Golde-boy Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 I also recently rebuild a single weber 45 and Im having accelerating issues. Im getting a bunch of recommendations of what it could be. Need help Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 I'm sure everyone will ask for more info... Like did it run before? Are you changing to this? What Motor and what head?.. Did you hook up a vacuum to your distributor? Etc.... Correct air fuel mixture and timing is key But in my opinion unless your a tuning guru find a good dyno shop that knows Webers and can help tune it... just because they know how to tune carbs they may not know how to tune Webers... 1 Quote Link to comment
willz Posted February 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 I haven't had time to install the carb yet, I know the 32/36 is a much easier option and makes more power buuuuut come on.... side drafts are sexy. I'm a "less is more" kind of guy and the single has been done with success so it was the route I chose. This won't be a daily driven truck and the fuel economy doesn't touch the 10-13mpg my lifted Land Rover sucks down so vacuum advance isn't a huge concern. I'd probably have a hard time not wanting to get on the throttle all the time... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 do 2 sidedrafts not one and save from the hassle Quote Link to comment
willz Posted February 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Maybe when I build up a motor I'll spring for the dual set up, but for now single is what I've got my heart set on Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 If you go single, go big (48 or 50) or stick to 32/36 weber, it'll run better. I love my single 48 mikuni, but she's tempermental. Quote Link to comment
willz Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 so this may be a really dumb question, one that i'm pretty sure I know the answer to but im going to ask it anyway. cooling ports to the old manifold.... jbweld or just block it with the manifold? Quote Link to comment
willz Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 oh wait, those are both terrible ideas, 1/4 screw in plugs with pipe thread.... duh Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 so this may be a really dumb question, one that i'm pretty sure I know the answer to but im going to ask it anyway. cooling ports to the old manifold.... jbweld or just block it with the manifold? The head portion, right? If so, manifold will block them, or plug them, either one will work, I don't know about JB weld though, the guy that rebuilt my head plugged them... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 I was lucky enough my new head didn't have the opening... I'd pipe tap it personally if I had to do it... not exactly sure if 1/4 not is the right size or not but if your gonna do it in the truck hopefully the hole is close to the necessary size to tap... put grease on the tap and go slow clean the tap off from chips as you go... 1 Quote Link to comment
willz Posted February 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 That's the route I'm going to end up doing, I don't think I've seen a how-to sticky of that yet so I might take some pictures and write it up. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 16, 2017 Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 Pm me if you need help or advice.... its not to hard just make sure your straight when you start tapping ... I drilled my oil galley plugs in the block and plugged with npt plugs... same process.... 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Just be gentle :) Quote Link to comment
willz Posted February 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 Super gentle, this won't be my first rodeo doing "head work". Back when I had my diy flowbench I did my own port work. Looking forward to working on it tomorrow 1 Quote Link to comment
willz Posted February 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 So I got the manifold mounted and fuel line is hooked up. The next question is what to do with the coolant line that runs from the lower passenger side to the thermostat? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 You mean the one that use to go to your manifold? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 This is what I did... below the thermostat i put a fitting that I connected to the passenger side. I've read some people will just delete that hose all together... but not 100% sure they may have been talking about the line that goes to the heater core... or both.... Quote Link to comment
shacks510 Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 That's how it is from the factory. You can get rid of it, just drill a 1/8" bypass hole in the thermostat and you'll be fine. 1 Quote Link to comment
willz Posted February 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Well, there's the line that comes off the thermostat, it T's off to what was the manifold coolant. It's a metal pipe. I'll take some pictures to show what I'm talking about Quote Link to comment
willz Posted February 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Exhibit A on the passenger side: And exhibit B on the thermostat: I see that I can plug the hole off the thermostat, but what exactly am I doing if I completely remove the line? Plus I'm not 100% thrilled about drilling and tapping more stuff (passenger side) Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 I'd connect the 2 and call it a day... mine came from my downdraft manifold over to the coolant outlet, it didn't t into the thermostat housing,.. but I have an 521 and the l16 I think you have an 620 and the l20... seems like minor differences... Quote Link to comment
willz Posted February 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Yea, 78' l20b in a 620 so I figured I had a different outlet then the others I've seen with no outlet for the thermostat Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Did they still use bspt on the 620s? The 521 has bspt not npt fittings on the coolant and oil fittings Quote Link to comment
willz Posted February 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 No idea, the passenger side is aluminum, no lip whatsoever and the one off the thermostat is, but I can't tell if it's npt or not. Just gonna hope I can get one size hose to fit both, they aren't far off Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 On a sidenote you can effectively run a 1/4 npt tap and recut the 1/4 bspt... did it to my coolant drain on the block and my oil sending unit hole and my thermostat housing twice with no problems... that info is even in the how to modify an L series engine book.... Quote Link to comment
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