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Just a L-16, and its two big brothers.


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rockauto has the round intake gaskets I looked up 200sx I think78/79

Corteco brand its even metal ringed on exhaust. $2.44


Felpro on my squareports if the bolts get loose they do blow/burn out in the middle exhaust.


I would find a l16 manifold and y pipe if possible. I could never get the bolts on the lower intake exhaust. Was always a pain to get at.  I like th early L16 stuff. but if that's what you go that's what you got

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Manifold Installation.
First, clean the manifold surface on the head.  Clean the manifold surface on the intake manifold, and on the exhaust manifold.  In this picture, I am using a file to clean the manifold surface.  Try to bridge across at least two manifold surfaces, to keep everything flat.
Front port filed.
Middle port filed
Aft port filed.
Install the studs used for the exhaust manifold.  One in the middle, and one on each end.  Put the gasket on the studs.   If the gasket you use has a marking on it about what side goes to the head, pay attention to that.   Because I used a cut gasket, I put the top intake manifold bolts in to hold the gasket pieces in place.  Then I put the exhaust manifold on and the three nuts and washers on the three studs, just started them,  The four bottom intake manifold bolts were put in, again to hold the gasket pieces in place, because of the cut gasket.
If you use a cut gasket, you may need to push the gaskets pieces around a little.  I had to reach under the exhaust manifold, and push the center section of the gasket up.  Then I tightened the three nuts on the exhaust manifold, snug, but not tight.
On this engine, the rear lift ring also holds the PCV pipe coming from the crankcase.  Before I tightened the nut on the rear stud, I put the bolt that holds the rear lift ring to the PCV pipe bracket.  This bolt was tightened barely snug, the nut on the manifold stud was tightened, and then the small PCV pipe bracket bolt was tightened.
Then tighten the three exhaust manifold stud nuts.
Next, you just start the four lower bolts that hold both manifolds, with the thick washers.  Then you move the washers out to the end of the bolt, away from the head of the bolt.
Then you can set the intake manifold on the four lower bolts.  If you use a stock Nissan gasket that has sticky stuff on it, try to not contact that stuff until the next step.
While holding the intake manifold away from contacting sticky stuff on the gasket, start one of the top bolts in the intake manifold, and after it is started, shart the other three top intake manifold bolts.

This is a 12 MM socket on a U-joint.  It makes it much easier to tighten the two inner lower manifold bolts that clamp the intake and exhaust manifolds on number 2 and 3 cylinders.
This is the 12 mm socket and u-joint on one of the inner lower manifold bolts
this is the angle the extension has to be at to get the u-joint and socket on the 12,mm head of the bolt. 
You can also reach the two inner lower bolts with a 12 MM wrench, but it is a a tight fit.


Then tighten all then intake manifold bolts, working from the center out.

Tighten the manifold bolts and nuts 9 to 12 foot-pounds of torque.

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I just went to a fastener store or maybe hardware store with the threaded part of the injection tube and compared the threads to some plugs. I assume they are metric pipe threads?  They are on my old 620 engine .....somewhere.

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This arrived Saturday, right as I was leaving to go do other stuff.
On Sunday, I had about a half hour between church, and work, and tried it out.  Before using it, I put an old nitrile glove oner the distributor pedestal.



I poured a little bit of the cleaner into an empty 6 oz yoghurt cup, and used a small brush to scrub the grime on the engine.   after scrubbing, I rinsed the scrubbed areas with a diluted mix of Dawn dishwashing detergent in a spray bottle, and wiped with a rag.

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If you have a pressure washer, that will make quick work of de-greasing.


Be careful of letting the purple power sit on raw aluminum or plated steel too long, as it will destroy both finishes. If using it on either, I let it sit for no more than 5-10 minutes before I pressure wash it off. It will soak into the loose and flaky paint making that come off too, like the overspray on the timing cover.


Never use it on anodized surfaces.

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This is the basic process I am using to clean the engine, and it's parts.
Earlier, I took the thermostat housing off the engine, it looked like this.  I used an old knife to scrape thick crud off the part
This is after scraping the housing.  Notice the garbage can I was scraping crud into.
This is cleaning brush I am using, and some of the Purple Power cleaner in a cup below the brush.
Scrubbing the thermostat housing.
After scrubbing the part, I sprayed it down with Dawn and water.  This is just a short squirt of Dawn dishwashing detergent, the household stuff, in an almost full bottle of water.
This is after spraying the housing with Dawn and water, and drying the part.
Another view of the cleaned part, but I removed the thermostat cover bolts to clean them.
bolts, close view.


Wirebrushing the bolts


I then used a file to clean old gasket material off the head mounting surface, and then got a new gasket, and put it back on the engine.

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Nice dogleg Daniel!!! That's a long one. They came over from Japan on import engines. It will fit anywhere a 71B long fits.


Only the W58 had round exhaust ports. Looks like a round exhaust manifold was used on it.

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A 71B shifter will fit, close enough.





This one has the speedometer drive on the left side.





Look on the right side of the tail casting near the switches. Should have 63A embossed.


Daniel can you post a picture looking down on it? This will make it easier to see if L series bolt pattern.


I think these long ones were on non North American 610s. (there was an SSS option with 5 speed) The 610 we got came with a long 31.5" F4W63 four speed. The same four speed (more or less) used in the 520/521/510/710/A10 with the removable bottom oil pan on it.... just longer 




See that large bolt pointing down just forward of the rear mount? Has a rounded bulge under it? That holds a lever that the shifter engages to 'reverse' first and reverse around, otherwise the shift would be




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I was curious.  I drilled a hole in an old clutch disk, and put a bolt in it, making a crank.


This is the transmission crank I made, using an old clutch disk.



I found different positions of the shifter, by using a brass punch as a lever where the shift lever goes.

One turn of the output shaft turns the input shaft about 3.3 turns, about 2.0 turns, about 1.25 turns, 1 turn, and about .8 turns.  There is also a reverse.

Mike, you called it, it is a five speed transmission.


Did I mention I need a shift lever for this, and the five speed transmission I got from Pick-n-Pull in February.

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The shorter dogleg used in the S10 and optionally in the A10 has the same ratios as the sedan 510. (but not the wagon) They may be...


1st.... 3.382

2nd... 2.013

3rd.... 1.312

4th.... 1.000

5th.... 0.854

Rev... 3.364

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Are these the ones that have the short finger?


Wayno the striking rod hole for the plastic cup on the bottom of the shifter is quite deep. So a longer 'finger' just goes deeper into the hole. A shorter one is closer to the top. Yes there are longer 'fingers' that may bottom out. I used a long finger but I also swapped an '85 diesel tail onto my 71B that has the taller 'ears' and the pin also sits higher. I just grabbed a random shifter and stuck it in the dogleg I had and it fit.

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I want to do another pressure washing of the first L-20-B engine I got, but I need to plug some holes in it first.  I made this block of wood, to cover the EGR  and PCV ports on the intake manifold.
I drilled one hole in the cut block of wood, then dropped a M8-1.25 stud into that hole.  Then I clamped the EGR valve body on the block of plywood, and used that as a guide to drill the other two holes.
Then I put three studs into the intake manifold EGR mounting surface, and the block of wood I just made.
One last thing before I can pressure wash the engine. I need to plug the holes in the exhaust manifold, that were used  for the air injection pipes.  After unsuccessfully trying to find plugs to fit the holes, I decided to weld the holes in the pipe nuts closed.
This is how I did that.  First, the inside of the pipe nut holes were dirty. 
I put this old rifle cleaning brush on a drill,
and used that in the pipe nut.
that got the inside of the pipe nut pretty clean, or at least cleaner.
I put the pipe nut into one of the holes in the second exhaust manifold I have,
Do not forget to ground the manifold.
To start the weld, I did a short weld on one side inside the hole, down a long way into the hole.  I let that cool, then a short weld down in the hole, on the other side, and let that cool.  Then fill the gaps, between the welds, letting it cool a bit each time.




That is basically what I did to all four pipe nuts.

Because I started to weld from the hex end of the nut, the inside of the nut has some loose weld spatter.  I did some welds in the inside of the plugged pipe nuts to fill in the spatter, and prevent lose debris form falling into the engine.  I used a MIG (wire feed) welder, a Miller Autoset 180, on manual setting.  I used .030 wire, wire speed 60, voltage 5.1.  For reference that is close to the settings suggested for 1/8 steel, but a little slower wire feed speed, but slightly higher voltage.

I got curious about the transmission I got Wednesday, and pulled the speedometer pinion out of it.  It has 17 teeth.  I was hoping for more teeth, to use with a 4.375 rear axle.
This is the transmission crank I made, using an old clutch disk.

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This afternoon, after getting holes plugged in the L-20-B engine, I took it back outside, and pressure washed it, and the transmission it came with.  I also pressure washed the dogleg transmission I got earlier this week.
The engine, much cleaner than when I hauled it home

When it came home, Left side.
When it came home, right side.


The 1980 five speed that came with this engine, after some pressure washing.


and the dogleg transmission I got this week.

I am still looking for shift levers, shift knobs, and the small rubber boot for these transmissions.

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