mainer311 Posted August 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 As a second test, I removed the pin and spring and the truck didn’t behave any differently. I think I’m going to remove the ugly ass thing and machine a block off plate. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 12, 2018 Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 Well removing the pin and spring simply opens it and allows gas down to the idle circuit, which it's doing now. When turned off the spring should push the pin forward and seat it, blocking off fuel. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted August 12, 2018 Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 The anti dieseling solenoid (fuel cut solenoid) only works when engine is turned off. The design is to cut off fuel so the engine does not diesel or run on after the key is turned off. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted August 12, 2018 Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 Mainer does your truck diesel after you shut it off? Mine does every once and awhile but using a Weber 32/36 which doesn’t come with anti dieseling mechanism. They do sell them though. Ever consisder ditching that hitachi for a Weber? Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted August 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 My hitachi works fine, so no. My truck doesn’t diesel. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted August 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 8 hours ago, datzenmike said: When turned off the spring should push the pin forward and seat it, blocking off fuel. Right, and it’s like that all the time, because the solenoid doesn’t get power for some reason. And I know the pin is at least partially seating because I fight the spring pressure when I screw the solenoid on. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted August 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 7 hours ago, Charlie69 said: The anti dieseling solenoid (fuel cut solenoid) only works when engine is turned off. The design is to cut off fuel so the engine does not diesel or run on after the key is turned off. I’m aware. Even when it’s “activated” my truck runs fine anyway. My truck has never dieseled, so I’m going to just ditch it and get rid of the wires. I’m a firm believer in getting rid of unnecessary crap. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 12, 2018 Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 Much easier to just leave alone. If you remove it you have to plug the hole. No one will know if it's working or doing anything or not. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted August 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 It’s more just to clean up the look and get rid of the wires that span the gap on the driver’s side. I’m kinda stumped why it’s not working. It’s a blue wire with a red stripe, and I’ve noticed that other wires with that color combo are typically hot when the ignition is on. I have access to a CNC mill and plenty of o-rings. Challenge accepted. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted August 12, 2018 Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 (edited) The object on the side of the carburetor that looks and you would think is an anti dieseling solenoid, is not. It is part of the crude emissions system Nissan put on USA model 521 trucks, and it is wired in to the relays, switches, and wiring that is also involved in the activation of the second retarded timing set of points in the stock dual point distributor. Ok, I got my 1970-1971 Nissan emission control system service manual. The carb solenoid is activated when the transmission is in gear, the throttle is closed, and the clutch pedal is not touched, that is coasting against the engine, going down hill. I think you can test operation of this solenoid by putting the truck in a forward gear, and with the engine off, but key on, the solenoid should be activated. Edited August 12, 2018 by DanielC Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted August 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 (edited) Any idea what it actually does? Does it shut off the fuel to the secondary or something? I yanked half of that system out already. The solenoid is back on the carb, but I took the spring and plunger out. Edited August 12, 2018 by mainer311 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted August 12, 2018 Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 (edited) "The carb solenoid is activated when the transmission is in gear, the throttle is closed, and the clutch pedal is not touched, that is coasting against the engine, going down hill." It is not part of the secondary throttle system. it is an extra passage in the carb, opened and closed by the solenoid. Under almost all normal operation, the spring holds the plunger against a port in the carb body, closing the passage. When the solenoid is activated, the plunger is drawn into the solenoid, opening the passage, and it gives you a faster idle, or because the engine is being driven at a higher than idle speed by the rear wheels, it allows more fuel and air into the intake manifold. I would put the plunger and spring back into the solenoid, on the carb, nor would I make a block off plate for the solenoid location. Edited August 12, 2018 by DanielC 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted August 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 Yeah, that makes sense. It’s been running fine with it in there, doesn’t make sense to remove it now I guess. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 13, 2018 Report Share Posted August 13, 2018 Ah I didn't think the 521 had an idle cut. It was a crude way to reduce emissions on deceleration and a forerunner of the BCDD. There may be a vacuum switch mounted on the intake and connected to it? 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted August 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2018 The only other thing on the carb that was electrical was a switch that detected throttle position, and it was basically on or off. It was a pressure switch with a tiny roller on the end and it ran off a cam that was bolted to the butterfly shaft. As far as vacuum, I’m not sure. I desmogged it, and a lot of random vacuum stuff got removed. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted August 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 Yesterday I installed a Kicker Hideaway 8” powered sub under the bench seat. Fits perfect. With such a tiny cab, it’s more than enough. I was able to apply a HPF for the front 6.5’s, and have the sub crossed over at 200Hz. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted August 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2018 Installed some yellow tint on the E-codes this morning. Vinyl installation is a very frustrating experience. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted August 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 Can someone explain to me how to remove the stock 521 steering wheel? I’d like to put a thicker-rimmed, less diameter wheel on (which I bought already) and just need to get the old wheel off. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted August 26, 2018 Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 (edited) Push the horn button in and rotate it counter clockwise and gently pull off. Remove the nut & lock washer off the shaft and pull/wiggle the wheel off. Edited August 26, 2018 by thisismatt 1 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted August 26, 2018 Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 2 hours ago, mainer311 said: Can someone explain to me how to remove the stock 521 steering wheel? I’d like to put a thicker-rimmed, less diameter wheel on (which I bought already) and just need to get the old wheel off. This isn't the only place to get the manual, but you can get the factory manuals here..... http://www.bluehandsinc.com/manuals.html 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted August 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 Mocked up the wheel using the standard adapter and kit from my roadster. Sticks out too far. I designed a thinner 3 bolt to 5 bolt adapter today and will machine it once our mill frees up. My plan is to also design a filler shroud and 3D print that to fill the gap behind the wheel. It should have full horn and turn signal cancellation once it’s done. It makes getting in and out of the truck a lot easier. 3 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted August 28, 2018 Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 Looks good, one question how do you roll the windows up and down. It looks like the crank hits the speakers. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted August 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 3 minutes ago, mrbigtanker said: Looks good, one question how do you roll the windows up and down. It looks like the crank hits the speakers. The driver’s side clears, the passenger side slightly hits. 2 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted August 28, 2018 Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 Just now, mainer311 said: The driver’s side clears, the passenger side slightly hits. Ok cool. I made new panels cover the whole door just for that reason. Doors are small. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted August 28, 2018 Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 Man hook me up with one of them steering wheel adapters ?? Meaning mill 2 of them. ? Would love to run something similar. Quote Link to comment
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