

[wayno]

That is what happens when they sit for long periods of time and where they use salt on the roads, they rot away which is a auto manufacturers wet dream, they could not be happier, to sell more vehicles makes them richer.

Where you live it is tough to find parts for early Datsuns, what I did was is buy the best tank liner money can buy, I bought "Bill Hirsch alcohol resistant tank sealer" from a place in Newark NJ, I dropped the tank and cleaned the inside and outside of the tank as gently as I could using a small chain on the inside, I removed all the screws plugging the holes, I used tape(duct tape??) to plug them holes and any other hole in the tank, then I put the tank liner in the tank and moved the tank around so it covered all of the bottom and sides of the tank as the top didn't have any holes, then I poured out the what was left of the tank liner back into the container, in hind sight I should have just thrown it away as it had rust flakes in it, but live and learn, then I used my air compressor to blow any tank sealer out of the pickup tube and to clear the pickup tube area of any thick layer in that area, I did this several times over the hours that passed, if the air didn't want to come out I used an old speedo line in a drill in the pickup tube too clear it, do not let it dry in the pickup tube, as you will need a new tank if it does.

Do not let the tank sit flat as the sealer will keep flowing to the low spot where the pickup tube is, tilt it to where the worst of the holes are in the tank, after mine dried I installed it back in the truck and it worked great, the truck was a Ford Ranger that had pressurized tanks, every time I used that tank it blew a new hole in it after I fixed the last one, after that it worked flawlessly till I rolled the truck, rolling that truck was just about the best thing that ever happened to me, I hated that piece of shit truck, I bought my first Datsun truck soon after that, it became my work truck, it wasn't much better than the Ford till I put an L20b in it, that was the best upgrade I have ever made, but I put my first super head on that engine and I also put dual SUs on it at the same time, that engine/head/dual SUs lasted 15 years, and I beat the shit out of that engine all them years, and everyone on here knows it that has been on here since 2010 as I posted likely 20+ photos of the loads I put on that truck.

Here is one of them, and I did this 100+ times.

Edited March 4, 2019 by wayno

[mainer311]

Thanks Wayno. I did the same thing when I restored the fuel tank in my roadster last year. I used the KBS coatings motorcycle kit, since it is large enough for these little fuel tanks. Came out great, but was a ton of work. I was hoping I wouldn't have to go that far, but I may have to. 

[Crashtd420]

56 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

Thanks Wayno. I did the same thing when I restored the fuel tank in my roadster last year. I used the KBS coatings motorcycle kit, since it is large enough for these little fuel tanks. Came out great, but was a ton of work. I was hoping I wouldn't have to go that far, but I may have to. 

You can get it repaired,  cleaned and coated if needed....

I think I paid about 250  to have mine fixed up... 

They cleaned the inside, and coated it, and welded in a new pickup tube fitting. 

Then I used a slightly larger threaded marine pickup tube... 

[mainer311]

Today’s mission: accomplished. For such a short transmission, it sure does SUCK to get out. Ended up pulling the passenger torsion bar and bent the plate back that goes around the shifter.

 

In the process, I broke off the plastic breather. I’m going to try to drill and tap the hole for a right angle barb to put a hose on it. Thing is filthy.

 

[datzenmike]

The 4x4s use hoses on the diffs and trans cases  that go up above the frame.  Can't find one for the transmissions but not a bad idea. Transmissions get hot enough you can't hold your hand on it. If submerged in water it will cool and contract the air inside and suck water in.

[wayno]

That plate that has the shift lever hole in it comes off, you have to lift the interior floor covering to see/get to the screws, removing that plate opens it up so you can move the transmission tail far enough back and up to get the front case past the clutch cover, you also need to remove the trans mount from the cross member, the bench seat to access the plate screws, and possibly the exhaust.

The transmission in that photo doesn't look short to me, but I have not looked at one of those 4 speeds in 20 years, when I first seen your photo I thought it was an automatic.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I regularly use new Toyota breather vents in my builds. There are three sizes, but I haven't found the part number for the 5/16 size yet.

 

Toyota (large) - 90930-03136 - this one is good for 3/8" hose, but 5/16 vacuum hose will squeeze onto it.

Toyota (small) - 90930-03172 - this is 1/8" for small vacuum hose.

 

Dorman (3/8?) - https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-89204-924-284.aspx- never used this one, but it is available at most Napa stores.

[mainer311]

Uh, Wayno, the transmission is already out. And I wasn’t about to remove the goddam bench seat to pull that plate off, so I just undid the front and bent it back. Looks like someone had done that previous to me owning the truck.

[wayno]

Well if that plate is removed you do not need to remove any torsion bars, I just get a short screwdriver and stick my hand under the seat and remove any screws covered by the seat, I have done it this way for years, I even get the double whammy because I have a console with gauges in all my 520/521 rigs, it's kinda a hassle but I like the console/gauges and the tray to put small things, my 521 kingcab has even has the stereo in the console, I believe there are 3 screws under there and I move the seat forward to where it needs to be so my hand and screwdriver clear stuff under the seat, I don't remove my seat to R&R a transmission, just the plate.

I guess I have not been reading every ones threads, why did you have to remove the transmission?

[datzenmike]

 

This is the only North American long (31.5") F4W63 4 speed and it's used in the 610 only.

[mainer311]

My roadster4-speed is long like that.

 

Edited March 11, 2019 by mainer311

[mainer311]

12 hours ago, wayno said:

I guess I have not been reading every ones threads, why did you have to remove the transmission?

 

The freeze plug behind the flywheel is suspected to be leaking. I'm getting coolant weeping out the weep hole in the bottom of the bell housing.

 

I'm:

-rebuilding trans with new seals/sealing up all leaking areas

-new clutch

-new clutch slave with fancy braided line

-resurfaced flywheel

-new freeze plug(s)

-new rear main seal

-rebuilt driveshaft

-new oil pump

-refurbishing/resealing the oil pan

-new fuel pump

-all new steering

[datzenmike]

57 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

My roadster4-speed is long like that.

 

 

That's true forgot about the Roadster. On the R16, starter on left and had a flange output?

[mainer311]

32 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

That's true forgot about the Roadster. On the R16, starter on left and had a flange output?

 

Yes on the starter, no on the flange. Slip yoke on the output, since it's a one piece driveshaft. Interesting to note that the shift lever mount is also flipped around on the 521 vs. the roadster.

Edited March 11, 2019 by mainer311

[datzenmike]

Maybe the flange is on the H20? 

 

Sports car, sitting lower and farther back so better shifter location? Never thought about this but would also work on 510/521/620/710/A10s that used basically the same transmission.

[mainer311]

There are 3 position sensors on the tailhousing. Does anyone know which one is for the emissions relay system? I would like to just plug it up. What are the other ones for? Reverse lights and what else?

 

[mainer311]

So, I think I figured them all out, but I’m not sure what they all do.

 

Bottom is reverse switch. Obviously need that.

 

Middle is gear switch. Since I already ripped half of that system out, I’m guessing I don’t need that one anymore.

 

Top switch is the neutral switch on the striking rod. What does this even do? The clutch already has a safety switch, so what does the neutral switch do?

 

 

[Crashtd420]

28 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

So, I think I figured them all out, but I’m not sure what they all do.

 

Bottom is reverse switch. Obviously need that.

 

Middle is gear switch. Since I already ripped half of that system out, I’m guessing I don’t need that one anymore.

 

Top switch is the neutral switch on the striking rod. What does this even do? The clutch already has a safety switch, so what does the neutral switch do?

 

 

You are correct on reverse.... the one just above is I believe 3rd gear and connected to the emissions stuff and ya you deleted all that so not needed....

I have 2 - 4 spds, the one from my truck and a spare for parts and neither of them have the one up by the shifter so not sure there..... 

If it is neutral then it's just another safety interlock... I have the location but it's not drilled.... I wonder if its factory or if someone added that.... 

And sorry I only have 1 of the breathers or I would have hooked you up.....

 

 

[mainer311]

No worries on the breather. I drilled and tapped it today for 1/4-18 NPT. I have a 90 barbed fitting coming from Amazon, and will just put a long hose on it.