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Beebani's Z32 front brake kit/521 install


spdcrazy

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Just finished up this swap. very pleased. parts go like this

 

cardone MC #131721 off of a 76 620 pickup

z32 brake calipers, 26mm from a NA 300zx

pads from the same z32 of course

rotors from a Honda passport

Mklotz BMC rod

 

Brake lines are really up to you, the calipers use m10x1 threads and the MC is 3/16x24 so either adapt one side or the other. I didn't use an proportion valve and I'm still running drums on the rear.
 

I didn't know how my Chevy rally wheels would clear but expected them to be an issue, I was right. a simple 3/8 spacer and longer studs were all that was needed. then of course my 195/60/15's rubbed, and not where the fender could be flared, so now I'm running 195/55/15's but all is well. so far I'm very happy with the setup. it stops on a dime now and straight! no more changing lanes under hard braking.

 

trying up upload photos, but work computer is being very slow.

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You the guy on FB that posted this recently?  I was wondering about all this but don't post on fb so glad you posted it here.   I got the same rallye wheels but running a 195/50/15 so a little shorter sidewall that yours.   Those aluminum or iron Z32 calipers? And you adapt the soft or hard brake lines?  And how much all in are you on them? 

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You the guy on FB that posted this recently?  I was wondering about all this but don't post on fb so glad you posted it here.   I got the same rallye wheels but running a 195/50/15 so a little shorter sidewall that yours.   Those aluminum or iron Z32 calipers? And you adapt the soft or hard brake lines?  And how much all in are you on them?

 

Yep that's me. My fenders were flared already for my 195/60s. So when I spaced the fronts out 3/8" the 60s hit above the fender lip. So keep that in mind, but I would expect 50s to fit if you weren't super low, I'm tucking tire at ride height.

 

I ran all new lines up front. Used factory z32 rubber lines which are stupid long. Prob redo them later. Also made new hard lines off the calipers. The. New hard lines from the BMC to the rubber lines. All new new. Lol.

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And yes. Aluminum calipers. 26mm. I got lucky and have good friends with Z32s (as do I, but it's dead and has been for a long while) so I had cost of lines, fluid, pads and rotors. Then $160 for the brackets. And $40? For the BMC

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Looks like you were poking already?  Been looking hard at doing this on my 71 521, its low but not slammed and not tucking by any means.  

 

Can buy an all in kit from silverminemotors for $575 (no new MC), but they use calipers from a d21 hardbody.

 

I figure going your route and piecing it all together would be roughly the same price.

 

$200 for calipers

$160 for brackets

$60 Pads

$45 MC

$40 lines

$xx spacers

$xx longer studs

 

Not sure if I am missing anything.  

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That's about right. I planned out the d21 setup to be just over $300 however. Using rockauto. And without a BMC as I already had it. Z32 calipers can be found used as the NA boys like to upgrade. And the 240 guys want the 30mm guys.

 

Also, I weighed the difference at 8 lbs more per side. 23lbs per drum setup. 31lbs for the disk. Well worth it in my eyes.

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Looks like you were poking already? Been looking hard at doing this on my 71 521, its low but not slammed and not tucking by any means.

 

Can buy an all in kit from silverminemotors for $575 (no new MC), but they use calipers from a d21 hardbody.

 

I figure going your route and piecing it all together would be roughly the same price.

 

$200 for calipers

$160 for brackets

$60 Pads

$45 MC

$40 lines

$xx spacers

$xx longer studs

 

Not sure if I am missing anything.

I am doing the pieced together way because you can get lifetime warrantee on the caliper/bracket/pads.... they get you on the core so I was gonna try and get some cheap junk calipers to turn in as a core.

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I am doing the pieced together way because you can get lifetime warrantee on the caliper/bracket/pads.... they get you on the core so I was gonna try and get some cheap junk calipers to turn in as a core.

 

You talking about Rock Auto core charges? 

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...i only use rock auto as a last resort...

 

 

Good move....

They constantly screw up shipping to me when I really need something fast, and substitute chinese parts when I order name brands.

 

Can't wait to get my Z32s on. Found a member selling his unused bracket set, and found the Z32na calipers in Japan, for cheap.

Just need to drill the Honda rotors, and get some 16" tires for my new rims.

(my Decem-10s won't clear the brakes due to the rim depression being all the way to the inside on them :( )

 

Had some stainless brake lines meant for an older Toyota sedan that matched everything up.

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extreme_brake_rotor.jpg

brakes_e46m3_rotor_front_lg.jpg

 

Which can lead to this if you do a lot of 150mph to 20mph hard brake apps,

But my 620 doesn't do 120 often, probably mostly 70 or less most of the time, so I'm not worried about it.

 

Rotor_BigCrack.jpg

 

Could have bought pre-drilled, slotted or both, but they were all chinese junk......

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I've been told repeatedly that dimpling gives nearly all the benefit of drilling while almost completely eliminating. The risk of cracking the rotor.

 

I have no empirical evidence to back this up.

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if your wheels will clear the calipers, ZERO. if they don't, itll poke as much as the spacer you install. I had to use a 3/8in spacer.

 

just add washers to gather how much spacer you will need, washers ONLY for mocking of course.

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You can find the NA 300ZX around in self-pull yards still. Prices vary but I just got some Toyota 4-piston calipers for $13 ea (no core charge!?) to upgrade my Z

 

Maybe they thought they were from a Z-car since I pulled other Z parts. Some yards charge more for a part if it is from a "truck"

 

New seals (rebuild kit) are only $6 per caliper.

 

I have also found info online about cross-drilled rotors ... stating it really doesn't help much with cooling but it looks good. hmmm ... ya, I also like the look regardless of what cooling it does or not. I buy them pre-drilled. I wouldn't do that myself. I also never go over 100mph so I think the cross-drilling is still more of a cosmetic thing.

 

Having internally vented brake rotors is the biggest upgrade for cooling vs the original solid rotors. (280Z)

 

I like the look of the Nissan calipers on your truck.

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I am lucky enough to still own a z32TT (although the engine blew again about 7 years ago) So I have some contacts. made it easier to source quality parts cheap.

 

I have never been a fan of the drilled rotors, although they look cool, I won't go over 100mph often either, so the risk of cracking out weighs the cool factor. and to top it off, I cant see them behind my rally wheels anyways!

 

so far i'm still very happy with the disks!

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