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d.p

My 1971 521

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I agree its going to be wild for the foreseeable future.  

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Got the pistons installed but when got finished with that I noticed the rear main seal was fubar’d.  I’m not about to take it all apart to replace It so I figure I will just replace it when I get it on a hoist or off the stand.  

 

Now I need to time it ...can someone recommend a dial gauge? Or is there some other easy way for me to time it? 

 

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I am curious as to why there are holes in the center of your pistons?
 

 

Edited by Charlie69

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No idea came like that with the engine. 

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Never seen that before.  I have seen pistons with burn holes in them.  All that matters is that it runs OK.

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2 minutes ago, Greaser2 said:

Relieves pressure 

Compression release?

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Probably for the lathe.

 

49735992781_1442d1ce09_b.jpg

 

The rear seal looks torn up.

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I know but I don’t know why or how that happened.  I have another seal and it seemed to have an issue as well.  
 

The book says to install before installing the crank so maybe that is why.  Sucks either way.   

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Did you grease it first?

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44 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Did you grease it first?


yes.  Not sure how that section got pushed out.  I have another and am wondering if I can simply take the rear main cap off and pop the other seal in?  I’ll probably have to get another set of side seals but that’s no problem.  Or can I just wait and pull/pry the rear main out and press another one in?
 

Just need to know what my options are at this point.  

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I'm sure you can pack it in from the rear. Punch a wood screw into it and yank out with pliers. My manual shows a tool that covers the seal and you hammer on the end to drive it in.

 

499409-black-diamond-xtreme-snowmobile-g

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Can’t do anything now as it’s on the stand. So I can either take the rear main out or just wait to get it off the stand and swap it then. 
 

will wait and see if I get bored enough to re-do it.  Got nothing but time for the foreseeable future.  

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Wait until it’s off the stand and install the new one that way. Just drive it in until it’s flush with the outside of the block. I’ve been meaning to buy a seal driver set for a long time. They do come in handy.

 

Also, you mention timing above. I don’t think it’s that critical that you need a dial indicator. You should be able to eyeball it at the top. Then just leave it there while you install the front cover.

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One thing I did read is the fel-pro side seals suck and that’s what I used.  So if I want to swap those out for OEM ones I would need to do it before I put the head on.  I am just going to order OEM side seals so I have options.  
 

As far as TDC my pulley is all marked and slotted so I would feel better if I could time  it as close to TDC as I can so I can mark the pulley accordingly.  Besides a dial gauge is like $30 from amazon. 

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On 11/15/2016 at 3:50 PM, banzai510(hainz) said:

Fuck a side shot might look even better but thats a awsome color!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

pull that BMW out of the garage and put this in there

I agree put the BMW outside and get the 521 inside.  Look at it this every 10000 miles you put on that BMW depriciates at least $5000, where as the datun is appreciating while you BMW deprciates. In ten years that BMW will be in the scrap yard because no auto parts houses will carry parts for it.  It is not Rocket Science!  LOL

 

What amount of depreciation did it cost you to drive your BMW of the car lot?

Edited by Charlie69

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Fuck it I pulled the rear main cap to take a look.  Also when rotating the crank it developed this weird whistle which sounded like it was coming from the rear main seal.  
 

seal looks ok to me though?  I am going to order new side seals and then install the OEM seal instead of the fel-pro.  can I use assembly lube instead of moly grease ? Or something else?  I don’t have any moly grease on hand. 
 

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Engine oil but I like grease better.

 

In the picture above. Did you put a dab of RTV in the 900 joint to the outside of the curtain seal? where the bearing cap and the block meets?

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Yes I did and along the side seals. I think for the most part I did everything right. The only thing I somewhat struggled with was getting the rear main cap in straight.  That thing is a bitch. 

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Doesn’t have to be moly. Use whatever grease you have. Probably not worth it, but I always keep a tube of Royal Purple synthetic in my grease gun. For stuff like wheel bearings, I keep a big tub handy.

Edited by mainer311
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I got a tub of bearing grease, that will do? 

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3 hours ago, d.p said:

I got a tub of bearing grease, that will do? 

Yeah.

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Side seals I got the Nissan ones and they can go in either way if I remember what they look like.They one pc design

 

i think I used a Felpro in one of my motors on the rear main.Engine builder does my lower blocks

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I ordered OEM side seals from the local dealer.  Also got another rear main just in case. 
 

these are the part numbers of anyone needs them:


12289-W0400 - Rear main side seals

12279-R4611- rear Main

 

 

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2 hours ago, d.p said:

I ordered OEM side seals from the local dealer.  Also got another rear main just in case. 
 

these are the part numbers of anyone needs them:


12289-W0400 - Rear main side seals

12279-R4611- rear Main

 

 

Should probably include these part numbers are for the L20b..... 

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