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sondat

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oil pump I fill with thick oil then route a hose from the oil filter side and pump to the front cover.

 

if distributor is CCW all the way on timming plate either you need to try to adjust the 8mm under the dist and it will move the plate more or less in hopefull the dierction you need to go. losen both the 10mm hold down and the 8mm and try moving .

Or maybe off a tooth or maybe you have the wrong pedastal for that dist but highly unlikey.

 

also I prime my fuel pump , and carb see gas squirts in.  or maybe pour a bit in to get it to fire faster.

wait for oil pressure . warm up and I started just driving mine

 

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Ok boys, think I got the message. Just start the f’n thing already, lol. 

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The oil filters are huge, make sure to pre-fill it before spinning it on.

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Will do mainer311, it’s off right now anyways so I could get at the adapter for oil gauge install.

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Was a great day, cavalry showed up from my work (licensed mechanics). We primed engine, then fired it up. Not totally glitch free though, a vacuum issue (no measurable vacuum) which could be where we noticed a small fuel leak on the carb at the throttle shaft that enters carb. Couldn’t set timing or play with carb settings till these issues are rectified. Also we could only get rpm a little above idle even with throttle wide open. Was great to see every thing else come together though like good oil pressure (50psi), all new electronic ignition/wiring worked great and so on.

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No rev even at full throttle? Sounds suspiciously like improper cam timing. Could be distributor timing, but there would be popping or spitting associated with that.

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Well Stoffregen Motorsport, I’m definitely not going to rule out your expertise but I feel I researched and triple checked cam timing when we assembled engine. Will be looking into issue soon.

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Maybe it’s running pig rich and bogging real bad? Could also be the other way around and running out. 

 

Just thinking out loud.

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Spit balling, love it. Keep the possibilities coming. Hoping it’s just the carb itself. If so then as d.p. said earlier on “why not go to a new Weber”. Would be an easy fix to just bolt on a new carb. We had the original hitachi carb rebuilt and have seen a fuel leak already so I don’t feel to confident with it.

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Have been getting more electrical components hooked back up and have a couple other gremlins to cure. Because it’s been decades since I was running these rigs I can’t remember the workings of things such as the heater motor. Hooked it up and the 3 speed motor/switch seems odd to me, first switch position is fast and as you pull switch out more the speed drops. Thought it would be reversed to this (slow speed first). Second issue is having no turn signals/hazards. I haven’t got into metering things out yet but the initial state is with key on there is no turn signal function. Also it’s strange that when headlights are turned on the signal indicators on the gauge cluster light up solid (not blinking). I see in the wiring schematic that the turn signal switch needs to be grounded, woundering if this is my problem. With fresh paint on the steering column it could be a lack of ground there, I will check continuity to see.

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The Hitachis work and aren’t too bad once you figure out how they work. Don’t give up on it. Their two biggest problems are non-functioning (or poorly functioning) accelerator pumps, and the base of the carb wearing out where the butterfly shaft passes through, creating an air leak.

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Bad grounds are almost always the problem when it comes to electrical oddities. I believe the hazard switch can directly affect the turn signals, so check it for any problems. Remember that lights will find the easiest path to ground, even if it’s the hot side of another filament. On these old vehicles, the more grounds, the merrier, or something like that.

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This is where we noticed the fuel leak is right where the throttle linkage enters the carb. Was thinking it was a improperly installed seal, assuming this seal comes with the rebuild kit. What your saying is the carb housing could be worn out? Hoping this is our lack of vacuum issue.

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It would have to be a huge leak to have no vacuum. The hitachi carbs didn’t have bushings for the butterfly shaft, it was just a hole cross drilled in the aluminum baseplate. Over time the steel shaft wears into the aluminum and creates a leak, causing a lean condition at idle. It can be partially tuned out, but will never be proper.

 

You know, now that you mention a lack in vacuum, I’m thinking maybe it is a cam timing issue. Pistons are lowering, but if the intake valves aren’t opening at the right time, you’d have less vac.

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I will have to look back at all my pics and this thread cause there was some discussion during this portion of the engine build. Talking about what position to have the timing sprocket set on. It was position 2 by the way. I wonder if Shadbolt cams in Vancouver screwed our performance grind up enough to cause this issue?

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With what your saying Mainer311 about no seal where the butterfly shaft enters carb, since we have a fuel leak there that tells me the carb is done, time for replacement.

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Put a new Weber on it and quit wasting your time with a 40 plus year old carb.

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If the throttle shaft is worn into the case the throttle plate may hang up and not always close properly back to idle. If leaking any air it will only affect idle and that's what the idle mixture screw is for.... to get the mix just right for the air entering the engine.

 

You wouldn't have 'no vacuum' you might have low vacuum. If it runs it can't be that bad.

 

 

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Question came up about the 2 vacuum ports at base of card being plugged (from factory) I still have to pull carb to inspect

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Back to it! Had a couple weeks of visiting family but off work this week so trying to finish up some loose ends on the truck. Having an issue with the turn signals. The hazards work but turn signals don’t, when TS lever is pushed the light goes on steady, no flashing. I’ve confirmed the signal light housings are grounded as well as the turn signal switch. Not sure if this matters but the hazard lights flash at a slow rate (might be normal?) I tried a different flasher unit for the signals with the same result. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Cheers.

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Battery? 

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Might want to check the ohms on the ground side. It should be pretty low. If the impedance is high, you’ll get a slow blink/steady on condition.

 

Something else that helps is a solid state flasher unit and not a mechanical one. A little modernization goes a long way in this case, since it’s not relying on low impedance to heat a bimetallic strip.

Edited by mainer311

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