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Return of the Z - Bleach's 280Z turbo build (1978)


Bleach

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That's one way to do it! I guess you won't have a Nissan key anymore.

 

You can, that just costs a little more...   ^_^

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1978-240Z-260Z-280Z-Datsun-Ignition-Tumbler-Switch-with-Keys-Ships-Fr-USA/253299068950?fits=Make%3ADatsun%7CModel%3A280Z&hash=item3af9cd1016:g:kp8AAOSw4CFY8TIi&vxp=mtr

 

 

 

Can I use the internals from a 280ZX ignition and put it in the 280Z? I have a ZX parts car with key.

 

I wouldn't be at all surprised if the whole switch assembly will swap straight over. There was very little variance in the different switches. 

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I took my ignition lock to a locksmith ( Always safe and lock on 4th in Olympia to be exact) and they pulled it out no problem.. Me and Nelson dropped off two of them one morning, and they called that they were done before we got done with lunch..  They both were from the dreaded wrong key in the hole ,,,,,,,,,,,, deal.

 

Was just under $60. for both i think. 

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I can try lock bumping to remove this key, possibly adding some graphite powder lubricant.

Or put some vice grips on there, yank the key out and then see if the proper key inserts at that point. If I do this and the tumblers are destroyed then I'll try using my 280ZX tumbler assembly. (free method)

 

At the very least I can just disconnect the electronic switch at the back and use that to start the car.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. Once I get this key figured out I'll be back to working on the brakes.

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  • 1 month later...

I got the key situation resolved.

 

I removed the keyring, clamped on the largest vice grips I had, and just pulled the key out by force!

I then put plenty of graphite in the keyhole and inserted the correct key for this car. I had to tap the key a bit to gently get it set in there all the way. Eventually I was able to turn the ignition OFF and remove the key. It now opperates normally with the correct key.

 

No more testing other Datsun keys on this ignition!

 

Most weekends its raining so I haven't done anything still with figuring out why the car won't start and then I'll look at the brake booster.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I did more research on that Hilux booster. It looks to be the 2010-2015 model and the booster only fits that year range of Hilux and also the 1972-73 Toyota pickup. (strange, huh?)

No other cross-reference so I'm not going to be able to find one in a wrecking yard in the USA. That leave me with the only option to buy one new for over $120. At that price range I can pretty much buy any booster.

 

Other upgrade options include the 1974-78 280Z 2+2 booster. (large than 2-seater booster) or even the 1979-81 280ZX booster (turned 180 deg)

 

I think it will depend on what I find in a wrecking yard over the next few months. Either of those Z-car booster swaps sounds good to me and both work with the 280ZX brake master cylinder "upgrade" as well.

 

Also, my Z-car's fuel pump isn't pumping ... again

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I did more research on that Hilux booster. It looks to be the 2010-2015 model and the booster only fits that year range of Hilux and also the 1972-73 Toyota pickup. (strange, huh?)

No other cross-reference so I'm not going to be able to find one in a wrecking yard in the USA. 

 

Are they not the same as a USDM Tacoma booster? 

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Are they not the same as a USDM Tacoma booster? 

That would make the most sense but it looks like they are not the same.

 

However, the differences could be very minor and might not get in the way of an S30 install. I just don't know at this point.

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I did more research on that Hilux booster. It looks to be the 2010-2015 model and the booster only fits that year range of Hilux and also the 1972-73 Toyota pickup. (strange, huh?)

 

I think it will depend on what I find in a wrecking yard over the next few months. 

 

Car-part.com is showing a few in your area for around $80 used. Is it with the gamble? 

 

Rockauto has some for the '72-73 truck for around $100. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I tested power near the fuel pump and it shows power. I decided to just swap out the pump. I had a new pump that I put in to the 280ZX turbo so I pulled that one out, put it in the 280Z, and it started up.

I replaced the larger fuel line from the tank to pump (3/8) I also cut the wires back a bit so the pump has all new wires leading into the car and then connects to the factory harness under the seat.

 

Last I checked the brakes were still  giving lots of pedal travel before applying pressure. I've got some glue to fix the reaction disc. If the disc is in place then it was not the cause of these issues. I'll try adjusting the length of the plunger. I also have a 1981 280ZX booster I can pull and install as I've read about that as a brake booster upgrade.

 

fuelpump01.jpg r200.jpg

 

Pictured here is the R200 LSD I found recently and the coilovers pulled from the rear of a 300ZX. I left the shocks and just bought the springs, threaded sleeves, and top hats.

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Lowrider was correct. It was the reaction disk.

 

I took the booster off and shook that little rubber disk out of there. I glued it to the back of the booster with 2-part epoxy and then put it all back together. Now the car stops as great as you would expect a 40 year old Datsun to stop with factory brakes! :D

 

Another day went by and the car still runs. amazing. The suspension is very sloppy. When you get on the throttle, the car squats and wiggles at the same time. It kind of feels like driving on air bags.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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  • 1 year later...

Last fall I bought a house and moved the 280Z from Ted's place over to my own carport. I don't have a full garage but this new place does have a nicely built wood framed carport about the same size as a 2-car garage. At the rear it has an attached shed for tools and parts. Summer of 2020 I hope to expand that shed into a 1-car garage and keep the carport as it is.

 

On the Z, I removed the wood sunvisors and installed factory black sunvisors I pulled from a wrecking yard. I also replaced one front turn signal lenses. The 280Z has been up on jack stands with wheels off, waiting for some suspension work for 9 months.

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  • 3 years later...

I forgot I had this thread.

I tried some Acura TL drop springs in front but that sits too high. Tried a pair in the rear and it sits at stock ride height. I'm going to cut only about 3/4 of a coil off and then install some top hats that should drop the back a total of 3 inches. (mostly due to the low profile top hats)

 

The front suspension will get some pieced together coilovers. I bought a cheap set from eBay but I'm using springs from Summit Racing.

 

Last year I replaced a lot of the rubber fuel lines in the engine compartment. I replaced the coil and put on new spark plugs and NGK wires. It seems to run good but the exhaust still smells of fuel and/or burnt oil.

 

The engine sat untouched since November. Tonight it fired right up with hardly a crank. So that is a good sign. I'm going to hold off on the brake upgrades and just get the suspension finished all around, get the new wheels/tires installed and it should be ready for some test drives. Then I can meet up with people at a couple of these Datsun events. If it doesn't ever quit on me, I should be good for the Powerland road trip later this summer.

 

IMG-20230430-200157357-HDR.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

Front coilovers are non-adjustable. I cut off the factory spring perch but left the weld. I then clamped on an industrial pipe clamp. On top of that I put the lock rings for coilovers but without the threaded sleeve. The sleeve itself is too small diameter to fit over the strut tube but the lock rings slide on perfectly. They also keep the spring centered. The spring is 10" tall and is a brand I found on Summit Racing. 225lb

At the top is the top hat I got with the cheap coilover kit, then washers, and camber plate. The entire front pair cost me $400 in misc parts

I also added T3 roll center adjusters and new ball joints at the bottom but those are a separate cost.

IMG-20230514-165817658-HDR-1.jpg

IMG-20230515-221650604.jpg

IMG-20230526-211145805.jpg

IMG-20230527-174746914-HDR.jpg

 

On the rear, I cut 1.25 coils off the Acura drop springs. (Megan Racing) I then took off the tall top hats and installed front 280Z top hats. The front are at least 1 inch shorter. This setup uses the factory upper and lower spring perch. You can see how low it rides right now.

 

I've got some parts on order for the rear to help drop it more. I can swap parts around in the front to adjust ride height slightly.

 

IMG-20230515-213649834.jpg IMG-20230519-165019101.jpg

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I lowered the front ride height another inch, got alignment done, and drove it to Old School Reunion.

I also took off the big 280Z front bumper and somewhat mounted an old 260Z bumper. I had to clean a lot of rust off of it and straighten one side (passenger) but it still isn't quite right.

 

oldschoolreunion2023.jpg

oldschoolreunion2023-4.jpg

 

The car pings a lot under light load so I started putting premium fuel in it. I had a feeling the previous owner was running the ignition advanced way too far. After the show I checked the base timing and it was off the plate! Probably around 40 deg.

I brought it back to 15 before and it started much easier, idled smooth, but it drove like garbage. Only at high rpm did it seem to run ok which is when the centrifugal advance starts to kick in. Now I see why the ignition was advanced so much.

 

I want the car driving well just to get around to shows and go cruising. I removed the distributor and tore it down.

Here is pictured a couple 280ZX distributors but originally I disassembled the 280Z dizzy and tried to fix it.

 

IMG-20230621-214145952.jpg

 

The vacuum controller tested good but the breaker plate assembly was seized up. I cleaned it and got some lube in there without taking the three pieces apart. It started to move freely and then quickly broke apart in my hands. The center piece with three small ball bearings is plastic and it just disintegrated. Someone does 3D print replacements so I may order one in the near future.

 

1975-1978-Datsun-280z-Pick-Up-Coli-Distr

 

I have two 280ZX distributors which are considered a slight upgrade. I did not know the condition of either so I took a look at the vacuum advance components first. One had a good vacuum controller and the other had a working breaker plate. I put all the good pieces into one distributor along with the small matchbox ignition module. That wires up to the power on the coil and the factory IM is no longer used.

 

IMG-20230625-005731964-HDR.jpg

 

That worked out great! The engine started right up, nothing exploded, and I set the base timing at 15 degrees. I did not take it for a test drive yet but I hope the fully functional vacuum advance will do the trick. I also figured out during all of this that the distributor vacuum line is not supposed to go to the intake manifold but it is intended to connect to the bottom of the throttle body. By connecting it there, the timing will be more correct at idle.

 

I now decided I want to remove this large throttle body and go with the OEM throttle. I've found the smaller throttle body gives more accurate toe in response and is easier for general driving. While doing this I am going to remove the fast idle circuit and install a new boot between the throttle and AFM.

 

IMG-20230625-005742033-HDR.jpg

 

The OEM throttle body is cleaned up and that is about where I'm at now.

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