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jacobbell69

72 620 barn find

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I use a pressure bleeder when I need to, but I'll warn you that they aren't fool proof. I use them to get the system full of fluid and to get most of the air out, but nothing beats the old pump-hold-bleed method. Once the system has been pressure bled, I go around and bleed again manually.

 

The fool proof pressure bleeder costs thousands of dollars.

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I use an HVAC vacuum pump with a brake bleeding container inline.  You can reduce the suction pressure (unlike pressure bleeders) so you don't aerate the fluid.  Works well, and its just leftover tools from a previous profession.  Other than being cumbersome, its handy!

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got the alignment, ordered my steering components and king pin rebuild set. going with some kyb shocks, i've read xterra shocks are shorter and bolt in. is this true? i figure if they don't work, i'll put them on my xterra LOL. 

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I use a pressure bleeder when I need to, but I'll warn you that they aren't fool proof. I use them to get the system full of fluid and to get most of the air out, but nothing beats the old pump-hold-bleed method. Once the system has been pressure bled, I go around and bleed again manually.

 

The fool proof pressure bleeder costs thousands of dollars.

once i was able to get some fluid going i pumped manually!

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brakes works great, however e brake barely works. i think this is due to the slack on the actual handle. i do not see anywhere to adjust it. the cable as you can see is not tight against the cage that connects to the handle. i have made adjustments underneath and it does not affect the cable length at all. all three hand brake cables are new. am i missing something? have looked on google, factory service manual, and haynes manual. only adjustment i see is under the vehicle. the handle can be pulled about 4 inches before it makes contact with the end of the cable.

 

also just updated my dead photobuckets pics :D

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Which truck ?

The regular cab?

Is it possible one of the cables you purchased is for a king cable?

 

I'm not really sure how your ebrake is set up.... I think the 521 is a little different...

But a quick and dirty fix would be take up the extra slack under the truck and install a metal cable clamp....

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yes the regular cab, all cables were purchased for reg cab and matched the lengths of the old cables. yeah i think im gonna have to figure out a way to take up the slack.

Which truck ?
The regular cab?
Is it possible one of the cables you purchased is for a king cable?

I'm not really sure how your ebrake is set up.... I think the 521 is a little different...
But a quick and dirty fix would be take up the extra slack under the truck and install a metal cable clamp....

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Well there goes that idea....

This is the metal clamp I was thinking....

 

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I figured pull the slack on the front cable to the hand lever.... attach to the opposite end....

Not exactly sure what you have for room..

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thinking maybe some kind of spacer between the end of the handle to fill in the slack. still have to rebuild the steering in it and do the king pins. then lower the front and tint it, my earlier appointment got cancelled. been so busy working on my other vehicles. up to 10 Nissan's total at the moment. i should get some kind of plaque for being a nismo addict  :rofl:  i will soon post the random pics i promised a few weeks ago.

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0TSZ80F.jpg

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old bench seat

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what was under the bench seat

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this is why my passenger side of the cab sits lower than the bed, will need some tlc

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test fitting the hardbody bench seat

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comparison of new and old springs

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bad shoe lol

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had to order a couple of these as one wheel was missing both somehow

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before i replaced all hand brake lines

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took a selfie while redoing the fuel system

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i had to use a bolt and nut on the shifter, as the original bushing pin deal was worn out and i could not shift besides from 1-2.

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i added a washer here as there was still a lot of slack, now it shifts great.

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test fitting new wheels

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random pic, ended up replacing 95% of the old hard lines

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example here

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new tires

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new 4 inch blocks and custom u bolts. had to cut them at the nut, obviously lol

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new door seals, need to do door pins as well

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old starter was weak, right after this the original fuel pump went out

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had to bend the brackets on the new bench to fit

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changed a couple headlights and fix the grille emblem, saw that the fender was replaced before and instead of bolting it back in, was welded on. odd.

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battery box rust, this was my answer to it lol

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had to rewire the underside of the truck, brake lights had tons of issues.

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seconds after the first drive after 20 years of sitting. what a moment

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the day after the first drive, i was in love with this thing

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first bath in 20 years

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random pic

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my uncle passed last year, wanted to dedicate a build in his memory

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i highsided the axle at a farm lol

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if your cab mounts are rusted through, expect the side panel to be as well. I redid all 4 of mine and it was a pain!

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if your cab mounts are rusted through, expect the side panel to be as well. I redid all 4 of mine and it was a pain!

you mean the rocker panels? the whole passenger side is rusty, not sure why. definitely need new rocker panel, cab mount, battery tray, and floorboard. all on the passenger side. driver side is good besides a few holes in the floor board. i always see great condition cabs for cheap out west, but mine seems to be the best condition anywhere near me! both the parts trucks are rotted completely out it's insane.

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I meant the interior panels of the rockers. Look up my thread and you will see how I fixed them. Though if you need to replace the rockers, I strongly suggestyou simply undo all the rockers at the spot welds and completely replace the interior panels as well. Under cab mounts are a future project

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I meant the interior panels of the rockers. Look up my thread and you will see how I fixed them. Though if you need to replace the rockers, I strongly suggestyou simply undo all the rockers at the spot welds and completely replace the interior panels as well. Under cab mounts are a future project

yes the interior panel on the passenger side is rusted all the way through!! needs some attention for sure. i cant find your post? i found one where you spoke of creating new cab mounts, any chance you could make all 4 for me? you'd be a life saver! you should produce them and sell them, i see no one else offering them at all.

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done all the tie rod ends, idler arm etc and front shocks. gotta do rear shocks and get an alignment. on the weber it only has one wire for the choke. however the hitachi hooked up to the throttle switch, should i just not hook that up to anything? anywho, i also lowered the front end. 2" fender gap all around and i love it. also found an antifreeze leak, yay! i recorded me doing the work as i didnt see many diy videos on youtube on 620's. oh and... ordered everything to do disc brake conversion  B)  :w00t:  gonna record that process as well. i'll update this with pics and videos soon.

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throttle switch?  ?

 

 

on 72 had elelctric choke.

If you have elelctric weber you can hook that up that wire. and if you have a anti deisel selinoid with the carb you just daisey chain the wire from the choke to the selinoid. mean put 2 wire in the lug then move to the next lug with 1 wire

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well the schematics say the LW goes to choke, which i can hook up on the weber. and the LY and L go throttle switch. now that i think about it, maybe they're referring to the switch in the firewall, i'll have to see where the wires go from there. i know the schematic shows the L wire from the throttle switch to the ACC switch, however not sure where the LY wire goes as I only took a small picture of the schematic for reference. never the less the L and LY wire on mine are not hooked up past the throttle switch in the firewall, if that is the throttle switch. no idea on the anti diesel solenoid. also i'm not picking up on what you mean by daisy chaining the LW wire from the choke over to the solenoid, or putting 2 wire in the lug etc. 

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actually, schematic shows the throttle switch is on the carb. and on the firewall is the acc switch. now that i think about it, i think there was a switch and a harness on the old carb. however without using the original throttle linkage setup, i'm not sure how the switch would ever be activated correctly. man i wish i bought a manual choke carb.

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The choke and the other stuff is seperate... the auto choke just needs power when the truck is turned on.. I have a 72 521 and it was just an ignition source.... I think later on there was a relay added...

The other switches you talked about I believe have something to do with the dual points in the distributor...

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I gave you the anwser already

daisey chain the datsun choke wire (LW)to the choke on carb and then jumper it to the antideisel selinoid . Thats if this carb even has it on there. Most people dont get this carb . Its called the weber 32/36 DGV -IC  most get the DGEG or EV I think. called elecctric choke.

 

choke wire will have 12volts when key ON.

 

 

other datsun wires are most lekey no neede since they was on the stock carb.

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well the schematics say the LW goes to choke, which i can hook up on the weber.

This should be all you need to hook up to the weber....

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thank you for the help! no anti diesel solenoid on mine, its the dgev. ill probe and see which wire has 12v with ignition on to make sure it's the correct one.

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you mean the rocker panels? the whole passenger side is rusty, not sure why. definitely need new rocker panel, cab mount, battery tray, and floorboard. all on the passenger side. driver side is good besides a few holes in the floor board. i always see great condition cabs for cheap out west, but mine seems to be the best condition anywhere near me! both the parts trucks are rotted completely out it's insane.

You could buy my 79 620 project and get it shipped for half the cost of fixing your body.

 

Yes,it's a shameless plug.

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poweder coats those wheels white. Or sparay can it white. will look better.

I like stock rims painted white with hubcaps and small white wall. truck slammed down

 

 

 

I like the pantina of this truck . keep it that way looks cool

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