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rinigado

My island turquoise 521

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Part number 41214-04100

Found another bag from the same trip to the dealer. There are three different parts that all have the same shape. The silver one in the pic is a shim

yeah, should be 3 pieces from the manual. I saw one place online selling a set with just 2 parts; likely without the shim? I'm guessing that's an easy way to end up missing the clips later on!

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The front will work on the back and vice versa.

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Couldn't find all 3 piece of the adjuster clip, or even the two clip pieces (not the shim) at one dealer. Sacramento had a couple of the pieces and a dealer in San Diego had a couple. Datsunthug if you have one set you'll part with, pm me the cost and PayPal info.

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I have a bunch of some, maybe a couple of the others.

 

I don't remember which all I have.

 

If thug can't get ya squared away I'll send some off to you.

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Hey rinigado

 

Love your new Datsun truck....looks like a lot of fun for sure...wheels look like what I had back in the day (1980's)....wow so long ago now...keep up the great work...

 

MikeC

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Parts on the way!! Keep us posted

W00t! Got a box of parts from rock auto today too so with any luck Saturday I'll get the rear brakes sorted.

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argh...have a piece of hard line going to one brake that has a rounded over nut. Time to run to the local shop before daylight runs out. 3/16 inverted flare sound right?

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Yes, 3/8-24 flare nut threads is stock. 

Some 620 brake parts will fit on a 521 truck.  If this happened, the fasteners on a 620 truck are metric, and the brake lines use M10-1.0 flare nuts.

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Thanks a ton Datsunthug, the wheel adjuster clips showed up in the mail today!

 

I replaced all the brake hardware on the back of the truck, and one piece of hard brake line on the drivers side back wheel. Everything went as smooth as wrestling with brake springs can go, and the brakes look mostly like they're supposed to, except for a gap at the top where the shoes should meet the wheel cylinder.

 

brake1_zpsj4kbykdk.jpg

 

and a bit closer view

 

brake2_zpskgu7wxzk.jpg

 

I ended up screwing around in town for a while this afternoon chasing parts and other stuff, and ran out of daylight. So I wrapped up most of the work installing new parts, without refilling fluid and bleeding the system. The parking brake is working fine right now, and I roughly manually adjusted things but did not do anything yet with brake fluid, bleeding, or any interaction with the brake pedal. The wheel cylinders are both completely retracted right now, since I didn't send any brake fluid into them yet. Obviously the piston will push out once I apply brakes but I didn't want to do that until I get some opinion here on whether this gap seems expected or not.

 

The extension link seems to be slotted in correctly, but that seems like the only thing that would force this gap. Is that gap a normal thing to see give the wheel cylinders haven't been extended at all? Wheel cylinders and shoes look to be same dimensions as what I took off. 

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It should be resting against the wheel cylinder, did you get the metal piece between the shoes just below the upper spring backwards?

It is made with an extra notch for the e-brake lever.

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It should be resting against the wheel cylinder, did you get the metal piece between the shoes just below the upper spring backwards?

It is made with an extra notch for the e-brake lever.

I'll have to take another look in daylight tomorrow. I thought I got that longer slot in the right place for the parking brake lever, but I'll check. Seems like that's the only thing that could be causing the space.

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Maybe you have the e-brake adjusted too tight and that is forcing the shoe out.

You need to disconnect the e-brake cable in the center and let it lay on the ground, then adjust the adjuster so that you can just get the drum on, then adjust the rear brakes so the shoes are just starting to drag, do both sides, then when the brakes are done/adjusted, then re-connect the e-brake cable to where when you pull the e-brake lever it comes up 2/3rds of the way, it might be too tight, so it might need adjusted/loosened just to get it back together.

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I agree the ebrake may be set to tight but Doesnt the system need fluid and to be bleed properly before setting the ebrake? I assume you'd want the wheel cylinders extended and the hydrolic part of the brakes set before adjusting out the ebrake.. Just asking this because that's exactly how mine came out . right now I am without a master cylinder so i cant bleed my system but I needed the ebrake at least to keep the truck from moving..

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I agree the ebrake may be set to tight but Doesnt the system need fluid and to be bleed properly before setting the ebrake? I assume you'd want the wheel cylinders extended and the hydrolic part of the brakes set before adjusting out the ebrake.. Just asking this because that's exactly how mine came out . right now I am without a master cylinder so i cant bleed my system but I needed the ebrake at least to keep the truck from moving..

 

umm....

 

Maybe you have the e-brake adjusted too tight and that is forcing the shoe out.

You need to disconnect the e-brake cable in the center and let it lay on the ground, then adjust the adjuster so that you can just get the drum on, then adjust the rear brakes so the shoes are just starting to drag, do both sides, then when the brakes are done/adjusted, then re-connect the e-brake cable to where when you pull the e-brake lever it comes up 2/3rds of the way, it might be too tight, so it might need adjusted/loosened just to get it back together.

 

he said to wait until they are bled and properly adjusted to set the ebrake. so yes you can't properly set the ebrake until everything else is done. try some wheel chocks, rock or block of wood?

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That wasn't clear to me in waynos post about bleeding the brakes. No where did he say bleed the system first. it just talked about adjusting the clearance on the drums and shoes.... and without jacking this guy's thread. Yes I know about wheel chocks but I need to load mine on a trailer soon with no hydrolic brakes hooked up ... I wanted some way to stop it on its own....

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look again at my post, i bolded the part that i read as the brakes need bled. hold on, i'll put it in quotations and on it's own line

 

"then when the brakes are done/adjusted"

 

done and adjusted. you have to bleed the brakes to adjust them properly and/or be done with the brakes. they have to be all the way back together first.

 

either way, if your shoes and everything are in there i guess you could use the e-brake but i wouldn't trust it personally because you have a gap between a shoe and the cylinder. who know's, you may have more luck than me. i've run myself over with a 620 before

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Maybe you have the e-brake adjusted too tight and that is forcing the shoe out.

You need to disconnect the e-brake cable in the center and let it lay on the ground, then adjust the adjuster so that you can just get the drum on, then adjust the rear brakes so the shoes are just starting to drag, do both sides, then when the brakes are done/adjusted, then re-connect the e-brake cable to where when you pull the e-brake lever it comes up 2/3rds of the way, it might be too tight, so it might need adjusted/loosened just to get it back together.

OK so here's waynos post you copied and highlighted... no where does it say to bleed first.. only says when brakes are done/adjusted... maybe your assuming done means bled but that's not how it reads... all I was trying to do was clarify...

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OK so here's waynos post you copied and highlighted... no where does it say to bleed first.. only says when brakes are done/adjusted... maybe your assuming done means bled but that's not how it reads... all I was trying to do was clarify...

they have to be bled to be adjusted properly so done/adjusted to me means they have to be bled in that process. even if they didn't have to be adjusted done still means bled to me. don't know how you read it any differently but ok. we can wait until wayno gets back on

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The hand, or emergency brake does not need brake fluid to work.  It is a completely independent system, so in case of a fluid leak, you can still stop the truck.

 

Once the brake shoes are adjusted, there is a turn buckle under the truck, under the drivers seat, that adjusts hand brake slack.

 

Have you downloaded the Nissan 521 chassis service manual?  It shows you a lot of information about your truck, including brakes.

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Wow some one woke on the wrong side of the bed... do you need a hug?....

I agree they need to be bled so I don't understand what your issue is...

The first thing rinigado said was he had not bled the rear brakes yet and thenot the posts went straight to adjusting the ebrake with no mention of bleeding. And then you chimed in on my comment ... now this guy's post is littered with our conversation.. you could have simply stated yes it need to be bled first... i never assume any thing has been done....

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