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Spawn

KA24DE conversion issues

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I don't have any pics, but it could be done by cutting the tube and shaft from a stock column. Machine both parts, the shaft to accept a double d universal joint, the column to accept a seal. The use a double d collapsible shaft from someone like Borgeson in between.

 

It would be a considerable amount of work, but if I were to do it, I bet I could have it done in a day. Having the right tools makes jobs like this easy.

Stoffregen, can you PM me? Depending on how much something like this would run, it may be a worthwhile option to pursue. Then I wouldn't have to return my exhaust manifold or search for another alternative.

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For what it's worth the only issue I had with my header is that the o2 bung was pointed at the upper control arm mount. Routing the exhaust around the torsion bar was a little interesting but not bad.

 

Lij1XHq.jpg

 

vidKUhs.jpg

 

1Z04LMi.jpg

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Spawn: I do have pics of the 720 frame clip install Matt did on my 320 pickup, if you still want them. I have  a couple of the steering conversion he describes above I can dig up and PM to you.

 

Matt sold me the 320 truck with the framework to rebuild and install the 720 front suspension included in the deal. I went up and drove the 320, he showed me a rusty frame clip at the side of the shop, and basically we made a deal and he said "come back in a month."  Or something like that. It's too bad you are all the way in NY. When he got through with my setup, I hopped in the truck and just drove 220 miles home, without any worries at all.

 

If my KA 521 had a similar clip with the steering box on the outside of the frame , I would have room for an A/C compressor:)

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My apologies all.  I've been working a bunch of overtime at work, so it hasn't given me a lot of opportunities to work on the truck.  I did manage to get the early 720 AWD tie rods and have gotten them installed.  This has solved my oil pan clearance issues, but I obviously haven't gotten an alignment done yet, so we'll see how good the solution is.  On the surface, it looks like it will be sufficient but I did have to extend the driver's side tie rod out almost as far as I would dare to go yet still have the clamping portion hold things in place.  We'll see after everything is all done and I can get it aligned.

As for the exhaust issue, after seeing some options from others, I decided to try a whole different exhaust manifold that I just ordered yesterday.  It is essentially a manifold that can be used for turbocharging the KA24DE, and places the flange for the turbo/exhaust in the middle of the manifold (between the 2nd and 3rd cylinders).  We measured the space and it appears that it should mount in there without any interference from the steering column, but after looking more closely with the original long downpipe exhaust manifold that I had purchased, it looks more like the problem point will be getting around the torsion bar than the steering column.  The new manifold is scheduled to arrive on the 25th, so hopefully, I can get it installed around that date, and then I just need to resolve the hookup of the exhaust and figuring out the radiator.

I'll try and do my best to log on here a little more regularly to provide more timely updates.  It sucks when life gets in the way of doing the stuff you want to do!  

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Latest update:  

No progress on the truck yet, however, the new exhaust manifold came in and the initial mock-up indicates that it will be perfectly positioned to complete the exhaust work, and possibly allow me to upgrade to a turbocharger in the future (will find that out when I actually install the manifold and can get a much better look/idea of things)

 

My next issue is figuring out how to route the wiring harness through the firewall.  My buddy said that the rubber boot around the harness is maybe 3" in diameter, so I either stick with drilling a hole large enough for that to seat properly in the firewall or possibly remove that boot and use a smaller grommet setup.  What I'd like to find out from those of you that have installed the KA24DE in your 620 is how you routed the wiring harness into the cabin to plug in to the ECU?  I believe I've seen some pictures of the ECU being mounted directly below the passenger seat, but I'd also like to find out where others have mounted theirs.

 

So please feel free to comment in here to let me know where the best place to mount the ECU is as well as how best to route the harness into the cabin through the firewall.  Pictures are always good too!

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I personally put the ecu in the glove box.

 

a1TnckF.jpg

 

Pretty sure the engine harness grommet only took a 2.25" hole, although it you have a harness you could measure real quickly and find out. I personally chose to tuck the wires since I had them out anyway and made a new hole for them just down and to the passenger side of the lower heater hose.

 

bI2YlVN.jpg

 

You might as well go turbo now. No sense in making an exhaust twice.

 

UezlsCD.jpg

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UnderControl,

 

Do you have any further photos of your turbo setup?  I'm considering it, but I wasn't really planning on it, as it was just going to be to get me around and give me a bit more power for hauling stuff.  From what I understand, not only would I need to find a good turbo to install, but I'd have to upgrade injectors to ensure I get enough fuel, and then also get the ECU modified to deal with the changes (or get an ECU from NismoTune or something like that).

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Lots of pics/information in my build thread. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/58444-trucky-chan-ka-t-620-project/

 

KA swap starts at page 5, turbo install starts at page 12.

 

You are correct, you will need at least injectors and some means of tuning, nistune daughter board is a reasonable/inexpensive option. I'm assuming you got a manifold with a T25 flange so you could go with a stock sr20 turbo and sr injectors. You could probably get away with having you ecu flashed by one of a few companies out there that do that type of thing and have it be pretty close and plenty safe, but having the ability to tune to your specific build is nice.  There are of course lots of other little things you'd need and its pretty well documented around the internet if you're actually interested.

 

In the meantime keep on working on getting the swap done and post more pics.

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I will have to start looking through your build thread!

 

The exhaust manifold I got only had the option for a T3/4 flange, so that's what I ended up having to go with.  It looks like it fits quite well and still leaves enough room to plumb up the exhaust and possibly go with a turbo in the future.

MvBrcJp.jpg

 

Grmtwx1.jpg

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I actually test fit a manifold that style before finding the one I'm using. Unfortunately at least for the turbo I had with it flipped upside down like in your picture the compressor housing turbo contacted the block preventing the manifold from actually seating on the head.

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OK, here is the finished front suspension:

IZDthBM.jpg

 

And here is the finished rear suspension:

LA7puol.jpg

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Ok, not sure if this will work or not, but I've gotta try:


 

And:


 

After a couple of passes just to make sure everything is good, found that the heater core input hose wasn't clamped enough with the spring clamp so it ended up losing a bit of coolant all over the passenger side floor.  Installed a worm gear clamp and tightened it up and she was good to go after that.

 

Really need to figure out what the best exhaust components are, as I'd like to keep it relatively quiet when idling, cruising or just driving around, but then let you know when you get on the throttle that it's not just the stock L20b anymore, but something with a bit of a growl.  A buddy recommended going from the downpipe (yet to be made) into an Ultra Quiet Resonator, then through to either the currently installed muffler, or perhaps a new muffler.  I definitely don't want something that's gonna annoy the neighbors as I'm driving through the community, but when I get on it it would be nice to have a good exhaust tone.  What have you guys that have done other KA24DE swaps used for your exhaust components?

 

We did discover that the turning radius at the moment seems quite large (probably due to not having a wheel alignment yet, along with having installed the centerlink bar in the wrong spot on the Pittman and Idler arms as you can see in the previous post of mine, and having to put the tie rod ends into the center position [if anyone happens to come across a new Pittman arm, or the whole steering box with the arm, please let me know, as I would seriously consider redoing the arms to get the centerlink in the right spot and improve my turning radius.]), but it is drivable at least!

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Good to see it up and running. :)

I may have a spare arm.I will have to check my stash. 

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That suspension looks really clean, nice.

 

I ended up using a Walker "super turbo" muffler  and a 8" long Cherry Bomb glasspack as a resonator near the tailpipe. To me, it sounds great, no drone and no "farty" sounds like so many ricer cars. It's quiet under normal conditions, but sounds balls deep when I get on the gas.

 

There is a video in my build thread someplace.

.

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IZDthBM.jpg

 

I would NEVER use urethane or poly bushings on tension rods. They might as well be solid aluminum.The tension rod needs support but also needs free movement up and down at the front. Poly will restrict movement and the tension rod will be forced to flex. It's only a matter of time until metal fatigue sets in and it will snap. They were designed for tension mostly not flexing. Use rubber for this. Better sound isolation too.

 

If there is movement around those bolts they are going to wear the holes oval.

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datzenmike, unfortunately the local auto shop that I went to find the bushings for only had polyurethane ones.  They didn't have a set of bushings in rubber that I was able to find.  It was definitely a bit of a pain to get them all installed, so perhaps rubber wouldn't be so difficult.

 

Do you happen to know where I would be able to order a full set of the rubber bushings for the tension rods?

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Probably have to make them. The Dime Quarterly has an article for the poly bushings. It involves drilling 6 holes in them to make then more pliable.

 

fmP1NuV.jpg

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Probably have to make them. The Dime Quarterly has an article for the poly bushings. It involves drilling 6 holes in them to make then more pliable.

 

fmP1NuV.jpg

You wouldn't happen to have a link to that article would you?  I managed to find "The Dime Quarterly" website, but when I searched for bushings and searched for poly bushings, I couldn't find the article you are referring to.

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I recall the part number cross references to some sort of Chevy sway bar end link bushings. I bought some, but have not installed yet, I'll see if they are in my parts box in the garage.

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You don't really need the article. Take bushings, drill holes to increase flexibility, install.

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Thanks datzenmike!  Apparently I don't have authorization to view the page, but I think from your instruction of 6 x 5/16" holes drilled in an equally divided circle half way between middle and outer edge should be enough to do the trick!

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I personally don't think that the suspension flexes enough to worry about said pitfalls, but if it makes you feel better...

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