merlin Posted March 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 ...so back to this... A12 and an A series 4 speed is what i'm thinking of going with... 1. I need a shorter filter or a remote filter, correct? 2. new tranny mount( seems easy enough) 3. 65 tranny cover 4. do I actually need to relocate the alternator? 5. do the motor mounts line up? 6. Oil pan cut and reversed - correct? 7. A series drive shaft... do i need to make a hybrid one(take out the U joint and mate the J series shaft to it?, or will an A series one fit directly to the rear diff if shortened? 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 26, 2017 Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 Oil filter for Toyota 22RE works. Motor mounts need to be fabricated. Alternator in stock (driver side) location will interfere with lower radiator outlet. Moving the radiator outlet might be an option. Cut the bottom of the pan off, flip it, weld back on. Extend the oil pickup tube to match. No idea about the other stuff. I had a "dogleg" 5 spd in my A12 320 and I made custom mount for it, modified the tunnel cover and built my own driveshaft. 1 Quote Link to comment
merlin Posted March 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 I also have roadster R16, A12 and J13 rads in good shape... will look at them and see what pipes to where 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 26, 2017 Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 A long time ago I put an A15/dogleg 5spd in my 1965 Datsun 320, it's been over 15 years now, the alternator was real close to the battery tray but cleared, at first I used a remote oil filter, but then I figured out that if I used a 521 idler arm I could use the stock oil filter, but I had to use a "T" where the oil sensor stuck out straight sideways, then the sensor pointed forwards or backwards and I also had a mechanical oil pressure gauge that came off that "T". I didn't have to make a custom oil pan, and I don't know what the engine was in before I bought it from Dan Hart, I made my own motor mounts from scratch. The biggest issue for me was the transmission mount, back then all I had was a stick welder and I wasn't very good at it, but as I recall I barely got the mount on the front of the cross member, Bannannahammok actually bought my 65 recently and has it now. I believe I welded the tranny mount to the cross member, if I were to do it again now I would make a bracket that uses to the existing cross member transmission mount bolt holes that have the 5spd mount plate I need in the middle, I had a custom driveline made as I recall. 1 Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted March 26, 2017 Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 Unless someone knows from experience, the column-shift floor cover pan may have enough clearance over the backbone of the trany. You will have to cut an opening ( 3" or 4" square ??) at the junction of the cover pan and the cab floor for the shifter to sprout up.I have a photo of the cut in my stuff somewhere but can't find at the moment. If I find I'll post it. With the skills shown in your builds on the forums, you'll have no issue makin that happen. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 26, 2017 Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 Unless someone knows from experience, the column-shift floor cover pan may have enough clearance over the backbone of the trany. You will have to cut an opening ( 3" or 4" square ??) at the junction of the cover pan and the cab floor for the shifter to sprout up.I have a photo of the cut in my stuff somewhere but can't find at the moment. If I find I'll post it. With the skills shown in your builds on the forums, you'll have no issue makin that happen. I had my engine far enough forward that I didn't have to touch the floor pan, but the shift lever hole was at the very back of the cover where it goes straight down, it was hard to make a cover for the hole to keep the air out. 1 Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted March 26, 2017 Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 Found a couple of pics in the archive. Don't remember where I got these about three or four years ago but might be of someone here's car. A couple of floor cuts. Not sure what the tranys are but the concept applies to whatever. The photo with the seat looks to me to have more clearance between the seat and shift lever than I took it would end up from some posts that I've seen here. The transmission that originally fills this hole is approximately 26" overall length. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 26, 2017 Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 A12's are unique in that the distributor drive is closer to the front of the engine than on any other A series, so mounting the alternator up high on the passenger side is not an option. My shifter fit in the tunnel cover, but I did have to modify it to keep the weather out. I also had to heat the shifter and bend it straight so it didn't hit the bench seat. One other thing, you're going to need to run an electric fan. When I get a chance I'll post some pics from my PC of my A12 powered 320. 1 Quote Link to comment
Retyred Rallyist Posted June 1, 2017 Report Share Posted June 1, 2017 These threads are awesome, I'm about to embark on my A14 / 4 speed into a RHD U320 project here in Australia so all of your efforts will assist me greatly. Thanks for posting all of this great info and I'll be sure to post my progress too, once I get started. Thanks 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 These threads are awesome, I'm about to embark on my A14 / 4 speed into a RHD U320 project here in Australia so all of your efforts will assist me greatly. Thanks for posting all of this great info and I'll be sure to post my progress too, once I get started. Thanks You have a photo or two of your U320, if you cannot figure out how to post photos of it, you can send them to me directly and I will post them for you. I myself have a 1962 Datsun U320, I have a lot of photos of different ones and I would like to see yours to see if it is yet another new one I have never seen before. 2 Quote Link to comment
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