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sondat

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I Hear you Wayno on keeping these trucks on the road, I don’t see the spot welding being an issue either and yes I will confirm the inside threads are good.

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Luckily, I actually read this forum post notification.  I get a bunch and rarely have time to read them fully.  

 

YES....I completely agree with Wayne on the tack welding suggestion.  Good, stout tacks, but not beads.  The threads of the pin will hold it in, so the tacks mainly just need to keep it from spinning.  

 

Personally....I think I'd lightly grease everything.....make sure that the holes in your pins are completely clean and clear so that you can get grease in after assembly.  Get it all assembled and then do you tacks......then grease it good.  Should be fine.  You're only doing tack welds, so things should not get hot enough to worry about.  When doing the tack....use an air hose to cool it back down right after each tack.....or keep a damp rag handy to quench it......just don't quench it while the tack is red hot.

 

Worse case, you don't have a mig welder to tack it with in house....you can take the dogbone and LCA assembled and disconnected at the sun bolt....to a place or buddy that can do the tacks for you.

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Thought I was done with the mig but it’s no problem bringing it home from work for one more weekend. Like this idea better than trying to source another arm not knowing if it’s in good shape or not. Mike, I did dis assemble the passenger side and tried torquing the caps into the arm without fulcrum pin to prove those threads and they are all good. It’s been an educational day. Put passenger side back together and got spindle on, ready for that shiny aluminum calliper bracket. Thanks Wayno and Mike for the help/advise.

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I think I just about have everything out of the way so I can start on the brackets.  The guy in Japan as been waiting the first of Feb....he's getting anxious too. lol  I should be able to start on getting the mill setup tomorrow.....we'll see.....only 5hr of sleep today, so I'm dragging.....hopefully, I'll get a second wind by the time I get off work in the morning.

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When we did our rust repair on the box, had to replace metal that receives round metal gas filler tube. We need to re drill three holes for screws to attache filler tube. Need to know which way the filler tube is clocked cause there is a vent tube along side the filler tube. Truck just left yesterday for paint, will post pic’s when it returns.

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We bolted head on, then new timing chain sprockets, chain, guides and tensioner. Read on ratsun that L20's came from factory with cam sprocket on position 2. This is how we originally installed, crank is on TDC via dial indicator before head was on and cam also TC with dowel lined up with mark on thrust plate. With chain installed with bright links on both sprocket timing marks V groove on position 2 of cam sprocket is only lining up with half of thrust plate mark or line. V groove is advanced (to the right) of thrust plate mark. We then played around with positions 1 and 3, all three options keep the perspective V groove only half overlapping the thrust plate mark. Reading our engine assembly source it says that using an alternate option 1, 2 or 3 will fix this by advancing or retarding the cam to line the marks up. As mentioned this did not happen,  I also measured the distance on the cam sprocket from outside position 1 to inside position 1 and this measurement is identical as position 2 to 2 and 3 to 3. This then makes sense that changing position of sprocket is not advancing or retarding cam. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for any help

 

 

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Edited by sondat
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Did some more reading and discovered that the V notch on the cam sprocket is supposed to be to the right of the thrust plate mark, so we are good there. As for the notch and mark allignments looking the same on all 3 options I inspected my pictures closer and think there is a slight difference between the 3. Two then three each being slightly more advanced. Each should be 4 degrees advanced from the last.

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Did some math. The outside diameter of the sprocket hub (where the V notch is) is about 50.8mm, times that by Pi (3.14) gives a circumference of say for ease 160mm. Divide that by 360 is .444mm, this will be the liner distance of 1 degree on the sprocket hub. So moving the sprocket one position is 4 degrees which would be 4 times .444. So 1.77mm the V notch should move, or 3.4mm from position 1 to position 3. I don’t think I’m seeing near this amoun5 of movement.

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I did this video a long time ago and I don't remember any of the details.  I haven't watched it again, but it may have some info that will help.

 

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All that metal work has payed off, truck is painted with metallic grey and satin clear. there will be a gloss black nose added soon.

 

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Truck looks great.  Nice work bringing it back from the dead.

 

I set all my L20Bs at 2 position on the cam sprocket.

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Here's the final paint with black nose added, brought it home from paint shop last week.

 

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So time to get the engine/transmission in, hopefully happening soon. will keep you posted.

Cheers.

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Paint is sick!

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Thanks Charlie69, this truck is for my son, the way it’s turning out I’m going to want to keep it. Had a productive day today, installed timing chain cover, TC inspection cover, fuel pump, damper/pulley, valve cover and oil sump.

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You don’t like the rusty originals? Do you have pictures Greenthumb? They could be an option.

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If the paint and body did not look so good I would say rock the rusty wheels.  But the Titans might excite your son as I believe the Titans a 17 inches and should clear any disc brake setup you put on it.  The Titans open you up to doing front and rear disc brakes with Beebani's disc brake brackets.

 

I hope you have done or plan to do the at least front disk brakes on this truck as a safety measure for your son.

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Front discs from Mike Koltz and dual reservoir. Talking with greenthumb about rims.

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Rocking the rusty rims was a little sarcasm, my son wants to put something more updated on

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In my opininion Mike Klotz (Blue Hands) is the best quality and choice for the brakes.  With the Klotz brake kit you get your moneys worth and then some.  He is my go to guy when I need something made custom or need a part he already makes.

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Absolutely, purchased Klotz’s kit with aluminum brackets. He has thought of everything required, great kit.

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