d.p Posted October 11, 2017 Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 Had a coupled days at home, took advantage by pulling an L20 out of a farmers Datsun collection. Anyone need 620 wagon parts? Here are some photos I snapped during this years tour, building relationships :D Great picture right there. 2 Quote Link to comment
Donedreamin Posted October 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 I do not. There are 3 LHD 620 wagons, 1 510 wagon and a few 620 trucks as well. They are in rougher shape but they are complete. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted October 11, 2017 Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 There really is no such thing as a 620 wagon, some folks over in Japan made a couple of them but Datsun/Nissan never made them as far as I know. There is such a thing as a 610 wagon, lots of them were shipped/imported here. 1 Quote Link to comment
Donedreamin Posted October 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 There really is no such thing as a 620 wagon, some folks over in Japan made a couple of them but Datsun/Nissan never made them as far as I know. There is such a thing as a 610 wagon, lots of them were shipped/imported here. My mistake, I did some research and they are 710 wagons 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 This the yard on the south side of the Trans Canada near the Alta border? 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 14, 2017 Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 The pale yellow car sure looks like a 610 with the corner marker lights missing. The blue one behind it sure looks like a 610 grill 2 Quote Link to comment
Donedreamin Posted April 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 I decided to dive back into this. I knew there was an issue with my clutch setup, it's clear the release bearing failed. I'm not sure if it failed because I had the wrong setup, installed incorrectly or part failure. I had a clutch kit for a 620, which included the release bearing, clutch, pressure plate. I am using a 4-speed out of the 521 along with the fork. I am planning to swap in a 5-speed out of a 280z, can someone verify the combination of clutch parts I should have so I don't make this mistake again?I would like to re-use my clutch, flywheel and pressure plate. If I use the 5-speed (out of a 280z) do I need the release bearing designed for the fork(280z) or for the pressure plate(620)? 1 Quote Link to comment
xxmass Posted April 27, 2018 Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 There is far too much 5spd swap information to get reposted here. Use google and your subject followed by ratsun. Here is a short clip that i collected and stored in my notes. I can’t give credit to the author but it is ratsun.net material. “ou use the fork that goes with the transmission, you use the throwout bearing collar that goes with the clutch cover(pressure plate), the disc should match the clutch cover.” ...the slave cylinder should also match the trans and fork. 3 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 28, 2018 Report Share Posted April 28, 2018 If the collar worked with that clutch the 280 5 speeds will just bolt right up. Possibly that collar was the cause of the bearing failure??? 2 Quote Link to comment
Donedreamin Posted May 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2018 Bad news. I did a leakdown test on the "new" motor, that came out of a 620 camper. Speaking of which do these motors have an upgraded cam? The previous owner mentioned this but I haven't found any truth behind it. Nonetheless it seems I am leaking from the exhaust valve, I triple checked all of my valve adjustments and I suspect a burnt valve. I picked up an engine manual and timing chain wedge tool and was doing some research on cam timing and started tinkering a bit and I seem to be a little confused. I have set cylinder one to TDC and my understanding is I need to line up the "sprocket timing notch lines up with the right end of the plate's timing groove". My issue is, call me retarded but I can't seem to locate the timing groove. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 18, 2018 Report Share Posted May 18, 2018 Backwards or upside down. 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 18, 2018 Report Share Posted May 18, 2018 Did you actually start and run this engine to get it up to operating temperature. If the engine will run start it up let it get to operating temperature and runt he rpm up to 1500 to 2000 rpm and hold it there trickle a little water throught the top of the carb maintaining the high rpm trickle a couple ounces of water through it. let it run a little after you finish trickling the water through the carb. This de carbons the head and pistons eliminating any foriegn material that might hold a valve open. Retest for leakage. A leak down test is the same as a compression test in that you need to run the engine before performing to get the engine lubricated. Running a compression or a leakdown test on a dry engine is not going to produce good results. 1 Quote Link to comment
Donedreamin Posted May 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2018 I did not start the motor, when I originally did my valve adjustments I noticed cylinder one was so out of adjustment that it was leaving the valve open on the compression stroke. I did some research and it seems that's a common way to burn a valve. When I originally made my valve adjustments there was so much pressure being lost through my exhaust valve that I had trouble verifying if it was on the compression stroke (put my fingers over the spark plug hole) in comparison to the rest of the cylinders. I already ordered all the new parts and I'm already this deep into it, that is good knowledge for future reference but for this situation I will be pulling the head and inspecting. Will update with pictures 1 Quote Link to comment
Donedreamin Posted May 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2018 Thanks for clearing that up Mike! Would that be an error from the factory or can one assume this motor has been opened up before? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 19, 2018 Report Share Posted May 19, 2018 I would guess the cam was removed as that would be the only reason for removing it. Maybe the head was rebuilt, milled? 1 Quote Link to comment
Donedreamin Posted May 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2018 Mother in-law has been in town for the past few weeks so I haven't had much time to work on the Datsun but I did manage to get some garage time this weekend. I'm happy I pulled the head, cylinder one exhaust valve was badly warped and there was some pitting on cylinder two's exhaust valve and seat. I went with a 5-speed out of a 280z, I have been doing some research on the swap but have had trouble finding pictures of how guys modified their trans mounts in the past. Would anyone have photos I could use for reference? 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 27, 2018 Report Share Posted May 27, 2018 This is how I do mine. 3 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 27, 2018 Report Share Posted May 27, 2018 So that's your picture I have for the piece to remove? I've used it for years, thanks. Definitely a pre '80s L series transmission with z car mount at the back and single reverse light switch. Be sure to replace the rear seal in the back. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 27, 2018 Report Share Posted May 27, 2018 The picture was another members and I took it drew the lines on it and noted it to help him and many others do this mod. The yellow pictures are from another members writeup that I lost track of but had saved his pictures and I have re posted his pictures over the years to help other members. You know people say how frustrating Ratsun is but if it is so frustrating why do they keep coming back or stay stay members on Ratsun? Anything I post is up for grabs. One thing I liked about PhotoBucket was I could set my albums to share and people could save anything they wanted. I have not figured out how to do that with PostImage. Quote Link to comment
Donedreamin Posted May 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 Charlie - Thank you very much, couldn't have asked for anything better. Mike - Good call, the transmission came out of a 77 or 78 280z. Should I be concerned using this trans? I have never replaced that seal before. Any tricks or advice?I did not document with any photos today but I spent the day tinkering, sorted a bunch of odds and ends in the interior and finished the day by removing the carrier bearing, it didn't go so well. The nuts sheared off flush with the mount. There is barely any access, looking like I'm going to cut the mount off, fix and weld it back together. Definitely not what I wanted to do.. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 28, 2018 Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 I have done several of these trans mount mods and they all had to have different amounts taken out. This I believe is do to sagging of the rubber engine mounts and the trans rubber mount. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 28, 2018 Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 Pry the old seal out with screwdriver, don't scratch the inner side of trans. Grease the seal lips on the new one so it doesn't start up dry. Place in place and put a 2x4 over it and hammer in evenly. A large socket will also work. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 28, 2018 Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 Be sure the seal face is flush with th end of the tail shaft. Unless there is a grove worn in the yoke of the drivel line. If there is a groove then drive seal the seal in a little farther. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 Charlie, the last seal I got was thinner than the one I pried out so I used a wooden dowel to carefully seat it all the way in. Old Chev replacement front main seals a like this also. I was told the replacement would go in deeper and seal against unworn crank. Seems legit. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 I understand Mike they have made the seal fit more applications by making the lip thinner. I had a 50 willys 2 wheel drive truck that if I drove the tailshaft seal in all the way it would leak. if I drove the seal in flush wirth the end of the tail shaft housing it did not leak. I sold this truck when I was unable to fithe 3 speed with overdrive transmissions. I put 9 transmissions in the truck. Quote Link to comment
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