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tuckfoo

Ignition problem car not starting

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All right so I did a oil change on the car and to prime the oil filter I pulled the coil wire off so it wouldn't start I put it back on and later tried to start the car and it would not start, sometimes when I let off it would backfire out of the backfire out of the carburetorand shootout White smoke now it'll turn over and it's not sparking when it's turning over but if I bump it right before the starter kicks it will spark

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Primed the filter of a car that holds 4 qts of oil?

 

 

 

Sounds legit.

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All you need do is half fill the new oil filter and spin it on. You don't even 'need' to do this but I do.

 

 

 

The high tension wire? Did you have to pull hard on it? Possibly you damaged it internally.

 

Probably flooded. Try it tomorrow or pull plugs and clean them. Hold choke open when cranking..

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where you cheacking  for spark?

 

if coil wire maybe you have a gap?

 

 

if one does a oil change why would you prime the pump??????????????? They don't do this at Jiffy lube?  I have never done this

 

theres enough oil in the system already even with the oil drained

 

 

 

If car start when key in start and snaps back to ON and motor stops then the ON, wire from ballast to coil is open.

If want to run when key snaps to ON then Hot start wire is open

 

wiggle behind key switch

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Pertronix in it?  Did you leave the key on for a while?  That'll give you one and only one spark when it fails.  

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A Pertronix WILL fail using ANY coil wiring arrangement IF you leave the key on for an extended time - which is entirely dependent on where the magnets lie in relation to the module.  If a magnet is aligned with the pickup, it will be damaged in minutes.  In any other orientation it will be damaged in a few hours - like leaving the key on overnight.  In most cases, you will get one spark and only one after a failure, which makes diagnostics difficult if you check for spark manually.  

 

Check Ohms on whatever wire you removed.  A power wire should read 0 Ohms, the high tension wire should be under 5000.  If you don't know how to do this, watch a YouTube video and learn.  

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The Nissan matchbox EI has a special circuit that shuts it off if the ignition is left on and the engine not started. So does the HEI module. You can leave the key on with them. The dwell time increases with RPM as well and there is a current limiting circuit. There's a lot of things built into the EI..

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There's a lot of things built into the EI..

 

...including timing retard above 4000 rpm that translates into lost power when you need it most.  They do have a better advance curve than most of the points distirbutors however, and that's why it actually will run better than a stock points distributor.  If you modify the points distirbutor to have the same (or better) advance curve as the EI, then points will outperform the electronics.  I'll take a Matchbox distributor along to Bonneville in August and we'll test the difference in a real-world comparison, time permitting.  

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There's no retard on the EI or the manuals would have a procedure to check for it. It does automatically increase dwell time though.

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Timing retard is a factor of how quickly the module can read the trigger wheel.  When it can't keep up at higher rpm, timing retards.  Timing also retards momentarily at low rpm, causing a hiccup just off idle.  Its by no means a perfect system.  Its just another version of the Chevy HEI that everyone knows is crap over 5000 rpm.  The manuals aren't going to show you how to check for faults that are unintentionally part of the design.  Even in a perfect world, you can't eliminate this retard if you use this electronic system.  That's why I put the points distributor in my race truck.  Its the best Datsun offered.  

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i am getting 12 volts to the hot side of the coil the coil wire is good i have changed the coil ballast resistor and tried a different ignition switch 

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Love it when peeps ask for help and as time goes on, no news, go figure.

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ive been working on it i got a new petronix ignition for it and it didn't change any thing, thank you guys so much for helping ,would anyone have a ignition wiring diagram a lot of this wiring looks pretty ghetto rigged

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12V into a 1.5 Ohm ballast resistor, which feeds the coil + terminal.  Pertronix red to +, black to -.  Nothing else hooked to the coil, so if you have a tach, that's left out of the circuit.  

 

You should be able to put a volt meter from the - terminal at the coil to ground on the engine and watch the signal go from 12 to 0 as the trigger wheel turns and signals the coil, while cranking the engine.  

 

If that's working, the problem is with your coil not producing spark, the rotor grounding the spark to the distirbutor shaft, corrosion in the cap, or a high resistance or bad set of new or used plug wires.  

Make sure the plugs are non-resistor type and clean/new gapped to .032".  

 

From there if the timing is right, it will start.  If it coughs through the carbs timing is too advanced.  Backfire out the exhaust timing is retarded.  

 

Then again, are you sure there's no spark and its not fuel starvation?   

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