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Datsun B210 - LZ23, 5 spd. The Definitive B210 swap thread.


mhub91

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EDIT: If using google chrome, enable the Photobucket Image Viewer plug in. Later in this post, new images will be posted using a different hosting service.

EDIT: Recent useful info poster here:

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I hope that my research / work helps others in the future.

 

Here's a few facts about swapping in an L20 (lz23 in my case...) into a "B".......

 

- PL510 (1968-'72) crossmember DOES bolt into a B210 without issue, I also used B210 lower control arms w/ the 510 xmember. This works and has no issues.

 

- L series engine with sidedraft carbs WILL fit. Note I have a 2 pc. side draft intake manifold that doesn't go out straight out from the head, but instead has a step-up (if that doesn't make sense, refer to pics in previous posts).

 

- L series exhaust manifold DOES NOT properly fit (kind of...) when using a 510 crossmember. The engine sits too far forward and the manifold down pipe will interfere with the steering arm. I'm using a square port manifold so a combination of a different manifold may work. I also tried to use the short tube header offered on ebay. This may be usable if you cut the collector short. You'll need to play with this a bit.

 

- When using a 510 xmember with factory mounts and rubber isolaters, the engine sits approximately 5" forward from the firewall. This is problematic if plans are to race or autocross the car. The engine has too much over hang on the front struts, potentially causing over steer or weight distribution issues.

       a. No room for a large radiator
       b. no room for clutch fan

=

- Must cut out the "radiator hump / mount" from core support. Trimming along the crease of the bend will give ample room.

       a. Use a VW MK1 Rabbit radiator. Must make mounts.

 

- I am using a 71B 5 spd from a 720 pickup. This is what was provided with my swap. So, I used it.

       a. When using the 510 crossmember and stock mounts, the longtail 5 spd is sufficient. but there are necessary modifications.

           1. must make a custom trans crossmember. 

           2. must have a customer length driveline. Datsun drivelines have staked ujoints and are typically not serviceable. I chose to have a custom driveline made with serviceable ujoints.

               Note: when using 510 xmember, stock mounts and a long tail transmission, the driveline will be 42" center-to-center.

               Note: H150 differential flange is the same as a H165. So, use any L series driveline yoke that is L series and/or H150 / H165 rear flange.

 

- If your "B" was originally a 4spd, the clutch slave cylinder is on the driver side. 71B and 63A 5spds have the slave cyl is on the passenger side. You'll need a new clutch line
      - Will a 510 clutch line work(?)

 

- L series alternators using internal regulator -- remove the B's ext. regulator the same way you would a 510. Be sure to remove / disable the choke relay or you will have a voltage draw.

 

- Swap ignition to driver side and remove points setup if so equipped.

 

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Picked up this '76 B210 a while back. Daily drove it for a while and decided the little A14 wasn't enough......

 

pics

 

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Cleaned up the little A14 and purchased a new Weber 32/36 from Redline...... So not impressed with the "new" Webers. Performance and aesthetics is there, sure, but reliability with the "new" ones seems poor compared to the old Italian ones i've previously owned. Throttle shaft has excessive play, electric choke is finnicky.... Not a fan. 

20170121_111052_zpsel6s5lgy.jpg

 

 

 

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Decided to get some cooler, Jap wheels. Had these Hayashi Command 400, 13x6 and 13x6.5 imported. Got them for a very low price due to condition (color, oxidation).

1470368596394_zpsg14ynrjj.jpg

 

 

Not sure if I like the color, but toying with the idea..... Light refinishing, not polished yet.

 

20160811_212112_zpsyb31ow4t.jpg

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Scored a nonturbo CA18DE from CL for a deal.

 

Didn't take pics, but I tore it down, resealed and did a head job. new valve seals and lapped valves, too. port and polished exhaust side.

 

20170313_155833_zpsg8crhd8z.jpg

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Nice rims, did they fit the zx struts?

Decided to get some cooler, Jap wheels. Had these Hayashi Command 400, 13x6 and 13x6.5 imported. Got them for a very low price due to condition (color, oxidation).1470368596394_zpsg14ynrjj.jpg

 

 

Not sure if I like the color, but toying with the idea..... Light refinishing, not polished yet.

 

20160811_212112_zpsyb31ow4t.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

treated myself to a few cool things.....

 

 

picked up some drilled / slotted rotors for my ZX brake upgrade

large245864.jpg

 

 

and also got Techno Toy Tuning camber plates for the ZX coilover setup.

 

The image on their website isn't up to date. I was really excited when I received them and found that they offer a small amount of caster adjustment, too.

 

 

(not mine setup, but identical otherwise....)
14597319_908454782592903_776793125946392

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So..... No more CA. a friend offered to trade his engine for my CA.

 

So, now, the B is getting an LZ23 with dual Mikunis. I think it could offer more nostalgia fun and offer (maybe?) About the same power.

 

Pics later.

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the B is getting an LZ23 with dual Mikunis. I think it could offer more nostalgia fun and offer (maybe?) About the same power.

 

More torque, but less horsepower. Less RPMs, but more driveable. I would do it.  :thumbup:

 

Infinitely easier swap too. Assuming you already have a 510 crossmember in it (or plan to).

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Here's the LZ23 all reassembled and prepping for fitment into the B210

 

 

It's worth mentioning again that a 510 crossmember does not allow you to "swap an L series right in" ... sure, it sits in there, but it's about 5-6" too far forward.. radiator wont properly fit and im sure that the weight distribution would be fucked. 

 

anyway, in doing this modification i lowered the engine 3/4" and also moved it back 3" ... so far, im happy with it. Oil pan may be an issue and engine may need to be lifted 1/4". 
 

yes. those are hockey puck motor mounts. no, the plates i made are not properly installed yet. this was the initial fitment test before I complete any more work and waste time.

 

 

 

 

(fyi use Imgur for new pic hosting. fast and way easier than photo bucket)

 

 

 

 

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Here is the "adapter plate" i made up. It's very simple and probably not the best way to do this. But... it's simple. This isn't a race car.

I used the PL510 cross member. i cut the center out and made a custom square tube center that allows me to go front sump. I used a front sump oil pan and pickup tube from an imported L18 with efi ... it's what was sitting around. A10 oil pan will also work for front sump.

 

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I'm happy (so far) with firewall fitment.

 

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stock 510 square port exhaust fits perfect

 

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side draft clear the brake booster, too. Note, my manifold has a bend in it. if this manifold is not used, the side drafts may not fit.

 

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still sitting very close to factory lean (some say 12 deg, some say 15 deg....)

 

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