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Single Weber 45 dcoe


willz

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I'm sure everyone will ask for more info...

Like did it run before?

Are you changing to this?

What Motor and what head?..

Did you hook up a vacuum to your distributor?

Etc....

Correct air fuel mixture and timing is key

But in my opinion unless your a tuning guru find a good dyno shop that knows Webers and can help tune it... just because they know how to tune carbs they may not know how to tune Webers...

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I haven't had time to install the carb yet, I know the 32/36 is a much easier option and makes more power buuuuut come on.... side drafts are sexy. I'm a "less is more" kind of guy and the single has been done with success so it was the route I chose. This won't be a daily driven truck and the fuel economy doesn't touch the 10-13mpg my lifted Land Rover sucks down so vacuum advance isn't a huge concern. I'd probably have a hard time not wanting to get on the throttle all the time...

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so this may be a really dumb question, one that i'm pretty sure I know the answer to but im going to ask it anyway.

 

cooling ports to the old manifold.... jbweld or just block it with the manifold?

 

The head portion, right?

 

If so, manifold will block them, or plug them, either one will work, I don't know about JB weld though, the guy that rebuilt my head plugged them...

 

20161022_223926.jpg

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I was lucky enough my new head didn't have the opening... I'd pipe tap it personally if I had to do it... not exactly sure if 1/4 not is the right size or not but if your gonna do it in the truck hopefully the hole is close to the necessary size to tap... put grease on the tap and go slow clean the tap off from chips as you go...

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Exhibit A on the passenger side:

 

3E1C4609-CA92-4B5F-A771-BA45BD753D99_zps

 

And exhibit B on the thermostat:

 

F8D21F3B-350F-4358-84A4-D9EF243D639A_zps

 

 

I see that I can plug the hole off the thermostat, but what exactly am I doing if I completely remove the line? Plus I'm not 100% thrilled about drilling and tapping more stuff (passenger side)

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