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Stupid crazy shit Ford Explorer

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I picked up a 98 Ford Explorer that's been parked for years do to the owner getting a crazy high quote for a leaking rear axle bearing.

 

Bought for $250 

Clean Title

Lost keys

Will need axle saver bearing at best or axle and bearing at worst (I hope)

 

Trying to be in it for under $500 dollars to use in a $500 car event.

 

So I have no keys and replacement quote for computer clipped keys is over $200.

 

From what I can find without the proper chipped key signaling the computer the engine will turn over and fire the plugs but will not send a signal to the injectors.

 

Clearly the smart thing would be to pay for a proper key but for the sake of doing something crazy, thinking like someone deep in the bowels of the Soviet Union or some third world country, and the sure joy of getting around the computer...

 

What if I remove the butterfly blade from the throttle body leaving the shaft and TPS in place, reduce fuel pressure and mount a carb to the front of the throttle body (Cuting hole in the hood is fine) with the carb linkage synced to the throttle body so closed is closed and WOT is WOT for both?

 

Not asking if this is a good idea because it's clearly not, just asking if it could work and be reasonably drivable for crazy shit points.

 

 

7671c356-975f-446b-8ac9-b99806cbf0ca_zps

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I picked up a 98 Ford Explorer that's been parked for years do to the owner getting a crazy high quote for a leaking rear axle bearing.

 

Bought for $250 

Clean Title

Lost keys

Will need axle saver bearing at best or axle and bearing at worst (I hope)

 

Trying to be in it for under $500 dollars to use in a $500 car event.

 

So I have no keys and replacement quote for computer clipped keys is over $200.

 

From what I can find without the proper chipped key signaling the computer the engine will turn over and fire the plugs but will not send a signal to the injectors.

 

Clearly the smart thing would be to pay for a proper key but for the sake of doing something crazy, thinking like someone deep in the bowels of the Soviet Union or some third world country, and the sure joy of getting around the computer...

 

What if I remove the butterfly blade from the throttle body leaving the shaft and TPS in place, reduce fuel pressure and mount a carb to the front of the throttle body (Cuting hole in the hood is fine) with the carb linkage synced to the throttle body so closed is closed and WOT is WOT for both?

 

Not asking if this is a good idea because it's clearly not, just asking if it could work and be reasonably drivable for crazy shit points.

 

 

7671c356-975f-446b-8ac9-b99806cbf0ca_zps

 

 

Gambler $500 truck lol

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 just asking if it could work and be reasonably drivable

 

My money is on no. 

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I bought this off ebay for $14 including shipping

 

s-l1600_zps1k3mcoxs.jpg

 

Thanks for the link.

The Explorer forum thread starts out sounding exactly like what I need but the responses all conclude with what I have read everywhere else that you first need to have a working key to program another yourself. This leaves me with paying someone with the software to talk to the PATS system.

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Gonna cost you $500 in gas to complete the gambler 500.

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96 to early 98 can be programmed with 1 key, not that you have even one key.  Ford changed it to 2 keys later after they figured out that meant valets could easily add a key while in their lot.

 

You should be able to follow the new master key learn process and have it work, it just a long boring process with the long waits in-between steps and high chance of missing the 5 minute windows for the next step due to nodding off lol.

 

 

Not sure if you know this already but the PATS system isn't in the tumbler, it's the weird ring mounted around the tumbler in the column.  Once at least one key is programmed you can remove that ring, zip tie a working key to it (you can cut off the "key" part to make it easier), stuff it in the lower dash, and then use any normal non-chipped key to start the vehicle.  It also means any idiot with a screwdriver can start it too, as you have completely bypassed the system permanently.  This was also the normal method used to bypass the systems in the early days of installing aftermarket remote starts in these vehicles.

 

There are a couple vids on YouTube that explain how to bypass the controls on the motor as well, so then there is no need for a PATS chipped key at all.  It's somewhat involved, digging into control boxes and rerouting the wires as needed but it seems less involved with a higher chance of success than the carb mounted on a throttle body technique.

 

The last option I would throw out is to find the compatible intake from an earlier non-EFI, non-PATS engine and go that route.  Should be able to stay low on the costs to stay within the "regs" of the $500 car.  Could also sell off some unneeded parts to offset the costs too, very commonly done.

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Gonna cost you $500 in gas to complete the gambler 500.

We've talked about doing the Gambler 500 as it looks to be a lot more fun. This is for the Oregon 500/500 which is similar but has become much more low key. There's supposed to be a new route planner and we're hoping they give some more crazy back roads this year.

 

$500 is for only the core vehicle before making it kind of safe

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96 to early 98 can be programmed with 1 key, not that you have even one key.  Ford changed it to 2 keys later after they figured out that meant valets could easily add a key while in their lot.

 

You should be able to follow the new master key learn process and have it work, it just a long boring process with the long waits in-between steps and high chance of missing the 5 minute windows for the next step due to nodding off lol.

 

 

Not sure if you know this already but the PATS system isn't in the tumbler, it's the weird ring mounted around the tumbler in the column.  Once at least one key is programmed you can remove that ring, zip tie a working key to it (you can cut off the "key" part to make it easier), stuff it in the lower dash, and then use any normal non-chipped key to start the vehicle.  It also means any idiot with a screwdriver can start it too, as you have completely bypassed the system permanently.  This was also the normal method used to bypass the systems in the early days of installing aftermarket remote starts in these vehicles.

 

There are a couple vids on YouTube that explain how to bypass the controls on the motor as well, so then there is no need for a PATS chipped key at all.  It's somewhat involved, digging into control boxes and rerouting the wires as needed but it seems less involved with a higher chance of success than the carb mounted on a throttle body technique.

 

The last option I would throw out is to find the compatible intake from an earlier non-EFI, non-PATS engine and go that route.  Should be able to stay low on the costs to stay within the "regs" of the $500 car.  Could also sell off some unneeded parts to offset the costs too, very commonly done.

I'll have to give it a shot. be great if it works.

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So after more research, it's a no go on the carb intake swap.

 

Seems quite a few people would like one, but there is no easy way to do it.

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On the upside I did trade out the 16" wheels with good tires for some not so good 15" wheels and tires and got $200 in the deal so I'm only in $50 at the moment. And I have a OK set of 15" tires I can use (that are on another truck I drove home for $250 'cause Race Car, I mean beat pile with blow head gasket)

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So after more research, it's a no go on the carb intake swap.

 

Seems quite a few people would like one, but there is no easy way to do it.

My thought was to not let the computer know the carb was there. Not saying it would have worked but there would have been some street cred points for showing with such a whacked configuration

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My thought was to not let the computer know the carb was there. Not saying it would have worked but there would have been some street cred points for showing with such a whacked configuration

 

What I found was some similar threads on TheRangerStation forum talking about using a sidedraft carb on a custom adapter in place of the TB altogether.  Who knows, it just might work lol.  There were many other issues to overcome as well, no dist, a way to false the TPS, blah, blah, blah, so many electronic controls to bypass.  I don't know if there is a way to strip it back to no computer at all, especially with the lack of a distributor.

 

Also found this, it might be helpful in some way.

 

https://www.scribd.com/doc/63952760/How-to-Bypass-Ford-Anti-Theft-System

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What I found was some similar threads on TheRangerStation forum talking about using a sidedraft carb on a custom adapter in place of the TB altogether.  Who knows, it just might work lol.  There were many other issues to overcome as well, no dist, a way to false the TPS, blah, blah, blah, so many electronic controls to bypass.  I don't know if there is a way to strip it back to no computer at all, especially with the lack of a distributor.

 

Also found this, it might be helpful in some way.

 

https://www.scribd.com/doc/63952760/How-to-Bypass-Ford-Anti-Theft-System

The computer just senses and controls to many things

 

That link is more good info, Thanks

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So after more research, it's a no go on the carb intake swap.

 

especially with the lack of a distributor.

 

We used one of these engines in a B210. Used an Edelbrock intake, basic 4bbl Holley, and an aftermarket distributor (GM HEI based). 

 

The real problem isn't the lack of a distributor (which can easily be overcome), it's the lack of any timing marks. We ended up fabbing our own. 

 

20140726_120258.jpg

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We used one of these engines in a B210. Used an Edelbrock intake, basic 4bbl Holley, and an aftermarket distributor (GM HEI based). 

 

The real problem isn't the lack of a distributor (which can easily be overcome), it's the lack of any timing marks. We ended up fabbing our own. 

Hopefully this engine and rearend will get a new home one day

 

But first things first

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We used one of these engines in a B210. Used an Edelbrock intake, basic 4bbl Holley, and an aftermarket distributor (GM HEI based). 

 

The real problem isn't the lack of a distributor (which can easily be overcome), it's the lack of any timing marks. We ended up fabbing our own. 

 

20140726_120258.jpg

 

Is that a 4.0l Cologne V6?

 

I couldn't find any Edelbrock intakes for the 4.0l

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May have answered the above question myself, haha.

 

Check post number 15

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/388981-4-barrel-intake.html

 

 

 

I wish you the best of luck in finding a "cheap" way to make this work. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There's always the cheat and lie about the actual money spent option as well, worst case you get hit with one of the funny "punishments" to even it out if caught.

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Is that a 4.0l Cologne V6?

 

I couldn't find any Edelbrock intakes for the 4.0l

 

That's a 5.0 V8. 

 

 

Could've sworn Dablist told me his was a V8...

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That's a 5.0 V8. 

 

 

Could've sworn Dablist told me his was a V8...

Yes

 

5.0 Explorer's seem to be popular donors for the 80's 5.0 Mustang crowd

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That's a 5.0 V8. 

 

 

Could've sworn Dablist told me his was a V8...

 

 

Yes

 

5.0 Explorer's seem to be popular donors for the 80's 5.0 Mustang crowd

 

 

 

Aaaaahhhh, disregard what I've said then about the carb swap but not the PATS crap, as I assumed, hate when I do that, it was the V6 model.

 

Changing a 302 over to carb would be cake. As proven by datsunfreaks post haha

 

 

Yes, they are popular as the EFI intake matches that of the GT40 setup, by part number and all.

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So I ordered a pair of uncut chipped keys for from ebay for $13 and after deep research on programming a new chipped key all DIY options require a you first already have a working key to add another. Found a locksmith to come out on Saturday for $100 cash to plug in to the computer and program it in. A second key would have been another fee so I used a trick from youtube with the one working key.

I had already removed the ring around the ingnition switch that senses the chipped key to replace the switch so I attached the new chipped key to it and will zip tie it up under the dash. This lets me use the ignition switch and standard keys I had bought before and any new keys going forward will be cheap un-chipped keys.

 

IMG_20170430_121731814_zpszxjh6xk2.jpg

 

This is what the locksmith used to program the new key in. Found them for less than a hundred dollars, hmmmm

 

3268_P_1414029203911_zpsj4czzqjx.jpg

 

So it starts right up and runs smooth on three year old gas  :thumbup:

 

Pulled the rear axle to find it already had a axle saver bearing that had failed and messed up the axle shaft so off to the closest wrecking yard. They had three Explorers but only one they would let me take a rear axle shaft from and there cars where all siting on the ground with out wheels, not stacked on bare rims, more joy. Got the car up and the shaft out to find it was badly pitted.

Didn't want to drive another hour to the next wrecking year to take my chances so RockAuto to the rescue, $110 new axle shaft to my door.

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So this thing has C-clip rear axles shafts with bearings that press into the housing not onto the shaft. With the passenger side having spun a wheel bearing damaging the housing there wasn't really much of a press fit to the install so we put the bearing into the housing with liberal use of JB Weld and made a retaining ring to hold pressure against the seal. We added a steel collar inside the seal shell to transfer the pressure to the bearing with out crushing the seal. Didn't get many pictures as a friend was doing the install while I was putting the bearings on the pumpkin and pinion in.

 

Ford 8.8 looks like this

 

 

IMG_0405_zpslzsmc3vb.jpg

 

The retaining ring we made bolts onto two of the bolts that hold the backing plate on

 

IMG_20170516_193244773_zpsmjq9hj3u.jpg

 

This thing isn't that bad to us who rescue old cars but for the previous owner it was time to walk away

 

IMG_20170524_175444436_HDR_zpsllcmud4t.j

IMG_20170524_175521362_zpsj6pc6pny.jpg

IMG_20170524_175537839_zps4vnymk7y.jpg

IMG_20170524_175622998_HDR_zpslevg1lh8.j

 

Been driving it to work all week with a can of coffee open in the back

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just need a good cleanup

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just need a good cleanup

I did the inside 

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