New Timing Chain L20b position 1 , 2 or 3, chain seems to bind on 2

[Mitchell]

If I'm not particularly interested in performance, should I just use setting # 1 to get best service time out of the chain? I've put it on 2 but it seems too tight, because when i push the vehicle backwards to line up the timing mark to check timing, it seems like the chain is binding. Thanks, Mitchell

[wayno]

It's supposed to be in #2 hole, are the #1 cylinder cam lobes at 10am and 2pm?

[flatcat19]

Do you have the timing cover off while doing this?

 

 

If not, do you have the chain wedged?

[banzai510(hainz)]

don't push vehicle backwards.

#2 is stock setting L20

 

YOUTUBE: Hainz L series Datsun

[datzenmike]

L20B is set to the #2 hole at the factory.

 

Number #3 position is used IF the chain is shown to be worn and has slack. There is a specific way to check your chain stretch.

 

The chain cannot be too tight in any position it is placed. There is a huge amount of slack even in a new chain.

 

The chain should be checked for stretch by turning the crankshaft in a clockwise direction only up to TDC. This is the only way to move all the slack over to the right side. If you over shoot TDC, back the engine up half a turn and try again. When you have the crank exactly at TDC the chain stretch can be checked.

[KoHeartsGPA]

All of that ^

 

L20b are very simple, don't overthink this.

[Mitchell]

Doesn't fire up yet. I did have the timing cover off when I replaced the chain, sprocket, guides, tensioner, seal and crank gear. All of the parts are from a new L20B OSK set. I did notice the oiler was badly damaged and have one on the way. I will double check the 10 and 2 position of the camshaft in the morning. I followed hainz video, watched several times before beginning, THANKS Hainz! The oil pump distributor shaft is at 12 a bit concerned something is wrong. Unfortunately I didn't check 10 and 2 position of the camshaft and only matched up the bright links with the marks on the sprocket and crankshaft gear. I am certain the chain stayed on the marks though. Thanks to All for your comments.

[KoHeartsGPA]

Post updates and vid of her running when you get it going!

[datzenmike]

The 10 and 2 cam position is only to indicate that you are on the compression stroke of the #1 cylinder, nothing else.

 

First you must set the timing mark on the crankcase pulley on the zero on the timing scale. This must be set in position only by turning clockwise. As mentioned, you must back up half a turn if you over shoot the mark and try again. This might take 5 or 6 tries to get right.

 

Once TDC is properly set look down the back side of the cam sprocket. There will be a V shaped notch and just above it a small horizontal etch mark. The V must be below or very slightly to the right. If the V is to the left the chain is stretched and you need to move it to the next number such as the #3 hole.

 

 

This timing chain is perfectly set up. Notch is just slightly to the right of the line above it.

 

 

If you set TDC by backing up counter clockwise there will be slack introduced on the side that should be tight and your reading of chain wear will be a waste of time.

[shacks510]

Interestingly enough, the OSK timing set does not have the notches on the cam sprocket... I used an old sprocket to line the cam up, then used the new sprocket.

[Mitchell]

Thanks datzenmike! I appreciate your explaining about rotating clockwise not to introduce slack...makes sense. The spray oiler is almost down to the stub plus a little 'T' shaped tab of metal remains on what was the spray post. BTW, this motor was rebuilt only about 18K ago, it appears they might not have replaced the timing chain, since it was so stretched. Would you recommend a D21 oil pump with synthetic, should it be upgraded to increase the life to the motor? On another note, the shop used full synthetic castrol 10-30W. I've been told to stay with synthetic. Would you think that the lighter weight synthetic contributed to early failure of the timing components?

[Mitchell]

The OSK set I received does have a notch on the backside of an 8-hole sprocket...

[KoHeartsGPA]

No synthetic and no fram filters, use Delo400 (diesel engine oil) recommended for L series.

[KoHeartsGPA]

And tell that "shop" owner that his crew is clueless and fire them ALL

[Mitchell]

This place actually has worked on many Datsuns over the years, Unfortunately the rebuild was done by the one owner/mechanic shop with a helper, it's a shop that I had done business with for over 20 years. But this isn't the first time there's ever been an issue. The owner has closed the shop fairly recently and retired. Before the rebuild I had got over 428,000 miles using 20-50 high mileage castrol motor oil.

[KoHeartsGPA]

:no:

[datzenmike]

I wouldn't run synthetic in an L series. OK on newer cars. Run it if you like but keep track of how much you spend vs. how much it uses from leaks. It would not have caused premature wear, it's good stuff just not worth the cost in older design engines.

 

 

 

Yes a D21 KA24E or KA24DE oil pump is a good idea.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Tsbaki is the chain set to get.

I swear my OSK had timming marks.Like DatzenMikes photo

 

No way the chain is streatched if it was a new one.

 

if the sprocket don't have the notch one can assume the chain is correct and use the brite links the number 2 mark on sprocket. then assume its good.

 

 dist should be close to like 11.27 position. but if you watch the vid it might take a couple times to line up right them put the dist on and see whre the rotor points and make adjustments on plate(10mm) or back side plate(8mm)

[Mitchell]

Thanks hainz! Today I removed the timing cover to double check everything. The motor was out of time, corrected that, looks exactly like datsenmikes photo now. I hadn't replaced a chain in few years and forgot the first time i opened the timing cover to be sure to have the camshaft at 10 and 2. I will close it up and finish tomorrow. The other tip, is to make sure to loosen the crankshaft bolt before removing the camshaft sprocket. Do you still prefer the black permatex silicone? I usually like to use the liquid brush on type permatex, the thick molasses looking sealer rather then silcone because it won't squeeze out into the motor. Any further thoughts on best sealer?

[KoHeartsGPA]

Post some pics of that sprocket please, maybe we'll see something you're not ;)