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Noll

Project THESEUS: A '74 260z

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Just a wonderful and delightful thread to observe and follow. 

 

Truly great body work!

 

I've noticed you use the 'Patch' word a lot. Seems only fair to suggest it becoming the vehicles new name? Just a thought, no disrespect, just saying.

 

 

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Do they slide in and bind or do they not go in at all?

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On 8/29/2020 at 12:35 AM, Rat-a-tat-Dat said:

Just a wonderful and delightful thread to observe and follow. 

 

Truly great body work!

 

I've noticed you use the 'Patch' word a lot. Seems only fair to suggest it becoming the vehicles new name? Just a thought, no disrespect, just saying.

 

 

 

Many thanks, I'm glad others are enjoying it too. I've honestly considered that, but I already have a friend who has a vehicle they named "Patches" - an early Bronco that is similarly welded back together from many vehicles like my Z.Would feel wrong to use the same one even if wasn't an intentional copy.

 

On 8/29/2020 at 12:42 AM, Draker said:

Do they slide in and bind or do they not go in at all?

 

The latter, here's a pic. I forced it around in the bore a bit to get a better idea of how far it was going -just past the thinner-walled section where the threads are and no farther.

 

50284794956_da4816e9d2_b.jpg

 

 

Edited by Noll

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Dang.. I you might just have to find another insert. 

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1 minute ago, Draker said:

Dang.. I you might just have to find another insert. 

 

Does indeed seem to be the case. not the end of the world, but a hassle for sure.  Just need to do a bunch of research and possibly some trial-and-error to find a pair that work and fit well, but the upside is that once I do find a good option it'll hopefully help any others in the future going the DIY route now the BZ3099's are long-since NLA.

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Kyb adjustables fit but are tight. The super cheap rock auto cheapies fit a bit better. 

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3 minutes ago, Draker said:

Kyb adjustables fit but are tight. The super cheap rock auto cheapies fit a bit better. 

 

Good to know, and those are both for housings that are shortened (hair over 13.5" inside tube length now vs the stock 15")? I don't mind cheap for now as long as performance isn't god-awful. I'll have a look through all the old 510/zx strut threads again too to see what other possibilities are there I may have glossed over the last time I looked into inserts in detail

 

Someone elsewhere recommended these (also a tight fit but he verified he's used them in  240 casings before) and they seem great, but 320$ CAD per side is rather steep for my current budget.

 

https://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/Products/Accessories/Race-Single/

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No I didn’t shorten either set of mine. I’d assume the kyb would come in several lengths though. Same with the cheap ones, maybe look for the same brand for an mr2.

 

also buy from amazon for no hassle returns if possible. If your local parts store has a good offering (doubt it) you could bring the strut in and test fit it. 
 

I looked at koni shocks as well. Look a great product but I just drive my cars occasionally. I can’t justify it.

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Fair, and amazon is always a good bet. I've had good luck with Rockauto thus far too and they're also good with returns, so will come down to price. Sadly my local autoparts stores will probably need to order stuff in, and it'll likely get a little scratched once I test-fit so they probably wouldn't want to. Likewise about Koni -  possibly eventually whenever whatever I go with wears out, but I can't justify the cost currently, as much as I may want to.

 

I just sent KYB tech support an email to ask for more info about a couple options I think should work - namely the tube diameter and body length. With any luck I'll hear back and one or the other will work, or they'll have another recommendation that will. For reference, the options I've found so far are KYB 363046  and KYB 364014.
 

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Ok, got a response from them; I'll stick it here in case it helps anyone else searching in the future - If anyone has a better place to put the info I'm all ears but I think most of the old strut dimension threads are now locked/stickied so I can't comment there.

 

-----------------------

 

Based on the details you have provided, I would recommend taking a look at our 365041. Below are the requested specs:

 

Part Number

Extended Length

Compressed Length

Body Length

Body Size (Outside)

363046

21.38"

14.61"

14.13"

38.1mm

364014

21.14"

14.41"

12.95"

42.7mm

365041

20.04"

13.62"

13.5"

42.7mm

 

 

The 365041's are for the front of an AE86, definitely something I should have considered in my research before but good to know now regardless.  The '85 MR2 rears (363046) will be a tad long (although might work if I shave the bottom "cup" down) but would be a solid option for someone who doesn't want to cut their housing as short as I did, and the 364014's (late 80's VW jetta) will work in my case with a spacer or for anyone who wants to cut even more out.

Edited by Noll
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Glad to hear the company was willing to help you out. Sounds like great customer service!

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On 8/31/2020 at 8:10 PM, Draker said:

Glad to hear the company was willing to help you out. Sounds like great customer service!

 

Indeed, and they got back to me pretty much immediately which was great. I have a set of the AE86 inserts on the way now, hopefully to arrive within a few days.

 

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Haven't posted much progress for the last little bit; not because I've not being doing anything but rather that it's not been anything particularly interesting. Finished taking apart the rear CVs, removing rear springs, cleaning up the bushing seats on the rear LCAs, and going general cleanup. Back to more welding now though!

Made some front bumper mount plates:

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Welded on, as well as the front upper frame horn section.

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Mostly cleaned up:

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Just a couple more small things to do and the driver's side of the engine bay will be all done.

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Realized that before I go any further with finishing adding structure to the front end, I should fit the fenders and hood to make sure everything lines up. Small amounnt of tweaking was required, but it all sits nicely now.

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Figured while I was at it I might as well throw the rest of the front end together.

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Now that I've adjusted stuff a bit the rad support sits even better which is nice.

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The ae86 inserts also just arrived, and the fit perfectly which is awesome. I'll need a ~2mm spacer at the bottom of the strut tube so I can properly snug up the gland nuts and then the front will be complete.

50305793138_9fbe75a019_b.jpg

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Lots of small stuff that needed doing in the engine-bay area today. Removed the wiper linkage at long last, ground off a bunch of captive nuts with snapped-off-bolts in them from the fenders and welded in new ones (no pics, because that's boring), and then addressed the rust around the hood latch mount:

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too pitted for my liking, so time for new metal.

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And back on, using the spot welds as a reference point.

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Finally got around to fixing that  hole in the strut tower:

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This part of the windshield frame was always slightly off, and I didn't want to have to build up masses of filler to make the seal fit properly when the time comes for reassembly.

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And so, much shopping and welding later, we have this. Still imperfect, but a whole lot closer to how it should be. May do another round of tweaking, or might just call it good and either lead it or use some filler to finish (I have no experience in lead filler but I'm sure I can figure it out).

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Compared to the other side:

50340068066_137936edbe_b.jpg

Edited by Noll
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Duncan did his whole 510 using non lead metal body filler.  You can look at his thread and probably hit him up for some know how.

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On 9/16/2020 at 12:49 AM, Lockleaf said:

Duncan did his whole 510 using non lead metal body filler.  You can look at his thread and probably hit him up for some know how.

 

 

Oh sweet, that'd be some super useful info. Happen to have a link to the specific thread?

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