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Important Information About Tapered Inserts

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So after some research it seems all tapered inserts are made for jeep wranglers. There are three common sizes with the stock tj being the smallest.

TJ Tie Rod End - bottom of stud (larger end of taper) = .62"

620 Tie Rod End - bottom of stud (larger end of taper) = .60"

 

The Goferits used in the ka24de build are too big and will allow no pivot in the TRE.

Bellow I will post instructions on how to modify teraflex inserts to fit like stock.

These are the inserts

53360d865ae5de7e14000af5_grande.jpg?v=14
 

As you can see there is a slit that allows for expansion.
 

In order to make these fit you must open that slit with a dremel and slowly pinch it together in a vice being careful not to distort the shape.

 

 

Below I will post a before picture:

 

tqOeOu2.jpg

 

As you can see the insert goes all the way up the TRE without seating properly.

this can also be seen in acehaole_620 Ka24de Forum:

 

65eda074.jpg

 

 

Here is the after shot:

 

NARP6p8.jpg

 

Here Is stock Fitment

 

XMj6a38.jpg

 

The new outer Diameter of the insert is .7" from .75"

 

I am going to fastenal's to get a 45/64 drill bit to test these on a spare idler arm. Will update soon.

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I can see why some guys were trimming off the head of the insert.

Thanks for this :thumbup: 

 

Looking forward to results. 

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Just so we are clear, this is an alternate way of modifying the centerlink rather than flipping it and re-machining the tapers? 

 

You drill the taper all the way through, flip it, then sleeve it with these inserts?

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Just so we are clear, this is an alternate way of modifying the centerlink rather than flipping it and re-machining the tapers? 

 

You drill the taper all the way through, flip it, then sleeve it with these inserts?

Yes that is correct, additionally the teraflex don't require welding.

 

The benefits of tapered inserts over tapering are cost and ease and strength (compared to a double taper). For reaming you should weld the other side shut (before re-tapering) rather than having a double taper. Reaming should also be done on a milling machine (possibly drill press) not by hand or by drill.

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Damn it! Now what am I going to do with the goferit inserts I recently bought lol

 

If this works I'll sell them on ebay and get these. 

 

Thanks!

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Damn it! Now what am I going to do with the goferit inserts I recently bought lol

 

If this works I'll sell them on ebay and get these. 

 

Thanks!

No probs, sorry I didn't get this up sooner for ya.

 

Drill bit should be here wednesday. will update then.

 

You could maybe shave the top of them a bit but it probably won't have as much play as stock still (Especially since the rod I was testing on didn't even have a rubber boot to clear).

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Test fitment went well; will be installing on truck.

 

Image of test fitment:

 

Yb5YSsX.jpg

 

le9qqVb.jpg

 

 

Image of  secured good tierod with boot.

 

J4SQBpS.jpg

 

j7jtRX3.jpg

 

 

Image of test fitment after the good tierod was pressed in to expand

 

CvbErjB.jpg

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Excellent work. Great option, possibly the best one, definitley the cheapest :cool:

 

 

I added a link to my thread on the mounts. Hope you don't mind. 

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That link seems to just take me to this page for some reason

 

This is what I got: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/tmi-990175

Inner diameter isn't listed but the smallest outer diameter is .75"

 

Also fully tightened it went up slightly further than stock so I will be getting a 11/16 to try as they will probably be easier for most people to source too. Will update again when I get it.

 

Excellent work. Great option, possibly the best one, definitley the cheapest :cool:

 

 

I added a link to my thread on the mounts. Hope you don't mind. 

 

Thanks, glad its helpful.

 

No probs.

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Oops I was messing up some links last night while going back and for copy pasting. :lol:

 

https://teraflex.com/shop_items/528ffa7fead962f416e73022

 

 

It is the same part number that I was looking at, cheaper on summit. :cool:

 

 

Edit: fixed the link in my previous post. :lol: 

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Which insert will you try next? Link?

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Which insert will you try next? Link?

Sorry if I wasn't specific; i'm trying a small drill bit not a different insert. 

 

Original test was .703mm(45/64) new one will be .682 mm(11/16")

 

from my research there aren't any smaller insert to try.

 

If you find inserts ment for anything but a jeep or chevy 1 ton let me know and i'll check em out.

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I would still machine the tip of the insert so that it sits below the surface of the forging. If you were careful, you could knock it down on a belt sander.

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I would still machine the tip of the insert so that it sits below the surface of the forging. If you were careful, you could knock it down on a belt sander.

 

A washer between the nut and forging would also be a good idea. 

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A washer between the nut and forging would also be a good idea. 

That depends on the height of the cotter pin hole. If a washer will make it impossible for a cotter pin to be installed, then you shouldn't use a washer. And vice-versa.

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I would still machine the tip of the insert so that it sits below the surface of the forging. If you were careful, you could knock it down on a belt sander.

 

11/16 hole had better fitment. ill post pic when i install on truck an you can see. The movement should not be reduced by the lip on the insert.

 

Edit: I miss read the first time, I will sand down insert if needed to clear cotter pin.

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Wouldn't you want to take it down so that the insert couldn't possibly shift the amount it's sticking out on the nut side?

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Wouldn't you want to take it down so that the insert couldn't possibly shift the amount it's sticking out on the nut side?

Probably wouldn't be a bad idea. Realistically I don't see it happening due to the pressure but ya never know. I probably will now that you mention it, just for peace of mind.

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Wouldn't you want to take it down so that the insert couldn't possibly shift the amount it's sticking out on the nut side?

That's what I was thinking. The cotter pin thing was secondary.

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What I don't understand is why you're flipping the link at the end position of pitman and idler arms. Isn't the center link on the middle hole of those arms? If you flip the tie rods, you might be into some bump steer. And if you swap the center link position with the tie rods, your steering is going to be jacked.

 

 

Test fitment went well; will be installing on truck.

 

Image of test fitment:

 

Yb5YSsX.jpg

 

le9qqVb.jpg

 

 

Image of  secured good tierod with boot.

 

 

 

j7jtRX3.jpg

 

 

Image of test fitment after the good tierod was pressed in to expand

 

CvbErjB.jpg

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Correct me if I'm wrong; but maybe he's using a trashed pitman/idler arm and using it for testing purposes? :confused:

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What I don't understand is why you're flipping the link at the end position of pitman and idler arms. Isn't the center link on the middle hole of those arms? If you flip the tie rods, you might be into some bump steer. And if you swap the center link position with the tie rods, your steering is going to be jacked.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong Stoffregen; but maybe he's using a trashed pitman/idler arm and using it for testing purposes? :confused:

 

Yes that correct, just a spare. I measured to ensure both centerlink and outer tie rods are the same diameter. I drilled the 11/16 through the other hole which fit better than the 45/64 in the pic.

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OK, thanks...I was wondering what was going on!

 

Thanks for sharing your findings. I will be doing this soon. I was going to use the goforits with TJ TREs, but with my truck being as low as it is, I don't want the center link to hit the ground before the bolt-in cross member. This gives me another option. 

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