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jacobbell69

72 620 barn find

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All 620's until something like 77 built trucks had bed mounted fuel tanks. After that they are frame mounted. So any bed mounted 620 tank will work for you without modifying anything. If you get a later tank it isn't that different and should only require minimal mods to mounting brackets . I think the later tanks just have more lines coming out for emission evaporator and carbon canister stuff

 

Nice score. I hope it cleans up good for you.

this is correct.

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Wow! What a score. And so original.

 

I'm fascinated by the dealer welding his name into the bumper for advertising. Never seen it before.

I've seen it here in the Southwest.It was common at one point.
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Wow! What a score. And so original.

 

I'm fascinated by the dealer welding his name into the bumper for advertising. Never seen it before. Maybe a local tradition? Farming or construction tradition? I know rear bumpers are not in fashion all the time, but I'd sure keep that if I were you. The last 620 I bought, the PO's daughter was learning to drive, threw it in reverse and it a cinder block wall. The bumper brackets folded up like paper clips. The bumper stayed straight, and the sheet metal was never touched. I saved the bumper and am putting it on my current truck.  

 

F.Y.I. At our dealership we always installed the mirrors opposite way. Never knew why. The way yours are mounted are similar to a military patch chevron.  

 

Congrats on a great purchase.

Thanks! I seen another 620 on Facebook for sale, it was to far gone and to new to be of any use for parts on mine. It also had a dealer's name welded on the bumper. I will for sure keep mine but it's going in my back room!

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alright my friends here's an update.

got the front brakes done, was waiting on brake adjusters from Thailand. One day before they got here i found them on rockauto under 'misc'. Which is why I couldn't find them a couple months ago.

Need to complete the rear, these drums require about 30 min of beating on before they release the goodies. and by goodies i mean spiders!

I have now dropped the fuel tank and it doesn't look as bad as i thought. luckily i did not have to pull the bed to get the tank off. i also cleaned up the interior a bit and super cleaned the windows. I also replaced the brake master and the clutch master and slave. its not pushing the fork enough though, i'm thinking flywheel maybe seized? someone suggested i try and start the truck in first gear to break everything free, before i attempt that however i will need fully working brakes. i also found a GREAT condition bench seat in a local junkyard out of a 93 hardbody. $50 and its all mine. anyone have any tips on making it fit in my truck? crossing my fingers that it bolts up(probably not though)

also found some 16x8 wheels from a different junkyard i'm thinking about grabbing, they're eagle alloys. they were on an 01 frontier. i also found some 18x8 titan wheels. let me know which ones i should go with. i also fixed my pcv valve hose issue with some 1" to 3/4" adapter from home depot, it was a tad smaller than advertised so i was able to get my 5/8 hose onto the 3/4 end and hose clamp the 1" end as it was pretty loose. i bought a new weber carb but have not put it on yet. i know little about carbs so waiting on him to come over one weekend to install. thanks everyone for the help! also what size tires should i run with the corresponding wheels? i will lowering this thing a few inches. i do not want any stretched tires however.

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titan wheels

 

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eagle alloys

 

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cleaned off 20 years of barn storage

 

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my new bench seat

 

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when i removed the brake master i saw this lovely substance waiting for me

 

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passenger side brake shoe

 

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what came out of my fuel tank

 

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my freshly removed fuel tank, waiting on my new pressure washer in the mail to clean this puppy off

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The first gear trick would work if the clutch rusted to the fly wheel or pressure plate, but I think you still need the clutch slave and master to be working first before you tried. Otherwise your just gonna be driving around in first, you need the pressure plate to open and close.

How far is the clutch fork moving? If the pedal is stiff instantly and doesn't move the clutch fork I would say something is stuck...

If the clutch fork barely moves and pedal goes to floor I would say air in the master...

As far as the clutch did you bench bleed it.?.. I found out by doing it with a vacume bleed at the slave and with a friend on the pedal and no success....

Bleeding right at the master with a short line needs to be done first or your chasing your tail... same for the brake master if new.....

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The first gear trick would work if the clutch rusted to the fly wheel or pressure plate, but I think you still need the clutch slave and master to be working first before you tried. Otherwise your just gonna be driving around in first, you need the pressure plate to open and close.

How far is the clutch fork moving? If the pedal is stiff instantly and doesn't move the clutch fork I would say something is stuck...

If the clutch fork barely moves and pedal goes to floor I would say air in the master...

As far as the clutch did you bench bleed it.?.. I found out by doing it with a vacume bleed at the slave and with a friend on the pedal and no success....

Bleeding right at the master with a short line needs to be done first or your chasing your tail... same for the brake master if new.....

i struggled to bleed it at first, then removed line and put my finger over the hole and once it started pumping out brake fluid i reattached and was successfully able to get the slave bled. no air in system for sure, however i will mess with the master cylinder where it mounts to the pedal, there are a couple adjustment points i need to tweak i believe as the pedal goes to floor too easily. slave pushes the fork maybe half an inch id say. 

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Well if you have adjustments start there, do you have any adjustments with the push rod on the slave? Make sure there is not to much free play... Maybe it's not returning enough for full stroke..

 

When you disconnected the line was it at the master? Could you get a solid pedal if you blocked the output of the master with your finger?.... do you remember?

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Well if you have adjustments start there, do you have any adjustments with the push rod on the slave? Make sure there is not to much free play... Maybe it's not returning enough for full stroke..

 

When you disconnected the line was it at the master? Could you get a solid pedal if you blocked the output of the master with your finger?.... do you remember?

pedal never got solid throughout the bleeding process. 

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Personally sounds like the master still has a little air in it.... when I did mine I could pump fluid and no air bubbles and still no clutch ....

 

Try one more this way.....

Disconnect line ...

Make a small line to pump fluid to a catch bucket....

Put the pedal to the floor

Block the line with your finger.

Release pedal with finger still blocking line.

The master should draw in fluid ...

Repeat ....

Now with the pedal up You should be able to hold your finger over the line and have a rock solid pedal, no movement....

Reconnect line,re bleed at the slave and you should be good.....

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Just buy all new parts on Rockauto.  I think the good slave cylinders are $11, hose $6, Master $14.  Look at the photos and make sure you get the right one or the hose will hit the torsion bar.  

 

It should bleed easy, unless you're sucking air back in from pores in the bore or some other issue.  Let it gravity bleed for a while - open bleeder and keep topping off the master.  Pump it up several times, then repeat tomorrow and you're done.  But you need to be moving the pressure plate or you won't get the air out of the slave.  

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alright my friends here's an update.

got the front brakes done, I also replaced the brake master and the clutch master and slave. its not pushing the fork enough though,.

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yeah i replaced clutch hose, slave, and master. i think maybe the master is bad. i tried bleeding it for like 30 min before removing the line and holding my finger over the hole to create vacuum. maybe i ruined the seals in it? ill fiddle with it this weekend!

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Doubt you ruined the seals, they should be able to handle bleeding, it has to over come the pressure of moving the pressure plate.. maybe it could be bad...

 

But I had all the same symptoms when I put my new master and slave on....

As I said I tried vacume bleeding, someone working the pedal and even gravity feeding and nothing worked...

Bench bleeding right at the master is neccesary, install instructions even say it.... i dont understand it but i proved it to myself it is a necessary step...

 

Where did you remove the line from?

And what was your sequence with the pedal and your finger....

You should be able to get a solid pedal at the master with your finger blocking the output and pressing the pedal....

Try the steps I suggested....

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Doubt you ruined the seals, they should be able to handle bleeding, it has to over come the pressure of moving the pressure plate.. maybe it could be bad...

 

But I had all the same symptoms when I put my new master and slave on....

As I said I tried vacume bleeding, someone working the pedal and even gravity feeding and nothing worked...

Bench bleeding right at the master is neccesary, install instructions even say it.... i dont understand it but i proved it to myself it is a necessary step...

 

Where did you remove the line from?

And what was your sequence with the pedal and your finger....

You should be able to get a solid pedal at the master with your finger blocking the output and pressing the pedal....

Try the steps I suggested....

i removed the line on the master cyl. i put my finger over the hole, pedal in, remove finger, put finger back on, release pedal, push pedal back in, release finger, put finger back, release pedal. repeated three times before it start squirting fluid out. then i reconnected and had no problem getting fluid down to the slave to bleed it there. filled the master cyl reservoir 3 times with fluid, never running it dry however. so im pretty sure there is no air. i believe the issue with the weak pedal and the fork not moving far enough is because like you said, not going full stroke. ill mess with the adjustments this weekend

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Sounds like you got the bleed covered.....

Not sure if yours does or not my slave had a threaded adjustment on the pushrod...

Make sure the slave is returning also before you adjust. It may be extended and only returning a minimal amount....

Goodluck this weekend with it...

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I have many more updates for the truck however today I only have time to ask a question of you datsun vets. Can anyone identify which of these is the reverse and which is for the 4th gear switch? I am currently rewiring much of the truck underneath as mice have chewed the already sketchy wiring job of the previous owner.

 

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Also, can I just use a crimped connector onto the 4 leads or do i need to buy new switches? I see originally the switches had wires coming out of them and it seems mine are completely gone.

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to add to my question, the 4 stray wires do not conform to the wiring diagrams i have been able to find for 72 and 73. i have two red/black wires which i know go to reverse, however for the 4th gear switch i have a light green, and a red/blue. on the 73 diagram i have it shows to two blue/red wires going to 4th gear switch. however the 72 diagram does not show the 4th gear switch at all. nor does it show any blue/red wires on the entire diagram besides in the engine bay relating to the windshield wipers or the windshield washer.

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Still not had the time to give a full write up of everything i've done since my last update. been balls to wall at work. however two trucks came up on my facebook feed and i just HAD to have them. I present to you a 79 KC and 75 with a factory tach! 75 is an auto and the 79 is a 4 speed(was hoping 5 speed)

 

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I posted these on the Datsun 620 Owners facebook group to see if anyone needed parts, seems most people expected me to just charge them only shipping cost on anything they wanted lol. I'll be stripping these and listing everything on eBay. I plan to keep the motors and trans for backups since these trucks are non existent inside KY. I happened to get lucky on this deal and saw an ad that said 'two trucks' and was a picture of the red one and a old Toyota truck. He happened to have the KC at his other property I was able to bundle in the deal.

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First start up on fuel in 20 years, its turn key now.

 

I have a new(to me, had it boiled) fuel tank and all new fuel line and new fuel pump

New brake booster along with shoes, adjusters and a couple metal lines and everything else in between.

found some eagle alloys 16x8 i found in a junkyard off a frontier.

lowered the rear with 4 inch blocks, waiting to lower the front once i do a few test drives.

got my custom license plate coming.

got my weber 32/36 installed.

Fixed my clutch issue, it was an adjustment on the master cylinder combined with a poor quality slave.

first test drive should happen this weekend.

i've had to do quite a bit of rewiring, still haven't figured out my brake lights and turn signals on the rear but everything else seems to be working.

I have many pictures i need to upload but havent got around to it.

also i bought two 520's for next years project.

 

im forgetting stuff but im sure theres plenty more to come once it's driving.

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Bought one of those fancy pump air bleeders, was able to bleed the system in under a minute. ended up replacing all brake hard lines as they all leaked slightly. ive been driving it for a couple weeks. i'll be uploading random pictures i've taken and not yet uploaded. they will be in no chronological order. had to replace the radiator with one for an l20b as it was the only one i could find online or locally. had to use different upper rad hose as well as drill new mounting places for the bolts. ive got a laundry list of things to do to it still. however it's running and driving and i absolutely love it. going for alignment in the morning then will lower the front end and get it realigned, gotta love firestone lifetime alignments. then off to tint shop for some 5% all around with 20% strip

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btw if anyone wanted to know the reverse light switch is the top one, and the black and red wires go on either. doesnt matter which.

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Glad to hear you are able to put some miles on it now. Can't wait for the pics.

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then off to tint shop for some 5% all around with 20% strip

Lot to be said for limo tint on the rear glass.

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Always a good feeling when you get to drive them again. :D

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