sondat Posted April 17, 2019 Report Share Posted April 17, 2019 Mainer, just curios what you use for sealer when threading sending unit and or adapter into block? I’ve just taken the sending unit out of the block to make way for the adapter. When I originally installed sending unit I used some RTV in the threads, doing this again work ok? Also going to plug extra large vacuum tube at rear of intake by removing and using brass plug but is the two different metals ok together (brass plug into aluminum intake) 1 Quote Link to comment
sondat Posted April 17, 2019 Report Share Posted April 17, 2019 Picking up a temporary straight through adapter BSPT to NPT from local parts store tomorrow (they had to bring it in). This is so we can do the initial fire up on Saturday. We did also order the T adapter you recommended from e-bay which will be here early May, thanks for the link. 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2019 I used Permatex thread sealant. It's anaerobic, so it dries when not exposed to air. It's white in color. Every time I would screw a new piece on, I would check the conduction with a multi-meter before moving onto the next piece. Brass into aluminum is perfectly fine. You can use the same sealant in that location as well. 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 20, 2019 Report Share Posted April 20, 2019 (edited) On 4/17/2019 at 8:26 AM, mainer311 said: I used Permatex thread sealant. It's anaerobic, so it dries when not exposed to air. It's white in color. Every time I would screw a new piece on, I would check the conduction with a multi-meter before moving onto the next piece. Brass into aluminum is perfectly fine. You can use the same sealant in that location as well. Did you ever posts a picture of what you sender looks like now? It this the same adapter? https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Pressure-Sensor-Adapter-Supply/dp/B07L4Q74SH/ref=sr_1_33_sspa?keywords=oil+pressure+gauge&qid=1555768061&s=automotive&sr=1-33-spons&psc=1 Edited April 20, 2019 by d.p 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2019 4 hours ago, d.p said: Did you ever posts a picture of what you sender looks like now? It this the same adapter? https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Pressure-Sensor-Adapter-Supply/dp/B07L4Q74SH/ref=sr_1_33_sspa?keywords=oil+pressure+gauge&qid=1555768061&s=automotive&sr=1-33-spons&psc=1 Yes, that’s the one. Nice find. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2019 (edited) This is about as good as I could get. It’s tight down there. Teehee. Sender wire has a ring terminal. Edited April 20, 2019 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 So that adapter you linked threads into the block, stock sender goes in the back of it and the pressure gauge goes in the side of it? What you are saying about using teflon tape and ground wire? Something about checking the voltage? 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 That’s how it goes together, yes, but I also have a 45 degree 1/8 NPT between the sender and the adapter, so it angles the sender away from the block. You have to do that because the sender is so big around. I didn’t use Teflon tape, I used Permatex pipe thread sealant. It’s a white colored liquid that dries when it experiences a lack of oxygen (just like Loctite thread locker). Luckily all of the threads are tapered so they make decent electrical contact, even with the thread sealant applied. You need to measure impedance (resistance) in ohms between the senders and the block. You want as little as possible. Mine measured 0.6 ohms, which for my meter, is basically 0 ohms. The two senders work completely differently: -the stock sender grounds when the oil pressure is very low. That is what makes the little red idiot light turn on. When the oil pressure passes the low limit, it breaks ground and creates an open circuit, shutting the lightbulb off. -the Autometer sender is just a big variable resistor that changes impedance as the oil pressure changes. When there is no oil pressure, the sender is 250 ohms. If you measure from the insulated post where the ring terminal bolts on to the engine block, you should see 250 ohms. (If you measure from the sender case to the block, it should be 0, or very small.) As the oil pressure gets higher, the impedance gets smaller and the needle goes up on the gauge. 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 Why the 2 senders? Aftermarket oil pressure gauge? Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted April 21, 2019 Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 1 hour ago, Charlie69 said: Why the 2 senders? Aftermarket oil pressure gauge? Yes he put one in. Factory is probably for low pressure light. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2019 Right. Charlie I put a gauge in to accompany the light. I recently put a new oil pump in from an early 90’s D21, so I wanted to see what it was doing. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 22, 2019 Report Share Posted April 22, 2019 Makes sense. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 22, 2019 Report Share Posted April 22, 2019 Got a link for the the '45 degree 1/8 NPT' or is that something I can find at any auto parts store? 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2019 1 hour ago, d.p said: Got a link for the the '45 degree 1/8 NPT' or is that something I can find at any auto parts store? Pretty much everyone has them. 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted April 22, 2019 Report Share Posted April 22, 2019 Any decent hardware store, home depot, lowes, etc should have them 2 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted April 23, 2019 Report Share Posted April 23, 2019 Ive looked high and low and never seen those before.lol 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 24, 2019 Report Share Posted April 24, 2019 1/8 npt 45 degree elbow Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2019 I'm about to get my hands on an Offenhauser intake manifold. I'm not sure which version carb it's for. If it's for the stock Hitachi, I'll keep it. If it's for the Weber, I'll think about changing to the Weber. I don't really like the air cleaner setup though. Didn't someone find a way to adapt the original air filter to a Weber? Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 24, 2019 Report Share Posted April 24, 2019 I heard they make no difference, be interested whether it makes any difference for you. Just get rid of the stock Hitachi/airbox, it looks stupid under the hood compared to having a weber there instead. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2019 12 minutes ago, d.p said: I heard they make no difference, be interested whether it makes any difference for you. Just get rid of the stock Hitachi/airbox, it looks stupid under the hood compared to having a weber there instead. The Weber air filter is ridiculous. It sits there on top of the engine and sucks in all of the heat-soaked air. It's a terrible design. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 24, 2019 Report Share Posted April 24, 2019 44 minutes ago, mainer311 said: The Weber air filter is ridiculous. It sits there on top of the engine and sucks in all of the heat-soaked air. It's a terrible design. Just cut a hole in your hood and install hood scoop pointing right at the filter. Would go well with your fender mirrors. Or K&N makes a plenum kit but looks just as bad as the stock intake. https://www.knfilters.com/racing/plenum.htm Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted April 24, 2019 Report Share Posted April 24, 2019 (edited) It's not that hard to adapt your stock air filter housing to a Weber, you can see I cut the stock housing out just inside the housing where the air filter element makes a seal, then I cut a round piece of sheet metal slightly larger than that hole and cut it to fit the top of the Weber then I welded it to the bottom of the stock air filter housing, you can see the spot weld(tack) marks just outside the rubber seal in the photo below. I then welded a bracket to hold the top of the air filter housing on. Not that hard to do if you have the tools, the photos are of my 1963 Datsun 320 as all my 520s/521s/720s have dual SUs or are diesels, I hate down drafts. By the way, that bracket is not near as close to the top of the carb as it looks in those photos above, remember that the top of the air filter housing is as close to the carb as that bracket is. Edited April 24, 2019 by wayno 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2019 1 hour ago, d.p said: Or K&N makes a plenum kit but looks just as bad as the stock intake. https://www.knfilters.com/racing/plenum.htm Your opinions on how things look doesn't matter to me. The stock air filter looks period correct, whether it's ugly or not. It's also functionally superior to the filter that's on the Weber. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 24, 2019 Report Share Posted April 24, 2019 1 hour ago, mainer311 said: Your opinions on how things look doesn't matter to me. The stock air filter looks period correct, whether it's ugly or not. It's also functionally superior to the filter that's on the Weber. To each their own man, put fender mirrors on it, cut you stock intake or paint it pink I really don't care. But that isn't going to stop me from voicing my opinion on it. And really how much difference is the stock air box going to make over the Weber's filter on a 95HP 4 banger? Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted April 24, 2019 Report Share Posted April 24, 2019 1 hour ago, mainer311 said: Your opinions on how things look doesn't matter to me. The stock air filter looks period correct, whether it's ugly or not. It's also functionally superior to the filter that's on the Weber. The stock air filter also covers a lot of the ugliness. I agree the K and N filter looks like shit. Put it on make it period correct and yes no horsepower difference. I prefer the L series over a KA or SR swap. So over done. 1 Quote Link to comment
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