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sondat

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Thanks mrbigtanker, your ride is incredible. Get better and get out there with it, and not on the mentioned trailer either. Hopefully some pictures of our truck with a backdrop other than our garage for a change. This summer for sure.

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3 hours ago, sondat said:

Thanks mrbigtanker, your ride is incredible. Get better and get out there with it, and not on the mentioned trailer either. Hopefully some pictures of our truck with a backdrop other than our garage for a change. This summer for sure.

Yes sir. I plan on driving more. My new Fj20 should be done with in a few months. So at a certain point it will be down again for entire drivetrain swap. Plus will clean up engine bay a little more. Looks like he’ll in there. .lol

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4 hours ago, mrbigtanker said:

Yes sir. I plan on driving more. My new Fj20 should be done with in a few months. So at a certain point it will be down again for entire drivetrain swap. Plus will clean up engine bay a little more. Looks like he’ll in there. .lol

 

What did I miss? What happened to the FJ that's already in there?

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Fortunate to have today off work so a full day in the garage. To do list is… permanent mounting of distributor, spark plug leads, install universal hood release cable (original is to far gone) this will allow radiator to be bolted in place, install steel water passage that runs around front of valve cover. Will take a few pictures and post later.

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6 hours ago, mainer311 said:

 

What did I miss? What happened to the FJ that's already in there?

That’s fj #1, I have FJ #2 in shop being fully built. I have 2 engine builds going at once. I’m a busy guy. I have a wagon also. 

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Mornings gone well. Have the distributor in with spark plug leads and wired up to the ignition module.

 

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Then onto the hood release. bought a universal cable which adapted in quite nicely. The old one was pretty rough and didn't seem long enough, it would web out at front drivers corner of engine bay. Once hood is latched there seems to be too much tension on the catch because the pull cable won't release hood, it was the same way with the old cable.

 

Old cable

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New cable with compression springs and screw on stopper

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Edited by sondat
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On my truck I ended up using a chevy truck cable. A lot longer but worked well. Love it. Looking good. 

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By the way love the hose clamps. Looking good. It's the little things. 

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9 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

You can buy after market hood release cables on Ebay.

 

Datsun 521 hood release cable

There 2 short. I have an NOS one and it’s sitting in a bag, were it will stay. 

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The universal hood release isn’t working out so well. The hood latch mechanism’s themselves work freely but once hood is latched, pull cable won’t release hood. You have to pull way to hard and I don’t like that the hood catch spring isn’t strong enough to return the catch, you have to manually push the cable back in. Maybe one of your suggested cables will work better.

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 Get a 620 release. They're virtually the same but comes with a lever rather than a direct pull. The 610 and 710 are direct pull. The thing is they should release and latch without undue effort. Is the mechanism lubed ? Is it set too tight a closing pressure?

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Thanks Mike, I’ll look into the 620 pull. The closed/latched tension is quite tight. There are new rubbers that hood closes against near front of hood/fender gap, I have already shaved a little off to help reduce some tension but it is still latching pretty tight.

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1 hour ago, sondat said:

Thanks Mike, I’ll look into the 620 pull. The closed/latched tension is quite tight. There are new rubbers that hood closes against near front of hood/fender gap, I have already shaved a little off to help reduce some tension but it is still latching pretty tight.

 

There is also an adjustment that can be made with that large spring that's attached to the hood latch.... 

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620 hood release cables are available on ebay also.

7 hours ago, mrbigtanker said:

There 2 short. I have an NOS one and it’s sitting in a bag, were it will stay. 

I have had the opposite experience Mr Tanker the after market hood release cables are too long for my 520.  But I expected this.

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6 hours ago, sondat said:

Thanks Mike, I’ll look into the 620 pull. The closed/latched tension is quite tight. There are new rubbers that hood closes against near front of hood/fender gap, I have already shaved a little off to help reduce some tension but it is still latching pretty tight.

Was it just as hard to pull the lever with the old rubber bumpers before you put the new ones on?

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Hey Wayno. It’s been almost 3 years since we’ve popped the hood when we brought the truck home before we tore it down to the frame. I don’t remember it being difficult to pop the hood open. It was missing the release cable though, there was a little piece of the broken pull cable left that you would grab by the grill. The factory cable we tried first (recently) was from the parts truck. Also the original rubber stoppers were dried out and flattened(less thick) than the new rubbers.

Edited by sondat

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20 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

620 hood release cables are available on ebay also.

I have had the opposite experience Mr Tanker the after market hood release cables are too long for my 520.  But I expected this.

I would like a little longer. The factory one hangs out or off in left front corner. Drives me crazy. But don’t have that problem no more.

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1 hour ago, mrbigtanker said:

I would like a little longer. The factory one hangs out or off in left front corner. Drives me crazy. But don’t have that problem no more.

 

He said....

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

 

He said....

Yessssssss

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The 520 engine compartment is about 5" shorter than the 521.  This is why the after market cables are too long in the 520s.  The 520s also have a mechanical apparatise that also shortens the hood release cable but I have eliminated the mechanical aparatise on my 520.

 

Sorry for the thread jack~

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Well, it’s looking like this Saturday is the day, the first start up of our rebuilt L20b. Have to admit, a little nervous. We have a friend from work who’s our heavy duty fleet mechanic coming to assist, bringing his timing light, exhaust tube (extension to keep fumes out of garage) and all his knowledge. Will prime engine, ensure we’re getting oil to the top end then fire away (we hope). We will have oil gauge connected to monitor. Will gladly except any info/advise on an initial startup. Anyone know the proper break in rpm’s and duration? With that I guess I should be hooking up a tachometer.

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Get a ZDDP additive for your oil and change it and the filter after 100 miles. For oil during the break in, you can use the cheapest 10w30 but when changing it, get a Diesel oil like Chevron Rotella T4 that's already high in ZDDP. Don't use today's lower level ZDDP oil formulas.

 

AS soon as the engine timing is set and checked for leaks and warmed up get it out on the road. Drive it as soon as possible. Avoid excessive idling, keep the engine revved up and working. Avoid RPMs above 4K for now but don't be afraid to floor it above 2K. To 'break in' the rings they need to be forced against the cylinder walls by making the engine WORK. In town keep changing gears up and down and if possible get out on the highway and accelerate hard from 40 to 65-70 in 4th. If no room use 3rd from 30-60. Let the engine slow the vehicle down by itself, no braking. (you'll need room for this) This slow deceleration will allow the oil to flush away any fine worn particles from the walls and rings. When down to 30 floor and repeat 20 times or more. A hilly road is excellent for this. Keep an eye on the oil gauge or light and the temperature gauge. Listen to the engine for misfiring or anything out of the ordinary. Stop every now and then and check oil and coolant level and look for leaks.  An afternoon of this will complete most of the break in and for the next 500 miles the engine will be simply polishing the cylinder walls even smoother.

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Thanks Mike, not quite ready to be on the road yet. We’ll do the initial start up, set timing, not let it idle too much and then shut it down. We will be sure to follow your recommendations once it’s on the road. The oil in it is the recommended high ZDDP so we’re good there.

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Should still be on for initial fire up tomorrow. here are a couple pictures to support a couple questions.

 

We had the carb rebuilt for us and not to sure how the fuel adjustment screws were left. Do we just try to start as is or should we run each screw in and back off a certain amount of turns? 

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 The engine is at TDC (compression stroke). The lash was all set up during assembly of the head and the new timing chain set is on position 2. We left the set screws for setting the distributor just snug enough to adjust during fire up. As for the initial position (clocking) of the distributor for first fire up here are a couple pictures with a pen mark showing centre of #1 cylinder cap contact. Currently rotor is set leading up to #1 contact, should it be centred to #1 contact? Adjustment of distributor is almost bottomed out in the counter clockwise position.

Thanks for any help Ratsun members.

 

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Edited by sondat
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