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Hotspark L-series Distributor


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coils rearly go bad and if you tried 2 coils.

then try another module

If power still at coil then I don't think its the switch cause you still have power at coil.

 

So the module has to turn on /off but mabe the logic shuts off. or the distributor magent or ring bad(be honest Im just guessing now

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Thought there would be some respect on this web site for each other unfortunately can see that is not necessarily true.

 

 

 

Those that want to help, thank you ahead of time for your constructive input.

 

Welcome to Ratsun.

 

Abundance of testosterone here, from time to time, and even more good knowledge and rare part sources that sometimes can be found nowhere else.

 

Looks like you've got a pretty good stable of Datsun machinery and sooner or later someone is gonna demand photos.

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New switch. No loss of power at coil when it dies

 

Have you checked? New means unknown and should never be assumed good. When something goes wrong the first thing I do is look at the last thine I did or replaced. Face it, what are the chances of buying 3 HEI modules that are no good???

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Ok. Here goes, each time motor has died in have had probe at each terminal to watch for any power loss. None reported. Unplugged and or disconnected various circuits looking for a culprit to no avail

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Wired hei module in, ran perfect with original ignition before upgrade. Now truck shuts down after a minute or two. On 3rd hei module with same results. Air gap is good. Checked and at .012. I'm at a loss. Have run this setup on other trucks no issue. Now this one comes along and shuts down. I can turn power off and back on and it will start right up run for a minute or so then die

 

hvyd,

You are not original poster here and came on at post #19.

 

Your profile shows 79 pickup which. unless I'm mistaken, originally had a matchbox dizy. What distributor are you using with the separate HEI module?

 

As Mike said the module MUST be well grounded. I've done two module conversions (original to GM module on the 78 and complete non-matchbox setup on the 64 E1 engine) and insured a solid ground with a wire from one of the two mounting screws for the GM module to solid ground. 

 

Where have you located the module? 

 

Our pickup is a 78 so the module was originally located under the dash on upper kickpanel by glovebox. I located the GM unit there on an aluminum plate.

 

Before I did, I wired the module (laying on the air cleaner) up with short jumper wires and it ran fine.

 

A day or two after mounting module in cab I started having the problem that you're having. Got another module and had same problem.

 

Took module out and wired up in engine compartment with jumpers; Ran fine.

 

Finally traced it down to one of the wire terminals from the distributor pickup coil (the red and green) that go to the little junction box on top left of radiator.

 

There was a break in the wire inside the insulation and it would intermittenly loose contact from the vibration of running.

 

Long story short; if you have same problem, jump each wire one at a time till it runs correctly and you've found the problem.

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Would the NGK wires be spiral core or solid for my wagon and the Magnecor wires be spiral or solid for track 510? Been following the extra stuff that popped up on my original thread with an interest to changing the distributor on my 510 to the HEI type distributor.

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Get stock carbon core plug wires by NGK. There is no advantage to pricey after market stuff. They rely on you thinking that if you spend $100 more it has to work better.  Look up 'placebo effect'. Don't get taken in by all the false claims. Your engine won't run any better.

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