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f1ndM3aTaco

The Geisha

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Crossmember bolt is still being a real pain in the ass

 

0c4DRpp8ZKKQOXoGTYyoWYCNS8dyNgyIAWm257Fu

 

So are the flange bolts on the drive shaft... :sneaky:

 

Any suggestions on either? Sawzaw the xmember bolt? Flange bolts also have very little height to them to get a proper grab on them. Been spraying them with pb blaster for days now.

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Give some heat for the nuts/bolts with heat gun or torch and get longer lever arm to bust them open. Glad to see another B310/210 on the forum!

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Give some heat for the nuts/bolts with heat gun or torch and get longer lever arm to bust them open. Glad to see another B310/210 on the forum!

I'll give it a shot. Love your build too, can't wait til I have a garage where I can weld like you are.

 

 

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Suggestions on cleaning/painting of rad without damaging?

 

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Really can't wait til the rad support can be addressed. Looks like I'll be able to keep enough of the front valence that it wont need too much chopping but I don't know, only hoping. :wacko:

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Your front looks just like what mine was  :rofl: Must be common with these. I just cleaned my rad, first checked if it was too soft or not. If you're able to poke your finger through the fins just like that, then it might be good to consider about new one or have it redone by someone (new core). But if it seems ok, i just sanded down the frames + top and bottom, sprayed zinc paint to the sidemounts because they began to rust. Then some primer and finishing color. I didn't do much with the core itself, just light spraying with mattblack spray paint to make it look a bit better  :rofl:

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Your front looks just like what mine was  :rofl: Must be common with these. I just cleaned my rad, first checked if it was too soft or not. If you're able to poke your finger through the fins just like that, then it might be good to consider about new one or have it redone by someone (new core). But if it seems ok, i just sanded down the frames + top and bottom, sprayed zinc paint to the sidemounts because they began to rust. Then some primer and finishing color. I didn't do much with the core itself, just light spraying with mattblack spray paint to make it look a bit better  :rofl:

 

I cleaned mine up a fair bit and think it will hold up. I heard grill paint, as in actual fire grill, works bretty good too.

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DNXj3RNO54RwXGa2xFXtWeE9cgMryZbv8RvSpd0j

 

Today's set up

 

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Finally smacked the exhaust out of the manifold. Gonna bring it to a shop and have them build me something similar. Considering i'm going to be driving cross country what's a good size/setup that won't destroy my ear drums? Stock really wasn't that bad in my opinion but I don't know.

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0dyfY6YBV-hxvG0qPB6q-QfT6SvVxMEVn8z_i9IR

 

Since the exhaust was out, that meant the manifolds could finally come out too.

 

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Got the intake nice and shiny with a little brushy brushy. Gonna need some more degreaser though...  :P 

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Taco doing something even hobo doesn't like doing. Walking around barefoot in grass....

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Thats great, I do the same thing.... try pulling an L20B over 30ft in soft grass and wet on a engine stand without tipping!!!

 

This is real Shade Tree mechanic work here, before Hot-Rod TV was Spike and Velocity.... Love It.

 

Keep up the pics, its good to see your real progress.

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I don't like the feel of the grass on my feet. I'll walk a gravel road barefoot over 2 steps in grass

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dZYu8UDNDbr_9Z0I9BcOCxuvduvPG7oaZ7kFQA9x

 

Got the carpet out last week or so, hosed it down to get the coolant out of it and had it rest in the sun for two days. Then I took it into my basement where I let two dehumidifiers and the heater take care of whatever moisture was left.

 

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Brushed down everything with an old exterior painting brush and followed behind with the vaccum cleaner.

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IbXp_XIpkPA36O5U-ARWV2H6Uwa5FKLEUsihUlz7

 

Reattaching the speedometer cable and the wiring behind the cluster needs really tiny hands, not fun.

 

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Replaced all the original lights with LED's. Hope they aren't anything obnoxious, just want better light than stock from 40 years ago, although will still keep them on hand considering the fact they still work.

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k7lBTtmGmvESDvtvFCilYAJFcc7829QZ7_h5DtxA

 

Finished rebuilding the heater core too. New blower motor resistor came in today, same as 720 resistor for those who want to know.

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YipWeavGkqiw9XHHjnXoUY7kHQxu5LPqXzz4h9RT

 

and the wiper bottle holder/assembly.

 

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Using copper based anti-seize on all the pieces that need it. Wiper screw too.

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Vacuuming the carpet one more time

 

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Did not have fun putting the front dash/cluster/heater core back together, but I can safely say that I know it inside out and backwards now. Dash panel finally cracked, but was expecting that to happen eventually. Not a bad crack so I can fix it too. Looked into Eastwood's dash stuff.

 

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Cracked at least 5 different screw holes in different spots, "fixed" them with an electrical soldering pen like I know Atomic has. Didn't matter how gentle I was some still cracked. What can you expect from 40 year old plastic? it really got me thinking about one day having all of these parts rendered and remade through a 3d printer using better plastic.

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UXBhSlNs5J16xDZNvClbFuAwjCqYiRyo0SaUWR6w

 

got a better idea of the rust situation today.

 

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behind spare tire compartment.

 

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Driver's side bumper/frame rail

 

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Behind rear drivers wheel. Both sides look about the same.

 

So I was thinking about how to tackle these before I put the gas tank back in and get this car back on the road. I don't care if the car has primer spots. Just want to know that the rust isn't going to get worse or at least too bad until I have the money for a proper body shop to fix it.

 

I was thinking wire wheel, brush with vinegar, wash with baking soda and water, rust converter and then maybe another coat or two of primer? Any suggestions?

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