d.p Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Understood, going to tackle the fronts this week. is there a c-clip on 521s? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Me and Icehouse on here took it off from the front on his 521. But kinda forgot how to do it We didnt use the c clip method. Wanyno would know more Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Understood, going to tackle the fronts this week. is there a c-clip on 521s? There is on the end with the adjuster ... if you remove the torsion bar from the a arm you don't need to worry about the clip... just remove the adjuster bolt and pull the whole bar out... as others have said mark where things are now to help know where things were once you start pulling the bars out... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 The clip just holds what they call the anchor... remove the c clip and you can remove the anchor from the torsion bar... I guess it depends which end wants to free up easier... on mine the anchors were really rusted on so removing from the a arm was the easier way... Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 62 is the adjuster bolt in that picture? I take that out and then slide the torsion bar back towards the rear? Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 Yessir. It has an acorn-ish looking head allowing the torsion arm to articulate about the head a bit Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 I would take the one with the fewest threads up top showing out first, re-index it, then take the other one out and put it in at the very same exact angle as the other one, then put the bolts in and tighten them up so they just clear the frame, set it down and see if you got the result you wanted, if it is low enough, then lift it back up and put the lock nuts on. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 Do I have to jack up the control arm/wheel after/while I re-index it? Or can I just remove the adjuster bolt, re-index the torsion bar and then reinstall the adjuster bolt? The video how to has the guy jacking up the wheel while re-indexing it. And you are saying to re-index the driver side (less thread) then match the passenger side torsion bar to the drivers side? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 When I did mine I just jacked the vehicle up in the front to take the tension off, let the wheels hang.. removed both torsion bars.. with the jack I could raise and lower the truck to see what i liked.. remember once reinstalled it will lower till tension is on the bars. May have to set a bit higher than your intending so it will be where you want under full weight... i reinstalled both and evened out the anchors to match. Once i was happy where the ride height was i adjusted the tension as the repair manual says.. the archor bolts will fine tune the height left to right.. There's probably a few ways to do it. If your on a lift or frames on jack stands you would have to jack up the a arm.. Once you start pulling it apart you'll understand more. it all depends how low your trying to go up front.. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 All done boys, thanks for all your help and pointers. In the end it was straight forward and I got it spot on the first try. Front FTG: 25 1/4" Rear FTG: 26" Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Looks good 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 And a slight rake to the front. Not bad at all. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 i think you should put the steel stock wheels back and take another photo for us most time when the chevy ralley are on one has to lower 4in or more to get it to look right. that when things go bad. angles .trans noise ect ...... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 I will put the stock one and take a pic soon. Just a PITA taking 23 (lost one) lug nuts off and putting them back on while trying not to mar the chevys. Agreed but mine isn't lowered that much, 3" blocks in the rear and down 2" in the front (1 spline) so I should be ok. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 Don't forget to check the toe in. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 Yeah I will, just need to find time to get an alignment done. Truck is garaged for the winter so not being driven, but will be sure to get it done. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 27, 2017 Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 I align the toe myself. Find my build thread about' my Island '76 goon'. Lowered several inches and was toed in. Basically you use the front tires or rims to point string out to the front of the vehicle about 50'. Measure between the string in front of the wheels and 50' out. The farther out measurement will be shorter because the two strings are converging. Adjust the wheels until the 50' mark is about 6" less than the measurement in front of the wheels. On a 100' diameter circle, each degree is about 0.87' or about 9.5" wide so this would be about 1/2 a degree on two tires. I run mine about 6" or just under 1/2 a degree. Just saying this can be done yourself. I have about 10K miles on it and no wear showing which is preferable to leaving them where they were. Quote Link to comment
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