Jump to content
Moist Lightning

Important Information About Tapered Inserts

Recommended Posts

Correct me if I'm wrong Stoffregen; but maybe he's using a trashed pitman/idler arm and using it for testing purposes? :confused:

Either way, I would still make sure it fits flush.

 

Good point about bump steer. Have you test fit the new tie rod and cycled the suspension?

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post

Bump steer will remain the same, as the center link moves parallel to it's previous position. It is just below the arms now instead of above them.

 

The center link is assembly 12 in the pic. 

 

 

620-120-01.jpg

 

 

Weird that it doesn't show the idler arm assembly..... 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Yes that correct, just a spare. I measured to ensure both centerlink and outer tie rods are the same diameter. I drilled the 11/16 through the other hole which fit better than the 45/64 in the pic.

 

 

Nice, 11/16 bit is easier to get.  :)

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post

OK, thanks...I was wondering what was going on!

 

Thanks for sharing your findings. I will be doing this soon. I was going to use the goforits with TJ TREs, but with my truck being as low as it is, I don't want the center link to hit the ground before the bolt-in cross member. This gives me another option. 

I looked into this but couldn't find a m14 female, reverse threaded, tj tre to use. Did you already find the TRE's to do this?

 

I found a TRE with a regular thread but it would only fix one side:(

 

Would love the part # is you did find em.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post

I haven't begun my research yet, but the first place I'll start is studying this page from Moog. Note that you can sort by certain attributes, but it still requires visually scanning down the page. Though it may not be needed, if you find one you like, you can click on the part number to see the application. 

 

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal_outer_tie_rod_ends.asp

 

These are the "universal" TREs, and the list doesn't always include ones that are model specific. So to verify the specs of a specific model TRE, I'll go to rockauto, then get the spec I need and come back here and match what I need with other features (such as for female threads). Basically I cross-reference specs in multiple locations, but the Moog site is part of my base research. 

 

The one thing I don't like is that it's not easy to find the length of the taper. Knowing small and large is good, but I also want to see length. 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post

I haven't begun my research yet, but the first place I'll start is studying this page from Moog. Note that you can sort by certain attributes, but it still requires visually scanning down the page. Though it may not be needed, if you find one you like, you can click on the part number to see the application. 

 

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal_outer_tie_rod_ends.asp

 

These are the "universal" TREs, and the list doesn't always include ones that are model specific. So to verify the specs of a specific model TRE, I'll go to rockauto, then get the spec I need and come back here and match what I need with other features (such as for female threads). Basically I cross-reference specs in multiple locations, but the Moog site is part of my base research. 

 

The one thing I don't like is that it's not easy to find the length of the taper. Knowing small and large is good, but I also want to see length. 

 

 

Damn I did that already hahaha. used orileys to look at ones that moog no longer produce too. Maybe you'll find something I missed.

 

Post back if you do please:)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Has any one thought to ask Mike Klotz if he would be willing to design and produce the tapered insert to the secifications needed to do the flip easily and most of all safely.

 

This is great information and I suggest making this thread a sticky so it does not end up in the bowels of Ratsun.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post

Not sure if it would be worth Mikes effort, when there are other solutions available. 

 

I am keeping my eyes out for and truck and a car oil pan and pickup tubes. I want to try to develop an inexpensive rear sump pan to eliminate the need to flip the center link. 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post

Has been installed with 11/16 bit. I am quite happy with the results. Unfortunately I lost some pics due to a syncing error but should have enough still.

 

Album Link: http://imgur.com/a/rcJW9

 

lH42qlP.jpg

 

lxZlb2v.jpg

 

EDX0nvV.jpg

 

Before installing both sides, I first installed one end and tested the range of movement - Was more than pleased with results.

 

Bonus:

 

I will post a few extra things if found that weren't mentioned in any other KA swaps too

 

First thing is these fused relays (alternative to Can/Am box)

 

MPfF9LQ.jpg

 

Have a few more things to add but don't have pic's or install done.

 

Edit: 

 

I installed on l16 rubber mounts and un-altered KA mounts.

 

 

l20b mounts: Roughly 1.9"

L16 mounts: Roughly 1.5"

 

​Still needed to hammer the edge of the firewall up a tiny bit but didn't need to cut it off.

 

Transmission has 4 degrees of tilt with this mounting setup.

 

Adjustable outer's in the pic are from a early AWD 720. Later models will not work. 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post

Thought I would add a quick update as I think I completed this swap on a record low budget - total cost 1140$ CAD

 

Engine + trans +  harness + driveshaft = 400$

New clutch and other parts for engine = 300$

Engine hoist = 200$

Other parts used in install (mostly fuel system, electrical and intake) = 600$

Money made from l20b partout = 360$

 

Total = 1140$

 

I have an excel with all my transaction and exact dollar amounts although numbers above are rounded.

 

Additionally, since I haven't seen it mentioned my driveshaft uses the front half of the 240sx and the rear of a 620 shaft. Arguably needs 1" spacer although those who use a 620 shaft are already losing .6" in spline engagement.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

What bit did you use with the dremel to to open up the insert?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

No bolt on kit that I know of. Even if Low made one, you would be hard pressed to find one these days.

Share this post


Link to post

Where did you get the replacement grease boots, they look good

Share this post


Link to post

Where did you get the replacement grease boots, they look good

All new tie rod ends and idler arm from rock auto. there were a few different brands, some boots were better than others. I also over greased one and it popped so I shoved a boot from a different set on.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Am I correct to say that I get a 11/16 bit, drill through the arm holes completely, gap the inserts with a dremel cut off wheel so that they squeeze closed enough to get into the new holes and bolt it back up now flipped?

 

Thanks

MantisX

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Am I correct to say that I get a 11/16 bit, drill through the arm holes completely, gap the inserts with a dremel cut off wheel so that they squeeze closed enough to get into the new holes and bolt it back up now flipped?

 

Thanks

MantisX

 

Yup, you sir are correct.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post

Awesome, thank you sir for doing the write up and the research!

 

MantisX

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post

Did you remove your arms and drill press them or did do them with a hand held drill?

 

Thanks

MantisX

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Did you remove your arms and drill press them or did do them with a hand held drill?

 

Thanks

MantisX

 

By hand only because the pitman arm won't come off. I've heard of people breaking pullers trying to remove them. its a real pain.

 

Try yours if you have a puller, maybe you'll be lucky and it'll come off.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Well you sir are a trooper. I couldn’t get my bits to cut it. I even tried slowly increasing bit sizes. So I took the arms off the truck and to a drill press. Same result. So I’ll be taking the arms to a machine shop to do it.

 

What kind of drill bit did you use?

 

MantisX

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post

Well you sir are a trooper. I couldn’t get my bits to cut it. I even tried slowly increasing bit sizes. So I took the arms off the truck and to a drill press. Same result. So I’ll be taking the arms to a machine shop to do it.

 

What kind of drill bit did you use?

 

MantisX

 

I used a cheap princess auto bit (canadian harbor freight) Although i had to sharpen it like 10 times to get the 2 holes done. It wasn't perfect but within acceptable tolerance. Definitely a better idea to drill press. I was just being lazy since my pitman was being a c**t.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post

Well the guy that made the samurai swords on the side must've forged my steering arms because I cant drill them and one machine shop has said they cant do it. Im taking them to another machine shop but I had no idea that this would be the hardest thing about this swap! I even got a cobalt drill bit and it did better but ultimately gave out!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.