I got it one piece at a time........

[captain720]

That brake booster line made a bigger difference than I expected, I love it when little things like that are found.

 

I need a new solution for a coolant overflow as my current bottle setup isn't big enough for these 100°+ temps. So I'll see what I can come up with for that

[Charlie69]

Check you cap is the correct pounds in pressure.  Mine is 14.  I do not have a problem here in Phoenix with the stock over flow tank.  And I am running a shitty after market aluminum plastic tank radiator.

[Charlie69]

Just looked online and Orieleys, Rock Auto, and NAPA all show 13 lbs caps.  No lever actuated caps for coolant recovery systems.

 

[jbirds510]

On 7/22/2020 at 1:51 PM, Draker said:

I can see it just fine.

i see no pics from instagram-

 

[jbirds510]

you might retard your ignition a couple degrees and if youre carb'd fatten it up a little also.

[captain720]

The cap seems to be working fine, the 16 oz plastic Gatorade bottle overflow is too small. I ordered a 1L aluminum overflow tank on amazon. 

 

Instagram hosting does not work well, what does always work well is You Tube videos so I am going to continue making those. I also added a real deka battery tie down today instead of a bungee cord. Theres lots more photos on my actual Instagram account @captains_garage but posting them here doesn't work very well. 

[captain720]

I got a good solution going for the coolant reservoirs on our trucks.

Once again a video cause I like those better than photos.

 

 

[datzenmike]

 Clean install of the reservoir but hose clamps look and work better than wire. The cap should be vented to the outside air. Recovery container should not be pressurized. Maybe drill a 1/16" hole in it.

[captain720]

9 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 Clean install of the reservoir but hose clamps look and work better than wire. The cap should be vented to the outside air. Recovery container should not be pressurized. Maybe drill a 1/16" hole in it.

Thanks for the note on the vent I was wondering about that, I'll just add one. It has a female npt fitting on the reservoir already. Should I put an overflow hose on the top of the reservoir or just a vent?

 

Edit I think I will just drill a small hole in an npt plug and use that as a vent

Edited August 29, 2021 by captain720

[captain720]

A vent has been added to the top via a hole drilled in an aluminum npt plug inserted in a threaded hole near the top of the reservoir.

 

Click link for a photo of it.

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CTJN9dJnL32/?utm_medium=copy_link

[datzenmike]

A drain shouldn't be required as the intent of the coolant recovery container is to recover coolant. It should never be fully filled as there has to be room for expelled coolant so adjust the fill to allow for that. When the cooling system cools down the air shrinks and the expelled coolant will be drawn back into the rad filling it up.

 

I used to top up my 710 rad every week in the summer. Maybe a cup. By the fall the antifreeze mix was well diluted and needed to be increased. I changed to a coolant recovery rad cap and ran the over flow hose into a bottle. Eventually I found a suitable container from a newer car. After installation maybe a cup a year. When checked, the rad was always filled to the top and all I had to do was watch the level in the recovery bottle. It was plastic so you could see the level at a glance. 

[captain720]

Yes I do not think that coolant will ever be coming out the vent, the container is nicely oversized so after some testing I think it is perfect

[datzenmike]

IF... you are expelling an abnormal amount of coolant specially in cooler weather it is possible that the head gasket may be just starting to blow into the water jacket. The Z24 tends to do this every 100K. The compression is 10X what the rad cap can handle and it will vent to relieve it.

 

The preventative it to re torque the head bolts once a year to maintain the clamping pressure on the gasket. Easy enough to do. Engine must be cold. Only one bolt at a time is allowed to be loose. Loosen and re torque to 60 ft lbs and only then move on to the next. Any order you like.

[captain720]

It is not expelling an excessive amount of coolant everything seems to be top notch head bolts retorqued not long ago

[captain720]

I created an EGR block off plate as this 720 has a non EGR friendly exhaust manifold and no emissions required on "classic" vehicles here.

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

There is no EGR at idle. Nor at full throttle as the ported vacuum signal is almost zero, or while the engine is cold and warming up.  It's easier to just pull the vacuum hose off between the carburetor and the EGR to disable it. This of course eliminates a lot of work and any possible leak from a poor job. The only non EGR exhaust would be an after market header as all Z series exhaust manifolds have EGR ports in them.

[captain720]

A previous owner of the manifold welded the ports so no EGR ports on my manifold

Edited September 6, 2021 by captain720

[datzenmike]

Previous owners are always idiots. About 15-20% of problems brought here are directly caused by previous owners. A pox on them and their houses.

[captain720]

15-20% is pretty conservative estimate 🙂

 

The one advantage is having no EGR does make things cleaner underhood

[datzenmike]

Can't see it driving and neither can anyone else. The SS? tube between the exhaust and the EGR is all but impossible to find if they rot out, so all you can do is weld the bung up.

[powderfinger]

13 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Previous owners are always idiots. About 15-20% of problems brought here are directly caused by previous owners. A pox on them and their houses.

More true words have never been spoken. The previous owner of my 86 720 wanted to advance the timing farther that he could by simply turning the distributor so he nealry destroyed it by cutting the slot in the distributor all the way out the side so he could keep rotating it, (Z24i distributor adjustment is a little different that standard Z24 distributor). A pic would do it better justice but I don't have one. Timing was set to 30deg BTDC at least.

[datzenmike]

    Total timing, initial + mechanical (centrifugal) can easily run to 30 BTDC. On the Z24 initial is 5 BTDC and adjustable but mechanical is set by design. If you increase initial to say 10 degrees, the 10 + mechanical will now be 35 which is getting dangerously close to pre ignition. Most gas engines run in the low mid 30 total advance. The L series engine before the Z was comfortable at 33. The Z series design of hemi combustion chamber, dual plugs and cross flow is very detonation resistant, plus the initial timing (for emissions) is conservatively low to begin with. Stick with the factory recommendation of 5 +- 2 and you won't have any problems. What the PO was trying to do only he can answer. 

[captain720]

Just rebuilt the Weber 32/36 with a fresh kit from redline, I had a small accelerator pump leak and just decided to take the lid off and replace most stuff. It was very clean inside due to years of ethanol free gas, regular driving, and good maintenance. Video coming when I get it edited.

[captain720]

Weber rebuild video is live now. It does run a bit better after the rebuild and the fast idle/choke assembly is working much better now that it is not covered in mud.

 

 

[captain720]

Has anyone replaced the tiny shock absorber on the transmission and if so what part # did you use or at least where can I buy one?