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The plunger on the switch rides against the reverse shift rod. The rod has a low spot machined into it. The switch plunger extends as it drops into the low section when shifted into reverse and the switch closes. Hard to stick in an on position, more likely to stick in the off position.


The two wires may simply be touching each other completing the circuit.

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  • 5 months later...

  Been awhile since posting, my sons truck has been hibernating over winter. We have a couple fixes to do before spring arrives when it goes back on the road. Although we scoped the fuel tank and it looked pretty clean before we installed it there has been a lot of rust collecting in the fuel filter (see through filter). Some debris must have made its way into carburetor which plugged one jet along with throttle shaft sticking. Will drop tank, bought enough apple cider vinegar to fill tank to clean it followed by distilled water to rinse, will blow out new fuel lines and have rebuild kit for new Weber.

  Still fighting with door seals, ordered 3 different sets with none of them resembling the originals and not fitting. Have cleaned and restored original seals, temporarily tapped in place and they fit good so will be adhering them in place.

  Getting a squeal I think from the throw out bearing usually when reversing. Datsun mechanic guru said that the old Datsun bearings can be installed backwards since they are almost a mirror image which results in the pressure applying on wrong surface. Will drop trany and replace bearing. 
  Did some reading on recent posts, nice to get caught up, projects are looking good.


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Just buy several fuel filters and change, generally every 3 years, or oftener as needed. Nothing can get past the filter that's the point of having one however get good quality ones. I had one come apart inside the plastic cover once. The rust may be coming from the fuel lines and cleaning the tank may not help much. Keep tank filled, specially in the winter to reduce condensation build up. I would say add methyl hydrate to absorb water but most gas today is 10% alcohol and would hold any water in suspension any way..


Release or throw out bearing does not know if the transmission is in reverse or forward or neutral for that matter. It's under load any time the clutch pedal is depressed even sitting still. Idle in neutral and depress the clutch several times. If quiet, then not the release bearing. Possibly a U joint on the drive shaft that's now turning backwards reversing the load on it. 

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1 hour ago, sondat said:

Still fighting with door seals, ordered 3 different sets with none of them resembling the originals and not fitting. Have cleaned and restored original seals, temporarily tapped in place and they fit good so will be adhering them in place.

Sucks about the door seals....

Where have you been getting them?

Are they a 2 part seal?


I bought mine a few years back, at first I only got what they call a welt seal.... apparently that holds the main seal in place... I later bought the seal to go with it..... these were off ebay....


I've been putting off dealing with mine for 2 years now..... its next up after I finish what I got going on now....

Not looking forward to it....


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  Thanks for the response fellas. All the fuel lines are new, wondering if there was excess rust on the ceiling of the tank that I didn’t see with the scope. Went through 3 filters in about 3 plus months, each one about a third full of rusty coloured sediment. Using Wix brand filters, not sure on quality of Wix.

  Interesting about the possibility of the squeal being a u-joint but the squealing starts when Letting out clutch so before and during truck moving in reverse so maybe its in the transmission.

  I will look up my purchase history to see where all the door seals came from, they are all 1 piece that mounts to the cab not the door.

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8 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Try this. Place transmission in neutral with engine running and depress the clutch then let it up slowly as if it was in gear. Noise or not?


Try with the engine off. Could be clutch pedal linkage under dash.

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  • 11 months later...
On 2/18/2019 at 1:09 PM, datzenmike said:



This is the correct way with the gaskets facing the front of the engine. Be sure the plastic spacer also has that little notch facing the front. Last of all make sure the Phillips screw above that notch is the hollow one and hasn't been put in the rear screw hole. Without it you won't have a vacuum signal to keep the power valve closed when you don't need it. The primary circuit will run richer than it was designed to and your mileage will be less.


       Hi Mike,

         " If spraying around the gasket caused a change then the gasket must be leaking. I know it's a pain but remove the carburetor and look at the imprint of the carburetor on the gasket. If it looks OK peel it off and look at the intake side. There may be a tiny piece of old gasket that wasn't removed for the carburetor base or the intake. Check the carburetor base is not cracked. I would try to correct this first before trying to make any adjustments. "


       I think i found the cause of the vacuum leak. I had installed the bottom gasket upside down. That cutout notch was extending past the intake carburetor base ; there was a clear air passage. My unit does not have a power valve.

    What is your opinion on reusing the same gasket. It sill looks pretty fresh. I could always cut a new one.

   Alright, thank you.








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