ErickwithnoK Posted May 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Meant 32/36 is progressive and 38/38 is syncorous One is better than the other? Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 On a 38/38, both butterflies open at same time. It would be much like running a single DCOE. On a 32/36, the 32 opens before it starts opening the 36. Make sense now? And don't just email Isky. Call them. And talk. You know...how people used to do it. Explain what you want your car to do. How you'll be driving it. What you want out of it. You are getting there...and learning for the time being. You are still a ways away from building a boss motor. Just picking the best parts and throwing them in a box won't net the best results. Everything has to work together. One part effects the next, and the next, and the next... Keep reading. Keep asking questions. Build a cheap motor. Get that under your belt first. Start it up. Feel accomplished. Drive it. Feel it. Cheers. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 A down draft carb is a down draft carb, most by a new Weber and put it on and call it awesome, but it's a new carb replacing an old carb, if you bought a new OEM carb and replaced your old shitty carb you would likely say that was awesome also, as it is a new carb that works properly, in the end it's just a down draft carb. I replaced my old rebuilt Niki carb with a new Weber and it runs way better than the rebuilt OEM carb, but I am not going to call it awesome. I like dual SUs, they look good/interesting, I understand how to adjust them and there is plenty of literature out there about adjusting them, and they stay adjusted, it's really quite simple. I just recently converted over to dual SUs on my 520 with an L20b in it, it was a pain in the ass to convert over to them as I had to put a 521 pedal assembly into my 520, but it was worth it, it starts predictably and has more power than the Weber that was on it, but I believe if I put another head on the engine with the dual SUs it will come to life, Keith says it is fast, but I know it can be faster with a proper head. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Dude! I know where my limits are with mine...and I was having a blast chasing you. You had the bigger motor...and I knew we both could have gone further in to the power. Maybe I should have said "really peppy" when I mentioned it. I'll be missing Canby this year, so maybe I'll do Blue Lake again. With a better running truck this time...although my 521 was quite the champ last August. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 38/38 would probably be better if you put a hipo cam and redo head...u can also contact pierce manifold in gilroy, .ca. They know their stuff just make sure that if you do buy a weber its the real thing. Fake ones like empi will claim to be "like Weber" but it's not. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 A lot will will depend on how thick ur wallet is, if your a purist, your skill set, place to work on, like a garage and time. When i said purist, They Will stay with L series engine and maybe some mods. Some will do a KA or SR swap, restomod, not easy. I'm with flat cat,when he said build a cheap motor first. Most important do the math,add things up with head job, cam, carb...then see how much hp/torque it will pull. Can't find it but not sure if it was ratsun or dime quarterly and someone posted real HP after some mods on datsun engine. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Something like this.. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Yep...that's the one... Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Also....have fun playing with this... http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 I couldn't make that thing work for me. Don't you have to convert mm to inches or something? Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Eric, do yourself a huge favor, call Bob Drummond, he has 30 years experience working with Dave Rebello, he's currently building a stroker for one of our local guys, he's done few heads for us already and a short block, this guy's shop is a gearhead's dream, he builds all kinds of motors and he does it for fun, so his prices are very good, call him and pick his brain. https://g.co/kgs/T89k4B Everyone has given you good advice here, now you need to decide. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Give him time to marinate on the build. Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Bob won't pressure you to do anything, he will make it very easy for you to understand on what you need to accomplish what you want, he's not in it for the money, he's retired and having fun building motors. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 There are sooooooo many options with an L series it's easy to change your mind 3 times in a day as new info surfaces. Start with a good solid rebuild and add to it later as needed. Build a head on the side and swap it on in a morning. Swap a cam in any time. Intake and carb(s) any time. Hell build an LZ22 block up on the side. Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted May 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Fantastic information. I'll definitely contact Bob and Isky. Thanks so much for the contacts guys. Mild is my goal for now and I do have a lot of great information. Since I'm gonna wait until after Canby to start buying parts I have time to change my mind a hundred times as I get new information between now and then. For now a weber 38, reground cam @280 duration, valve job, rebuild, 86mm 280zx pistons and port matching is the current plan. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 I think Isky has new cams on the shelf last time someone ordered I would do this as a side motor to keep your current truck running as findin a good machine shop is also KEY. Believe me.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted May 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 I think Isky has new cams on the shelf last time someone ordered I would do this as a side motor to keep your current truck running as findin a good machine shop is also KEY. Believe me.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yeah I'm planning on calling them and seeing what they think I need for my application, they have cams on their site but they look like race cams that would be too extreme Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 they have a 475/275 and a 480/280 I think Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted May 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 they have a 475/275 and a 480/280 I think Meaning 480 lift 280 duration? 1 Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted May 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Played with that engine building tool at OZDAT.com [/url]">http://http://s1253.photobucket.com/user/erickwithnok/media/Motor_zps1a1oc3xi.jpg.html'> Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Played with that engine building tool at OZDAT.com [/url]">http:// Wrong pistons. 280zx NA pistons have zero dish. Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted May 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Wrong pistons. 280zx NA pistons have zero dish. Thanks for catching that. After changing to the flat top pistons my compression ratio is at 10. Too much? I have no problem buying premium fuel Quote Link to comment
ErickwithnoK Posted May 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 I'd rock it. Getting excited now. Hopefully I'll hear back from Drummond automotive tomorrow and see what they have to say. There's all sorts of things to spend money on at Robello's website as well...hold me back Quote Link to comment
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