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sondat

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Seized heater core valve. Found the best remedy here on Ratsun, http://s272.photobucket.com/user/dat521gatherer/media/datsun 521 1971 green/SANY6688_zpsdf9eff5b.jpg.html   want to attempt to drive out using the wooden dowel along with a little heat and penetrating oil. Can't locate the mentioned set screw to remove before driving out valve.

 

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We have looked thoroughly around larger diameter housing were valve sits in water intake and see no set screw.

 

 

Edited by sondat

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Doesnt look like you have one?   Wouldn't it be at the end like in the picture below?   And AFAIK the only set screw is the for the white plastic knob.  But I never fucked with my heater so I can't say for sure. 

 

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Edited by d.p
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Ya, was wondering if the mentioned set screw was for the knob, mine was missing. That would not interfere with tap out of valve so will give it a go tomorrow. Is that your picture? All your extra valves?

Edited by sondat
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As I recall that tiny set screw(retainer screw) is on the outside, it's been so long I cannot remember for sure.

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Outside of what Wayno? I don’t see any screw head that would hold the valve from walking out of the tube/housing

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That picture helps, maybe ours is just painted over or something. A light sanding may reveal the screw head.

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As I recall you should be able to see the tip of the screw in the inside, that tip is what keeps the valve in the hole.

Unfortunately over time that valve starts to get harder and harder to turn, I have actually never in my life ever turned it to the closed position, mine are always open as when it is cold outside I have it open and the fan on full to keep me warm, when it is hot outside I have it open and the fan on full to help keep the engine cool, I just have the door window open when it is hot outside, also every 520/521 I own has a rear slider window, when it is hot out that rear window is open and so is the drivers door window as that really creates a cooling flow in the cab, so I have no reason to touch that valve.

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Mike Klotz did a write up on rebuilding the complete heater core/box.

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The handle on my heater valve is half of a nut cracker that was drilled on one end. The extra leverage is nice.

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Can I have the other half of the nut cracker mainer311? lol. Anyways I think the heater core has been tampered with prior. If you look at a picture I found on a different ratsun thread the end of the valve looks free in the housing where as ours looks soldered right in there (maybe to stop a leak). No success with heat and tapping with a wooden dowel, it broke the seal where the inlet tube meets the larger valve housing, so off to the rad shop it goes.

 

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Edited by sondat
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So now on to the next issue. I believe I was reading that the rods that run from the front of the frame back to the LCA's have adjustment for alignment purposes, correct? The larger nut on each rod is seized which is what probably needs freeing up for adjustment.

 

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Edited by sondat
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Tension rods. Mine were stuck pretty good too. It took a lot of heat to get mine free. 

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I don't think so. There is no adjustment on the tension rods. The tension rod is simply tightened to spec with good rubber bushings and then the vehicle is aligned. If nothing is bent the alignment job should run smoothly.

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Thanks Mike, we have new bushings. Did some reading that new rubber bushings are better than the urathane because it needs some give as not to bend the tension rods, this may have been a 510 issue though not 521’s. So I don’t see a need to mess with freeing up the large nuts if there not required for adjustment, will install and tighten new bushings/washers up to them.

Edited by sondat
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The rubber bushings are 'compliant' and compress with the up and down movement of the tension rods and the lower control arms. Poly won't and the rods are forced to bend... not good. Can you imagine one breaking while driving??? The tension rod forms one side of a triangle (frame, lower control arm tension rod) that rigidly supports the wheel in position and holds the alignment and steering in place. It prevents the wheel moving backwards when the brakes are applied.

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Played with the passenger side suspension a little tonight, opened up the bolt hole to replace the LCA bump stop with the energy suspension low profile one (mounting bolts bigger than original one). Also installed the tension rod so nice to clean up some loose ends there. The new rubber bushings are actually shock bushings but fit well.

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Happy new year Ratsun members, time for a little update on our build. So we did send heater core to rad shop, the on off valve was soldered in place with set screw missing. They freed up valve, added new O'ring and pressure tested. I had to locate a very small set screw, the local eye glass store gave me an assortment of screws to try and that worked well. I think I mentioned earlier that we opted out of shortening steering column. Here are some pictures of where we are at.

 

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Have front disc brake conversion installed with 2 tone powder coated callipers.

 

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Edited by sondat
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Looking good!  Keep at it and you will be driving a fine 521.

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Thanks Charlie69, definitely  looking forward to seeing it on the road. That light at the end of the tunnel is getting bigger, just hope it’s not a train. Work left that we are tackling is all wiring, fuel system and glass/door mechanisms. Once that’s complete it will go to local shop for exhaust, an alignment and a one over to check our work. My son goes for his drivers license next Friday so the pressures on now.

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Question for you Mike klotz. The passenger calliper has slight drag on the rotor to the outside stationary pad for only about 1/4 of the full rotation. Talking with a mechanic I know I was told this should be fine. The drivers side had heavier drag the whole rotation of the rotor, I could see this getting to hot. Possibly the thickness of the powder coating keeping the outer pad pushed towards rotor? I used 2 thin fender washers (1 per bolt) between calliper and aluminum calliper mounting bracket. This freed up rotor totally, no rubbing on either pad. Just wondering if this would cause any unforeseen issues. I will also mention to licensed shop when truck goes in.

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Pads normally just barely rub the rotor and is caused by the residual valve in the master retaining a few PSI in the front brake lines. This just keeps the rotor clean and does not at all significantly drag or heat them up.

 

There is no stationery pad. Both are free to move inwards as they wear down and are self centering.

 

If you have drag for part of a rotation then obviously the rotor, not the caliper, has a low or high spot depending on how you look at it. All I can say is this isn't right. Will it affect your braking? Probably not. Can you live with it? Probably.

 

When braking, the brake pedal my have a slight pulsing from the pads opening and closing as they go over the hump or down through the low spot, depending how you look at it. This will push brake fluid back and forth transmitting pulses to the pedal. Even very minor high spots on worn rotors will do this and it's annoying as hell. The cure is replace or have them turned down so they are parallel.  I would check the wheel bearing pre load is correct first. 

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