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Differential for 620


Jalj47

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Probably not unless it is an H190 in the hardbody.

There is also the rear gearing to consider, the 1973 likely had either 437 gears, or maybe 411 gears, the hardbody could have anything in it.

What makes you think your differential is giving out, noise, clunking, knocking, a whine?

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If 2wd and a 4 cylinder, probably it's an H-190 but the gearing, like wayno says, will be terrible.

 

 

Could be the U joint (vibration and or high pitched squeal, sometimes it lets out a loud ping sound like someone tapping the driveshaft with a hammer) in the driveshaft or an axle bearing which growls or groans, sometimes on turns..

 

Is the front of the diff wet? The seal is gone. Take the plug half way up the back of the diff and check the oil. You should be able to dip your little finger in the oil, which should be level with the hole. If low fill it up. If dry the diff is probably toast.

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If 2wd and a 4 cylinder, probably it's an H-190 but the gearing, like wayno says, will be terrible.

 

 

Could be the U joint (vibration and or high pitched squeal, sometimes it lets out a loud ping sound like someone tapping the driveshaft with a hammer) in the driveshaft or an axle bearing which growls or groans, sometimes on turns..

 

Is the front of the diff wet? The seal is gone. Take the plug half way up the back of the diff and check the oil. You should be able to dip your little finger in the oil, which should be level with the hole. If low fill it up. If dry the diff is probably toast.

Well I just hear a metal clanking noise coming from the rear end, when I'm in 4th gear everything starts to shake or rumble. When I'm at a stop it's normal and when I drive it makes that noise again. What can that be

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Well I just hear a metal clanking noise coming from the rear end, when I'm in 4th gear everything starts to shake or rumble. When I'm at a stop it's normal and when I drive it makes that noise again. What can that be

 

A dry U joint will bind and make a ping or clang sound usually on take offs. Sounds like a hammer tap on the hollow drive shaft.

 

If shaking this would indicate worn U joint also as it allows the spinning mass of the drive shaft to shift off center. This will cause much vibration.

 

 

You have 3 U joints and a carrier bearing. The carrier bearing seldom goes bad but the rubber surrounding 'doughnut' does rot away and the unsupported driveshaft will flop around.

This thing...

620driveshaft003Large.jpg

 

You have a two piece driveshaft. The rubber isolator is at the back of the front driveshaft.

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A dry U joint will bind and make a ping or clang sound usually on take offs. Sounds like a hammer tap on the hollow drive shaft.

 

If shaking this would indicate worn U joint also as it allows the spinning mass of the drive shaft to shift off center. This will cause much vibration.

 

 

You have 3 U joints and a carrier bearing. The carrier bearing seldom goes bad but the rubber surrounding 'doughnut' does rot away and the unsupported driveshaft will flop around.

This thing...

620driveshaft003Large.jpg

 

You have a two piece driveshaft. The rubber isolator is at the back of the front driveshaft.

I've had that ping sound on take off and it's been the u joint(s)...The last time it happened I noticed the zerk had fallen out of the center u joint and it had a lot of play. I replaced the u joints and the one missing the zerk was missing All of the needle bearings in the cup. I was surprised I didn't drop the driveshaft...
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A girlfriend of mine back in the '80s had the bolts on her Chevy Luv fall out.

Flatcat's sister drove her 521 till the rear drive line fell on the ground, it got towed home and I went over and fixed it, where the U-joint cap is supposed to be in the flange was a giant hole that finally was so big the U-joint finally just fell out, I asked her if it vibrated any and she said yea, but she just kept driving it till it fell out, she didn't break it from dumping the clutch, it just got so bad it fell out.  :rofl:

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Flatcat's sister drove her 521 till the rear drive line fell on the ground, it got towed home and I went over and fixed it, where the U-joint cap is supposed to be in the flange was a giant hole that finally was so big the U-joint finally just fell out, I asked her if it vibrated any and she said yea, but she just kept driving it till it fell out, she didn't break it from dumping the clutch, it just got so bad it fell out. :rofl:

That's too funny! I get this call from the Carl's Jr. pay phone (remember those....?) "Hey babe the truck won't go..." Luckily I didn't need a tow truck. I fixed it there in the parking lot. I asked if it was making any noise and I got a yes answer. At least she was honest with me! I had another girlfriend that tore my torsion bar anchor completely off the bolt. I get in to drive it and notice right away. I ask her about it and she denied doing it...I said you're the only one that drives it besides me and I know I didn't do it. She still denied it: She never drove another one of my vehicles after that. And soon she was history.
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my bolts always fall out.

 

Mine loosen all the time, probably the way I hammer the thing on a daily basis.

 

Going to talk to ARP to see what they might have in that size range, before my 'L16' goes in, as it will surly put the hurt on them.

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I brought my driveshaft in to get balanced for the race truck after installing new U-joints.  I got royally chewed out because 2 of the cups were not a press fit into the yokes.  Those yokes got replaced, and the shaft got balanced.  $$$  Safety first?  If they're loosening up on you, I'd spend the $300 and get it fixed for real, so its no longer a hazard for you or the idiot tailgating you.  

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