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Just bought a 521


mainer311

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Hainz, that’s the exact pump that I bought. It’s called Spectra Premium. It looks just like an original pump. Hope it works okay.

 

What brand clutches do you guys prefer? Rock Auto has a number of them. Exedy is supposed to be good isn’t it?

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I have run Stage 1 centerforce which is just a stock set up with funky weights.Wont buy that again might work if you hit 10k RPM

I also ran a Spec Clutch . Doesnt say where made, it was like a Roasdater but the disc sheared on me and left me stranded so I will never buy another.

In my 521 daily driver I have a $80-100 Exedy Daiken stock 521/510 set up. Remember its the 350KG set up. its not a perf clutch but since Im older(EZ to shift) I dont want to put execsive wear on my made in China Hydralic parts I just run the stock weak clutch. so it will last longer. I had a old slave blow out when installing a Roadster pressure plate.

 

My 510 I run a Roadster Nissanpart  650KG set up but still run the Jap made Hydraulic master and slave clyinders.

 

There is a Roadster place(datsunparts.com that sells the Daiken 600KG replacement for like $169 part# NSC 581

 

of coarse these are all the 200mm 510/521 set up and the Roadster is the same specs in height ect..........  I also use the the 510/521 adjustable slave threaded rod set up. on 4 and 5 speeds.  I just like it better

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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4 hours ago, d.p said:

You do all that on jack stands?   And I read the drama is getting the pan cover + gasket back on?  Could be wrong though. 

 

It's a bitch if that center cross member is in the way. It's not critical and can be pried off and on and it's there to support the two front ends of the torsion bars at the LCAs

UA0WNze.jpg

 

I would NOT be using any dressings on the pan gasket. I would use a small dab of RTV at the two junctions where the block and the timing cover meet and the two cracks where the rear main cap meets the block. Nissan didn't use it and if you straighten the pan gasket surface with hammer and straight edge you'll get a good seal and won't need it either. The back of the pan should have a flat L shaped strip with holes for the pan bolts to spread the torque. It fits across almost all the back and about 4 bolts up the driver's side. I found a second one flipped and trimmed it and now have the passenger side done as well.

 

Osx1oce.jpg

 

Anyway they are L shape and fit one corner. If missing the pan may have been off before and it's easy to forget to put them back on.Check the holes are not too dimpled from over tightening the bolts to seal a leak and hammer them down and check with a straight edge.

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18 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

I did mine on jack stands, a couple times, it's not that bad....

 

Word.  Now that I don't have a garage I dread working on my truck.  I have a carport but its gravel and I swear every time I work on gravel I loose something in the rocks.   Plus its a bitch to use a jack on gravel.  Hoping to turn my carport into a garage in the near future though. 

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Yeah, my plan for the transmission is to keep the driver’s side wheels on, and get the passenger side as high as I can. I’ll need room to work once the trans is out. 

 

I’m assuming the carrier bearing needs to be unbolted to be able to slide the shaft out of the trans?

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3 hours ago, mainer311 said:

Yeah, my plan for the transmission is to keep the driver’s side wheels on, and get the passenger side as high as I can. I’ll need room to work once the trans is out. 

 

I’m assuming the carrier bearing needs to be unbolted to be able to slide the shaft out of the trans?

You could actually put the front tires on ramps and then jack stands under the rear axle..... you dont need much room to get the 4 spd out.... I'll measure when I get get home how high I am off the floor ( I'm still on my jack stands) but I'll bet my tires are only a couple inches off the ground and I just swapped my trans no problem.....  and for the removal I didnt even remove the cover in the cab... once the shifter is removed, the ears it attaches to lays over out of the way.... 

 

2 things to add.... you probably have a bolt holding attaching the output flange to the transmission.....

And if you haven't thought about it,  check the pilot bearing at the end of the crank.... might be worth replacing while it's all apart......

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So just for reference..... 

My frame measured 13 inches from the floor and the rear tires were 6 inches off the ground.... as close to stock diameter for the tires and lowered 2 inches... 

 

I think your lowered 3 inches so that would give you 12 inches to the frame rail....  I was close getting the transmission out under the frame rails, had to sneak the bellhousing out close to the front tires..... 

If you can get about 15 inches of clearance to the frame rails you'll have all the room you need......

Should be possible on ramps... mine are 9 inches tall.... 

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So I was working on installing the new fuel pump today (by scraping the old gasket off) and I bumped that short L-shaped piece of hose that connects the coolant nipple to the intake manifold hard line from the front of the engine. Well, it was dry-rotted pretty bad and immediately started spewing coolant everywhere. 

 

Anyone know if this hose is still available? I tried some 3/8” hose and it’s too small. 5/8” looks way too big. Anyone know what size it is?

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That is great that you found one, as you do need that hose.

If you had to delete that hose to get it driving you could, but you would need to remove the thermostat cover and drill an 1/8th inch hole in the thermostat to let coolant bypass the thermostat itself, that is what that hose does, it lets coolant bypass the thermostat.

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43 minutes ago, wayno said:

that is what that hose does, it lets coolant bypass the thermostat.

 

I don’t have a thermostat bypass on the t-stat housing. This is strictly the return line for the manifold heater circuit. Harder to plug, since I’d have to plug the holes in the head.

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You NEED the coolant flow through the intake runners. It warms the air in the winter and removes radiated heat from the exhaust that bakes the intake in the summer. Keep an eye out for the proper thermostat housing with the bypass fitting but for now as mentioned drill an 1/8" hole in the side of the thermostat, or perhaps it already has a jiggle valve? 

 

Jiggle-valve.jpg

 

The by-pass's function is to flush out the cold water surrounding the thermostat and replace it with warming water from the head so the thermostat can sample it and open as soon as needed. Without it or the by-pass the engine can over heat because of the trapped cold water.

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