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720 Clutch/ Flywheel


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Depends on which 280z; some used 210 mm clutches and some used 240mm. The 720 uses a 240mm clutch. I'm not sure about the flywheel comparisons; I've never had a 280z apart. Hopefully Datzenmike can provide some input.

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May i ask why would you want an aluminum flywheel for your 720?  A heavier flywheel gets a heavier vehicle moving "better" in normal driving conditions ..  A lighter aluminum helps if your spinning it up in the revs if you're racing around ,, but a Napz 24 doesn't really make power up there.. And it might make it a pig in normal everyday traffic driving


((Used the word better as i am getting ready to jet outta here and can't think of terminology right this second))


Not hating ,, just asking

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Banana, that was kind of my thinking too. From what I've read and experienced with my own 720, the powerband on the Z24 is roughly 3300 to 4200-4500. From the literature I've read, the Z24 was really designed for bottom end performance, and fuel economy. If you're looking for marginal gains in acceleration, maybe run smaller rims/tires, switch out the Hitachi for a Weber carb if you don't have to past rego or emissions, or even do some weight reduction. If you're really trying to get it going, you may want to consider a KA24e swap. As for clutches, I went with an Exedy organic clutch kit, and it's worked as expected for me. 

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Well actually my tranny went out and even though it was a future plan to restore the truck it has now become time to do that. I guess I'm from the school if you need to replace it, upgrade it.

I am planning to add dual mikunis to the set up, rebuilding the engine and adding a header.

Not trying to take it to the track and it will somewhat be a daily driver.

This is a forum for idea swapping and that is why I asked the question, so I will not be a "hater"must an asker.

Any experience in this is appreciated. I have spoken with friends who have owned these and although the popular vote says headers are a waste of money and so are the flywheels, these guys had that set up and like it.

Thanks to l motor God for the link

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All 280z had 225mm clutches except maybe the 2+2, ... only turbo 280zx and all early 300zx  had 240mm clutches.

You have a 240mm so just get the correct one for the 720 you have.

If you want something stouter maybe one from the later D21 Hardbody.

Do not go with an aluminum flywheel. Trucks are heavy and need lots of spinning mass to get them moving. Same with header.... the stock exhaust breaths well enough for the range you will be revving in. Save this money and buy a Weber 32/36 or side drafts. A 32/26 is way more cost effective.


Best bang for the buck is a better ratio differential. The 720 2wds were no better than 3.90 and some were 3.545. Try to find a 4.11 or better yet, a 4.375.... best $100 you'll ever spend and does not affect engine or transmission..

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Because of the poor head design you can't add a lot of lift and duration or the valves touch. Beware after market cams as they are almost the same as stock.


Stock valve lift is, I believe 0.413", same as the L20B and duration 248. It's unclear if this is total duration or measured at 0.050" valve lift, probably the former.



You may even find a diff for free! Look on your engine tag for your cutrrent diff ratio.The tag is located under the pass side hood hinge on the inner wheel well. Bottom line ..


TRANS/AXLE....... FS5W71B.... HF39 (or HF35) 39 would be 3.90

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