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The case has been re-opened! CLOSED

 

Went out for a quick night stroll and I stalled while driving in 1st gear 1 mile out. Coasted to the side, took lid off and won't ya know choke has nothing to do with it. Rather the Secondaries were leaking. Wtf?! I was able to get er running poorly. Once I up-shifted she sounded fine but arrived home and she stalled again.

To note: I let er warm up, kickdown choke, and she idled perfect.

 

So now the question is where to go from here? Fuel return line? Carb insides? What makes it leak? Primary functioned ok while I had er running.

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So now the question is where to go from here? Fuel return line? Carb insides? What makes it leak? Primary functioned ok while I had er running.

At 7pm got to doing some reading and some answers were found. Below chart is missing an interesting idea.

36843217182_8bbcab2fb0_c.jpgoverflow diag by cad lab, on Flickr

36206181003_308a171792_c.jpgtank lines by cad lab, on Flickr

I removed the rubber hose from the metal fuel return line and placed another extended hose onto the metal fuel rail. Placed the extended fuel hose into a transparent fuel gallon. I removed the air assembly cover and started-er up. She warmed up, kickdown and idled normally. I constantly kept watching the secondaries and no leaks.

 

Fuel gallon had a light constant flow. So at least now I know that the fuel rail is not clogged.

 

Removed the fuel gallon and reconnected the rubber hose to fuel return line to fuel tank. Took a night drive, idled/ran normal. Idled when arrived back and secondaries had no leaks.

 

I'm still going to have the fuel return line blown out with compressed air tomorrow.

 

Here is a possible idea to the weird leaking secondaries: Fuel tank pressure increased with ambient heat which could of created a fuel return or "fuel air clog". This then could lead to the leakage.

 

This could be since that same day it was well over 100F. Tonight it was quite cool and on arrival there was no pressure released when gas cap was removed. I'll be testing this theory out as well.

 

I suppose it would fall on deaf ears to say better carb?    ^_^

I do apologize, I'm awful at filming. What ya think of this theory?

 

I'll definitely update on this.

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Did some maintenance yesterday such as oil change and fluid levels. All checked out great. Pulled one spark plug to check it's color for fun. It's looking orange with no carbon buildup. Dam impressed with it.

 

As for the above situation. It's been cool, below 80's which hasn't been good to test idea with but I also haven't had a single problem. No fuel pressure in tank either. So patience it is.

 

Took er for a stroll just to add more miles & test lens. 4K left till 290k, can't wait! :frantics:

36240143954_090cea9b9a_c.jpgDSCN0604 by cad lab, on Flickr

36678705590_52e857f943_c.jpgDSCN0600 by cad lab, on Flickr

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got a chance to finally do the front wheel bearings. Got the parts in about 3 months ago. Vibration finally got worse so it was time.

37268578615_eb3b1b5982_c.jpgP1030680 by cad lab, on Flickr

Overall not a difficult process. Remove caliper bolts and center nut. Pretty much all of it comes out.

37268637915_77684f8953_c.jpgP1030676 by cad lab, on Flickr

Remove, clean and install new one with grease. Fill er up with tons new grease. Aka remove all of the old shit!

37095949262_c9f8bb7065_c.jpgP1030677 by cad lab, on Flickr

Reinstall and tighten nut to 20-25lbs. Rebolt caliper and your done.

36453623983_a268db4389_c.jpgP1030678 by cad lab, on Flickr

Bolt on the tire and shake it. If there's any play somethings up. Otherwise your ready to roll.

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Stalling continued: Drove er to Novato. 70+ mph and stopped in Santa Rosa Nissan. In the 260 miles not a single stall occurred today. 

36430711074_c98d6e1fa5_o.pngniss by cad lab, on Flickr

I think it was this past Thursday when I arrived home when it stalled and flooded. I immediately had my neighbor hold the fuel pedal while I messed with the return line. Disconnecting didn't help the leak nor did removing fuel cap. I decided to drive back out again in which case when I returned home after 1 mile she didn't stall or leak.

Maybe the float needle is getting stuck and over flowing though the secondary?

I'm running out of potential culprits... We'll see.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Long time viewer. Been some time. Haven't had any issues lately and quite close to 286k.  :thumbup: It's been awesome to get in and go anywhere without a second thought. 

Currently debating on a trip down to Baja California during December...

 

Anyone traveled out of the US driving your dato? Any pointers on what to do mechanically other than an entire overhaul to the drive-train?

 

Still way out into the future, so anything can occur but I like to keep my brain occupied.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been chaos in the neighboring towns b/c of the fires, so not much has been done. Not a single stall and real close to 287k.

 

I did located the dealership where she was sold though. Before/ Present day:

37695473711_4d312a6bac_c.jpgTFB by cad lab, on Flickr

37695477971_73c097e151_c.jpgDBF by cad lab, on Flickr

Currently investigating past ownership's. I'd love to get some oics and stories, so a trip may be afloat.

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I did located the dealership where she was sold though. Before/ Present day:

ickr

Currently investigating past ownership's. I'd love to get some oics and stories, so a trip may be afloat.

 

We had a dealer here as well called Courtesy Datsun. Still in business today, and since the late 70s they have stocked everything from the DatComp/Nismo catalog on the shelves.  :thumbup:

 

1396557070722.gif

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  • 2 weeks later...

Oh no. Kill it quickly.

LoL.

 

What a day it was!

On my way back from Calistoga, I got stranded on the roadside.

All was well till I noticed the fuel and temp needles not reading. I ignored it and kept driving, few miles more and she started acting-up. Misfiring, pedal to the floor and barley any power. Finally total loss and she shut off @30mph. Weird. Got off the road and tried cranking er over. Nothing.

 

So I get out, pop the hood and check out the bay. Nothing out of the ordinary and no stange smells. All looked good. I open the driver door again and notice no beeping bell. Dead Batt Maybe?

 

Now I have to mention, I drove on Thursday to Esparto dead at night. Horrid rain ya couldn't see 10 feet with high beams. So all accessories were on high, pulling quite the juice. Close to half way I did see the Batt light come on briefly. Got home and drove to town the next morning with no issue.

 

So I called a friend, got a good batt and threw it in. Started right up. Let er run for a bit, disconnected the batt and she dies. Yup, alternator is suspect. Drove the 10 miles home without issue.

 

Checked all connections and cleaned all terminals. Belt is tight. Double checked the alt by disconnecting the batt and same thing, it dies. So it must of overloaded last night, and called it quits. Then again it's got well over 200k so that could be it too.

 

I've done some reading on the below link and seems like an upgrade might be possible.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/30652-re-wiring-the-alternator-a-series-with-l-alt-urgent/

 

From looking at pics it looks doable. Totally guessing but is a 50A to a 60A going to damage fuse's or melt wiring?

24128884598_3eeb53a104_b.jpg210alt by cad lab, on Flickr

24128884018_6d941f7450_b.jpg280zxalt by cad lab, on Flickr

Also does the "P" connection on the bottom ALT need to be wired? Is it used on the 280z?

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Totally guessing but is a 50A to a 60A going to damage fuse's or melt wiring?

 

No, you can run as high an amperage alternator as you want to.  :thumbup:

 

But...

 

Make sure all your connections are clean and corrosion free, and I would strongly suggest running an extra charge wire. Meaning add a second large diameter (at least 10 gauge) wire from the alternator directly to the starter main post. This provides a clean direct path for current to flow from the alternator to the battery. 

 

 

Also does the "P" connection on the bottom ALT need to be wired?

 

The T-plug and big post is all you really need. And the ground wire if it has one. 

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Thanks, datsunfreak.

 

Install was not plug'n play. but then again what is. New ALT is in my opinion very "cheap" but works.

 

Sizes are darn near the same. Bottom bracket bolt holes needed to be drilled out to 1/2" on zx ALT. 

That's it, all else was the same.

37964255646_e9b2a74fd5_z.jpgP1030688 by cad lab, on Flickr

26241725569_c2c4f90e7f_z.jpgP1030689 by cad lab, on Flickr

Stock ALT will be kept as a reparable backup. That's it for now.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been some time since I last posted. The rainy cold season has arrived and with it so has some issues :frantics: .

 

Diving into getting the heater working. So far I've gotten the shut valve opened. Changed fuses and inspected the wiring. Got high speed (#3) to finally work. Defroster has heat now.

 

Resistor will be need to be inspected, lower speeds are nonexistent. I'll be taking the motor out to grease and clean out debris if any tomorrow.

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