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Just bought a 521


mainer311

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Mainer does your truck diesel after you shut it off? Mine does every once and awhile but using a Weber 32/36 which doesn’t come with anti dieseling mechanism.  They do sell them though.  Ever consisder ditching that hitachi for a Weber? 

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8 hours ago, datzenmike said:

When turned off the spring should push the pin forward and seat it, blocking off fuel.

 

Right, and it’s like that all the time, because the solenoid doesn’t get power for some reason. And I know the pin is at least partially seating because I fight the spring pressure when I screw the solenoid on.

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7 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

The anti dieseling solenoid (fuel cut solenoid) only works when engine is turned off.  The design is to cut off fuel so the engine does not diesel or run on after the key is turned off.

 

I’m aware. Even when it’s “activated” my truck runs fine anyway. My truck has never dieseled, so I’m going to just ditch it and get rid of the wires. I’m a firm believer in getting rid of unnecessary crap.

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It’s more just to clean up the look and get rid of the wires that span the gap on the driver’s side. I’m kinda stumped why it’s not working. It’s a blue wire with a red stripe, and I’ve noticed that other wires with that color combo are typically hot when the ignition is on. I have access to a CNC mill and plenty of o-rings. Challenge accepted.

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The object on the side of the carburetor that looks and you would think is an anti dieseling solenoid, is not.

It is part of the crude emissions system Nissan put on USA model 521 trucks, and it is wired in to the relays, switches, and wiring that is also involved in the activation of the second retarded timing set of points in the stock dual point distributor.

Ok, I got my 1970-1971 Nissan emission control system service manual.

The carb solenoid is activated when the transmission is in gear, the throttle is closed, and the clutch pedal is not touched, that is coasting against the engine, going down hill.  

 

I think you can test operation of this solenoid by putting the truck in a forward gear, and with the engine off, but key on, the solenoid should be activated.

Edited by DanielC
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Any idea what it actually does? Does it shut off the fuel to the secondary or something?

 

I yanked half of that system out already.

 

The solenoid is back on the carb, but I took the spring and plunger out.

Edited by mainer311
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"The carb solenoid is activated when the transmission is in gear, the throttle is closed, and the clutch pedal is not touched, that is coasting against the engine, going down hill." 

 

It is not part of the secondary throttle system.  it is an extra passage in the carb, opened and closed by the solenoid.

 

Under almost all normal operation, the spring holds the plunger against a port in the carb body, closing the passage.  When the solenoid is activated, the plunger is drawn into the solenoid, opening the passage, and it gives you a faster idle, or because the engine is being driven at a higher than idle speed by the rear wheels, it allows more fuel and air into the intake manifold.

 

I would put the plunger and spring back into the solenoid, on the carb,  nor would I make a block off plate for the solenoid location.

Edited by DanielC
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The only other thing on the carb that was electrical was a switch that detected throttle position, and it was basically on or off. It was a pressure switch with a tiny roller on the end and it ran off a cam that was bolted to the butterfly shaft.

 

As far as vacuum, I’m not sure. I desmogged it, and a lot of random vacuum stuff got removed.

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Yesterday I installed a Kicker Hideaway 8” powered sub under the bench seat. Fits perfect. With such a tiny cab, it’s more than enough. I was able to apply a HPF for the front 6.5’s, and have the sub crossed over at 200Hz.

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2 hours ago, mainer311 said:

Can someone explain to me how to remove the stock 521 steering wheel? I’d like to put a thicker-rimmed, less diameter wheel on (which I bought already) and just need to get the old wheel off. 

This isn't the only place to get the manual, but you can get the factory manuals here.....

http://www.bluehandsinc.com/manuals.html

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Mocked up the wheel using the standard adapter and kit from my roadster. Sticks out too far. I designed a thinner 3 bolt to 5 bolt adapter today and will machine it once our mill frees up. My plan is to also design a filler shroud and 3D print that to fill the gap behind the wheel. It should

have full horn and turn signal cancellation once it’s done. It makes getting in and out of the truck a lot easier.

 

vXwNJaK.jpg

 

iE4TJH9.jpg

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