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Daryl

洋子 (Yoko) 81 210

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Thanks, Soundline. I do my utmost hardest to follow the manuals when I do any task. Leave er in better condition than originally was.

She's got quire the character. Driving er is a "trance" most of the time. Such a Joy. The mechanical simplicity and boxy views makes er all that more attractive.

 

For now I'm keeping er stock and seeing if we get to 300k miles. I'll be getting another A12a, rebuild and EFI convert.

 

Apparently I can't order the 756F accelerator pump by itself.

BUT I was able to find a kit that does have it!  Autozone - 1983 Nissan Sentra w/ 1.5L SONC uses the same pump. 
I may be one of the few that loves Hitachi and Nikki carbs... While consulting 3 manuals for compatibility.
 
Updated To-Do List for this week!
 
Get a spare non rusted wheel.
Tighten heater coolant line inside cabin.
Replace Output Shaft Seal.
Replace Idler Arm Bushings.
 
Getting down Wednesday to do both seal and bushing work since parts came in. Ordered the lower rad-hose and awaiting.

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I am the only one that loves Hitachi and Nikki carbs... 

 

Fixed.   ^_^

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I get the feeling of them being hated for all sorts of reasons... Lot's of em.  :rofl:

 

Idler arm is done.

 

You can remove the idler arm without having to remove the hinge bolted to the engine bay wall.

34205630913_22c163eea8_z.jpgDSCN0307 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Example

34628927930_e3bbf18958_z.jpgDSCN0310 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Clean up the arm and grease the bushings prior install.

34205629663_97e8083034_z.jpgDSCN0311 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Fill it up with tons of lube and tighten er up.

34628926800_f33fc14c40_z.jpgDSCN0312 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Hopefully that removes some of the steering play.

 

Oil pan gasket is wet on drivers side. Not dripping just wet. So far it looks simple enough. Just remove bolts and let the pan hang?. If its like that, I'll end up doing it Friday.

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Just remove bolts and let the pan hang?. If its like that, I'll end up doing it Friday.

 

Better to take it all the way out. Get it clean, straighten the edges, throw some paint on it, etc.

 

As I recall, dropping the sway bar makes it easier. 

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I get the feeling of them being hated for all sorts of reasons... 

 

They make good weights for a trot line...

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I really don't want to take anything else apart. Pan doesn't look like it's ever been removed or tinkered with.

But we'll see what occurs tomorrow as we dive into it. 

 

I'm sure the gasket has turned to stone. Quite the "Hard" situation.  :rofl:

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Got some work done yesterday and found some interesting info on er.

 

Removed drive-shaft and dove into the output shaft. Bugger was so F*ing tight!

 

34292275433_52cf79a415_c.jpgP1030412 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Got off after a while of carefully prying at it.

 

35102180945_96a1baea1c_c.jpgP1030411 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Here's a close up of the leaking seal and it's a one piece non-replaceable!

 

34971522661_3f3da5c3db_z.jpgP1030407 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Ordered one off rock auto. Won't be in till next week so I did the next best thing. Clean and replace the round spring. Pop back in and hope it lowers leak some.

 

34937719112_9534e5edda_z.jpgP1030410 by cad lab, on Flickr

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Now onto some better stuff.

 

Drive-shaft looks like it's been replaced sometime in it's life to the C-clip U joint style. Heck Ya!

 

34937726222_f9633348d1_z.jpgP1030408 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

35062294316_f15b141372_z.jpgP1030409 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Outa all the Nuts one took quite the damage. Need to locate stainless steel equivalents to replace all of em next week.

 

34971530631_8636804717_z.jpgP1030419 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Added half a cup of GL4 to top off trans.

 

35062319956_7ae8a69083_z.jpgP1030418 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Shes looking pretty on the underside.

 

35102173345_9fb8b1b14b_z.jpgP1030415 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

With canby around the corner, I underestimated time needed to replace parts. Should of done one large order in March. 

We'll It's a learning experience every time.

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Canby Itinerary - 洋子

June 9,10,11 - 2017

 

Route: HWY 128, HWY 1 (North), Drive Thru Tree Leggette, HWY 101, HWY 199, HWY 99, I-5 (Interstate), HWY 99E (East).

Distance: 578miles-1 way. / 1156miles-2way.

Time: 13hrs @ 45 - 50mph

Schedule:

Friday June 9:           Saturday June 10:     Sunday June 11:

Leave @ 6:00 a.m.       All-Day-Event.       Leave @ 7:00 - 8:00 a.m.

Arrival @ 7:00 p.m.                                       Arrival @ 8:00 - 9:00 p.m.

Cost:

Fuel ($3 per Gal x 9g) Full Tank Before Departure:

$190 Round trip @ 20mpg

$140 Round Trip @ 30mpg

--Total: $280 - $230 -- If all goes peachy.

 

34972492921_e9810b85b3_o.png2 by cad lab, on Flickr

35102962605_05c1b3b668_o.png1 by cad lab, on Flickr

Not going to lie I'm a slow driver even for being young. I get that a lot. Seen cars cut in half, no survivors. Leaves a mark in ya memory.

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Damn. Your leaving before I get there. Always fun to see other 210's. Good luck and safe travels.

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Damn. Your leaving before I get there. Always fun to see other 210's. Good luck and safe travels.

Shame, I'd stay longer but I got work Monday. We'll meet one or another way. You too, thanks.

 

Been stalking your build thread... You happen to have the same shade of yellow that my other 210 has. Crummy pic:

35145128815_f662cf6c3e_z.jpg561545_270557103055851_480719092_n by cad lab, on Flickr

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Friday, June 9th. We hit the road onto Hwy 101 with a gorgeous scenic route. Left @6am sharp.

 

Trees of Mystery & Drive thu Tree were on the bucket list.

35121020381_a0dd71bc60_c.jpgP1030425 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Pretty empty so pics came out great.

34863881720_cbf5666550_z.jpgP1030441 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Dam giant!

34863828120_544b2de063_z.jpgP1030451 by cad lab, on Flickr

35210993606_cbc14d7a06_z.jpgP1030453 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

First time on the 101 and what an awesome drive it was.

34441858923_7511064c5d_z.jpgP1030444 by cad lab, on Flickr

35121110691_4478b33b8d_z.jpgP1030446 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Arrival time in canby: 9:20pm. (15+ hrs @ 50mph).

35250702515_82b2bf66c2_z.jpgDSCN0321 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Partner in crime.  :rofl:

35210994726_017e79b55f_z.jpgDSCN0406 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Not a single breakdown, or any need for fluids (except fuel). That's quite the accomplishment for 1,352 miles.

On other note. Driving the I-5 came across another 80-81 yellow 210. Quite the Scene.

 

Had a great time & met some cool ratsun-ers. Monday's work day, so that about sums up what I did sunday night/mid-day.

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Fixed. ^_^

Not entirely true though.

 

Nice meeting you Daryl, I can put a username to car to face haha

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Trannys still grinding along in 2nd. Hasn't been doing all too good. Located a 60A to swap the F4W56A (56A) currently in yoko.

Would like to rebuild and drop in but I've hit another wall...

Can't locate F4W60A (4speed) synchros anywhere! So here's a Question: What are the possibility of using the FS5W60A (5speed) synchros?

Both are 60A series, so could I use the first 4 synchros and junk the 5th? Or are they completely different internals.

 

Quite the long shot unless someone knows where I can get some for the 4 speeds.

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4spd F4W62 Synchros(Baulk Ring) # 32604-H9000

5spd FS5W60A Synchros #32604-H9700

 

By number, they are different.

 

Maybe at www.bearingkit.com

 

I was able to get 5spd parts there, worth a try if you haven't come across that website.

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I've decided to go a different route. Shipping A-series stuff will crack my bank and doesn't look like a realistic setup for the long term.

 

So...

 

Picked up an L16 last week just in case I ever needed an L series for something. Today I picked up an F4W63A (26") to mate em. Both for under 200.

Went threw today and tore apart the L16. Internals are pretty good. Deep cleaning, definitely. Hone, re-ring, new bearings, & all new gaskets.

 

35397253286_31a7cc53cf_c.jpg00d0d_i3E4azyBOVO_1200x900 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

63A trans.

 

34626945003_cbd2da04d5_c.jpg04b14b8a879d1ff71766680e929f81363e83d6a1-1 by cad lab, on Flickr

35397250556_3c16d42a56_c.jpg5a6c497d12a2f043eaccd3617348c33b9f044f77-1 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

At least it sounds like a doable fun daily. Actually looked all over the net and couldn't locate pics with detailed steps on process. I'll be doing so then.

 

I'll keep using the A12 & F4W56A till I get this setup accomplished. Keeping the A-series drivetrain for smog purposes. 

Shooting for the next couple of months to have heart surgery underway.

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A10 crossmember makes bolting an L into a 210 an easy affair.

 

A10 member, 210 control arms.

 

 

Need A10 L20B oil pan and pick up.

 

 

 

I know of one member that I sent those specific parts to that has zero current plans to use said parts.

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You also can find 5 speeds easier/cheaper too.

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A10 crossmember makes bolting an L into a 210 an easy affair.

A10 member, 210 control arms.

Need A10 L20B oil pan and pick up.

I know of one member that I sent those specific parts to that has zero current plans to use said parts.

Great list. Pandora's tranny box has been opened. Lol.

 

Wonder if they would pass the parts along.... I sure could use em'... I'll post something in the classifieds.

 

Are the 210 control arms just the stock ones or do I need to fab em?

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Stock ones.

 

 

The member I gave my A10 stuff too will more than likely see my posts about it.

 

 

I aquired said parts to put an L18 in to a 210. Maybe THAT member will help me see my dream lived out.

 

 

 

 

 

I'm looking at you. You know who you are! Lol.

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I know of one member that I sent those specific parts to that has zero current plans to use said parts.

 

No you don't. 

 

Wonder if they would pass the parts along.... I sure could use em'... I'll post something in the classifieds.

 

Would probably pass along the oil pan?

 

I already have a vintage Datsun Comp 7 quart baffled oil pan (with windage tray!) for my freshly rebuilt L18.      :cool:

 

I aquired said parts to put an L18 in to a 210. Maybe THAT member will help me see my dream lived out.

 

Already headed that way...

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A10 crossmember makes bolting an L into a 210 an easy affair.

 

Also, been meaning to confirm this for about a year now, but something is telling me the sway bars are different. Might need the A10 sway bar too. 

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Also, been meaning to confirm this for about a year now, but something is telling me the sway bars are different. Might need the A10 sway bar too. 

 

This... We'll see as soon I locate the member. 

 

L16 has been officially called "cracked space."

 

Found two cracked bolts. One of which was a pain in the a## to remove. None the less it's bore measurements as within spec, so a re-ring we go.

34700524033_6e19e91800_c.jpgP1030626 by cad lab, on Flickr

35510043285_4f3847ca6b_c.jpgP1030627 by cad lab, on Flickr

34700501913_86545dcb42_c.jpgP1030628 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

We'll see how it goes from here on. I need to make a new list of stuff that is needed too.

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