I know a wagon chick that bought a 521. Lol

[thisismatt]

Thanks Matt! That's a great option. Looks like that seller is "out of stock" at the moment but I'll keep my eye out for similar items. Thanks for the info! 

 

There are plenty of them on ebay if you decide you want one:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Vintage-Sports-Car-Roadster-Coupe-Stainless-Steel-Inside-Rear-View-Mirror-/351266319806?hash=item51c91aadbe:g:5PoAAOSwg3FUng6H&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-HOT-ROD-VINTAGE-B0MBER-INSIDE-INTERIOR-REAR-VIEW-MIRROR-/252432147276?hash=item3ac620e34c

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Hot-Rat-Rod-Antique-Car-Truck-Inside-Interior-Rear-View-Mirror-/310583148488?hash=item485032bfc8

[wayno]

I use the same mirror as a replacement, I have found it slightly magnifies things though, takes getting used to, at first it's just weird.

I like it because one uses the stock 521 mount arm.

[d.p]

Resize your pictures, way too big.  And I have that same engine lamp but it don't work and not even sure if it did how much it would help because its so minuscule.  Good luck with a rear view mirror, I bought a NOS one off ebay for $100 a little while ago but thats the only one I have ever seen.  Side mirror just go to glass/mirror shop and have them break/cut/glue a new piece...I think it cost me $13.  

 

 

I used por-15 for my floor boards which I then covered with fat mat and carpet.  

 

 

 

[Angela]

Thanks Guys! I will look into all those suggestions. Sorry about the pics. I just moved from photobucket to imgur & am not too familiar with it yet. I'll see what I can do to resize.

[gene knight]

nice find. im jealous

[Angela]

So, today I submitted my DMV application to transfer a lovely set of Blue/Yellow California plates to my truck...can't WAIT to see them on my 521 (aka Turk 521). I picked up my side mirror from the glass shop after having replacement mirror glass cut & installed. Looks great! I then replaced the nasty spark plugs & wires & borrowed a compression test kit from the local auto parts store & did my 1st ever compression test on a car. My #'s came up 90, 100, 100, 95. Not sure what that means yet but if anybody would like to give an opinion...feel free. Valve adjustment is next. Damn, this is FUN

[Ranman72]

well compression numbers are better the higher they are 

BUT they are very close to the same which is good 

what you want is even numbers or whithin 10% which they are 

they might get better the more you drive it too 

 

and by the way you are getting alot of stuff accomplished in a short time 

kudos to you 

[Angela]

Good job. Truck looks great all east fixes. Like I said that truck was nicer then mine when I first got it. Congratulations. Angela is one of the girls I mean boys. What ever. Keep the pics coming and let's dump some cash in this bad boy. Lol

 

Hey there Ray, I forgot to tell ya...

 

YES! Let's DO "dump some cash into this bad boy"...as long as it's YOUR cash...no problemo! :poke:

[mrbigtanker]

well compression numbers are better the higher they are 

BUT they are very close to the same which is good 

what you want is even numbers or whithin 10% which they are 

they might get better the more you drive it too 

 

and by the way you are getting alot of stuff accomplished in a short time 

kudos to you

 

True but is should be higher correct. I thought the L blocks were at 160-170ish. Or am I wrong.

[mrbigtanker]

Hey there Ray, I forgot to tell ya...

 

YES! Let's DO "dump some cash into this bad boy"...as long as it's YOUR cash...no problemo! :poke:

 

Looks like your doing well already.

[Angela]

well compression numbers are better the higher they are 

BUT they are very close to the same which is good 

what you want is even numbers or whithin 10% which they are 

they might get better the more you drive it too 

 

and by the way you are getting alot of stuff accomplished in a short time 

kudos to you 

 

 

Thanks Randy! It drives so much differently than my wagon so it takes some getting used to. Enjoying doing some little something to it every chance I get :thumbup:

[Ranman72]

True but is should be higher correct. I thought the L blocks were at 160-170ish. Or am I wrong.

yes higher 

i think 160 to 180 is more normal

 

    Valve

Clearance Intake 0.08 in.

0.20 mm 0.010 in.

0.25 mm Exhaust 0.010 in.

0.25 mm 0.012 in.

0.30 mm Quick - Spec's HOME Datsun / Nissan OHC   Stock  L16 (1595 cc)   1970 -1973 PL-620   HorsePower

@ RPM 96 @ 5600 Bore X Stroke 3.27 X 2.90 Oil Press 45 - 50 (psi) Ft. lbs. Torque

@ RMP 100 @ 3600 Piston Size 3.2671 - 3.2691 in Firing Order 1, 3, 4, 2 Compression

Ratio 8.5:1 Cranking Comp 171 (psi) Block Height 265.9 Motor

Year 1970 - 1972 1972 1973 Engine

Oil 5.0 qts. 5.0 qts. 5.0 qts. Engine

Coolent 7.2 qts. 6.3 qts. 6.3 qts. Idle

Speed 700 RPM 700 RPM 800 RPM Ignition

Timming 10B 7B 8B Plug

Gap .033 in .032 in .030 in Distributor

Air Gap .020 .020 .020 Dwell

Angle 52 52 52   Page last updated on Tuesday, April 1, 2014   < BACK | 620 Tech > HOME | The 620 | Specifications | 620 Tech 

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[Angela]

yes higher 

i think 160 to 180 is more normal 

 

 

I just poked around other posts on this topic & found this info:

 

Q: What kind of compression should I be getting on my stock L16? I checked Tom Monroe's "How to rebuild your Datsun engine" it said around 180 is good? Father Haynes said somewhere between 150ish(min) to 171(max)? I checked mine today and got about 130 on one cylinder and 150-155 on the other three.

 

I also found this comment as well:

 

Just make sure when performing the test too..

*have a fully charged battery

*take out all spark plugs before cranking.

*hold open throttle all the way why cranking.

*use anti seize on threads.

*if dry test performs well no need for a wet test.

 

^^^ also valves should really be checked/adjusted before ( in a perfect world) 

 

170-180 psi is very very good on a used engine. Very healthy.

 

Mike commented: You are allowed about 10% difference between any two cylinders. 150 -15 = 135 so your 130 cylinder is a little lower than is best. Check that the valve lash is within specs on that cylinder. If it is, warm the motor and retest. If still low...squirt a tablespoon full of engine oil into that cylinder and crank over for 10 seconds and re-test. If it rises up closer to normal then the rings are loosing the compression. If not much change a valve is leaking.

A leak down test feeds compressed air into the cylinder. If you listen at the carb you can hear air escaping from a leaky intake valve. If you listen from the exhaust manifold you can hear air escaping past a leaky exhaust valve.

 

Such good information here on Ratsun  :thumbup:  So far, my engine is far from putting out those "healthy" numbers but I plan on doing it again after valve adjustment & see what happens.

[racerx]

Engine should be operating temp. And throttle wide open when doing compression test.

[Angela]

Engine should be operating temp. And throttle wide open when doing compression test.

 

Thanks racerx, I did warm it up pretty good but am not confident I had the throttle wide open. I'm gonna give it another try & head all the advice given.

 

I just noticed you have a '65 Mustang Fastback. Any pics? My crazy 68 yr old mother has one & loves it.

[racerx]

65 fastback. Sorry no pics. Have not learned how to. Do adjust your valves first, warm up really good, you or someone can step on gas or pull on gas linkage. Importantly, better to use screw in type of compression checker than plug in, more accurate. Good luck.

[d.p]

So, today I submitted my DMV application to transfer a lovely set of Blue/Yellow California plates to my truck...can't WAIT to see them on my 521 (aka Turk 521). I picked up my side mirror from the glass shop after having replacement mirror glass cut & installed. Looks great! I then replaced the nasty spark plugs & wires & borrowed a compression test kit from the local auto parts store & did my 1st ever compression test on a car. My #'s came up 90, 100, 100, 95. Not sure what that means yet but if anybody would like to give an opinion...feel free. Valve adjustment is next. Damn, this is FUN

 

Like someone else said they are within spec of each other but they do seem low.   

 

This is how I do it..

 

1. Warm engine up to operating temp 

2. Pull ignition wire from dizzy (middle going to coil)

3. Pull plugs

4. Insert compression gauge into #1

5. Hold down gas pedal and turn over 5 times - record reading

6. Repeat steps 4 & 5 for the other 3 cylinders

[thisismatt]

Just go to 4 LAPS and borrow 4 compression gauges  :rofl:

[Charlie69]

Angela everyone is fixated on compression, I say do not concern yourself with compression at this time.  Enjoy the truck drive the truck and work out the little bugs and let your bank account recover from the initial purchase.  These Datsuns will run for years with low compression as long as you keep good oil in it and change the filter and oil on a regular basis.

[Angela]

Angela everyone is fixated on compression, I say do not concern yourself with compression at this time.  Enjoy the truck drive the truck and work out the little bugs and let your bank account recover from the initial purchase.  These Datsuns will run for years with low compression as long as you keep good oil in it and change the filter and oil on a regular basis.

 

Thanks Charlie,

 

That's encouraging to hear. I hope to take good care of this truck & make sure it's still around for years to come. Yes, my wallet does need to recover after this purchase but in this particular case it's not so much of a "concern", it's that I want to get to know my Datsun...get a baseline of information. I'm keeping a log of all that I do to it to keep track of oil changes, parts, maintenance, etc. I'm getting old & my memory is not so good so, it helps me stay on top of things.

 

After the valve adjustment, getting a muffler/exhaust installed (it has none), & checking brakes all around...I'll be more confident in driving it around. The seat situation makes it difficult though. I'm only 5ft so the seat has to be up fairly close for me to reach the pedals. However, with the steering column (seemingly) being longer than my wagon, that almost puts me up against the steering wheel with no ability to recline just a bit...feels awkward. I'll have to figure that out, too.

 

Anyone know of mods done to shorten the steering column a wee bit? a 60/40 bench seat with ability to recline? Bucket seats? I really like having a bench seat but I have to adapt this thing to make it easier to drive for a little short shit like myself.

 

Ideas welcome...as always   :hmm: 

[wayno]

Try a different/smaller steering wheel first.

It's not that often I hear anyone having the seat in a 521 adjusted forward, it's a new set of problems that over 99 percent on here do not have, most need the seat farther back like me which is why I made 2 of my drivers kingcabs.

I do know that Mike shortened the steering column in the NL320 but he also installed a smaller steering wheel.

[mrbigtanker]

So I warned you about this when you bought it. Just re do the seat and move forward to reac and do what Wayne said and smaller wheel if that important. Changing to a bucket can help also and you can set mounts to meet your needs.

[Crashtd420]

I honestly forget how the bench bolts in but is it possible to shim the front two bolts that hold the bench in?

Use a small spacer and some longer bolts?

Not sure how much of a recline

You want, or even if what I said is possible with the stock bench.. just an idea...

[Charlie69]

I shortened the column in my 70 521 and my current 66 520 and the problem you run into with shortening the column is the steering wheel is lower to the floor, seat, your legs, and in my case my stomach!

 

You would have to mod the steering box for a rag joint but then you could run a 720 tilt column that would tilt the steering wheel up.  I put a 720 tilt column in my 520 but I did not like it. 

[wayno]

Wow Charlie, you don't like your tilt column?

I have a 720 tilt column in every 520/521 I own, even my work truck that has the 521 frame, but it is a power steering truck that has the 720 steering gear mounted as far forward on the 521 frame as I could get it, it's set up like a 4X4 straight axle truck that is real high with the steering arm going all the way across to the passenger side where it connects.

The 520 was a non-tilt at first but I didn't like it, so I changed it over to tilt.

I don't know for sure, but I believe that only 720 power steering trucks have tilt columns, if it doesn't have power steering it don't have a tilt column either.